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C's short shifter came in the mail today. I compared the plastic bushing and cusco bushing and they looked to be the same. so i put the cusco one on and it is a little loose but looks like it will work. Cant wait to install this and get rid of the play.
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so the mission for this weekend was to get my hicas lock out bar on. Well i got more accomplished.
While i was waiting to use the hoist on saturday I decided to install the short shifter. When i pulled out the stock shifter i was very surprised that the shifter bushing looked brand new. The new shifter feels really good even tho i havent really tried it out much.
Before:
After:
Today I got access to the hoist finally.... When i went to go move the car all I could do was spin the tires. Since it was sitting on ice, I had a hard time moving it. After getting it unstuck, the next task was to get it on the hoist. Some 2x4s fixed that problem. First thing was to quickly swap my rear upper control arms. They were pretty easy to install and I adjusted them somewhat close to where they were at stock.
Last was the hicas lock bar install. Pulled the old actuator and put the new bar in. I didnt end up pulling all the lines and the front solenoid out, which you "dont have to" but I would still like to get rid of all the unwanted crap. For now I plugged the rear solenoid.
So that what got done this weekend, only things left to install are wideband and bung, oil sandwich plate and oil temp/pressure gauge, and nardi wheel. I also need to lower the front little bit more and take it for an alignment.
While I was installing the control arms I received a call from Dave at Speed Factor saying that they had one deep corn wheel left that they missed. Looks like i dont have to wait 5 more weeks!
Installed my new nardi deep corn wheel. I must say its a very nice piece and looks 100x better than my old wheel.
I also lowered the front a little more. Its not too much of a difference but the tires are tucking slightly more. The front coil over on the passenger side is maxed right out with the helper spring and the drivers coil has about 10 turns to go. I am happy with the way the front stance is and the rear will look better once the camber is taken away a bit.
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A few things that could be improved (if you wanted to) -
1.) BOV Flutter sound (compressor surge, not good for turbo) Isnt flutter sound while boosting bad? thought off boost was fine.
2.) Paint fuel tank matte black. yes i should do that
3.) Shortshifter can damage synchro's, well known problem (only use Nismo shifter with stock gearbox). I know crappy short shifters are bad but high quality ones like C's and nismo are fine.
4.) Change rear of exhaust (Apexi or similar rear muffler). Not sure if you saw but i have a hks titanium muffler wrapped in carbon.
Thanks for the input.
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1.) Both are surge, on boost is the worst surge. Should be like someone exhaling loudly type of sound when off boost (what you get with Synapse BOV). Flutter sound that's heard through podfilter is the turbo compressor wheel surging because BOV is not releasing properly.
2.) Or stock R32 GTR fuel tank (plastic).
3.) Nismo is made for stock gearbox.
4.) Just looks different, I guess I'm used to seeing Apexi style mufflers.
If BOV is adjustable and push type (like stock BOV, which is push type), the preload nut for spring can be adjusted to make BOV release properly.
Sometimes the BOV spring is incorrect for engine vacuum (Tial BOV's have different springs, depending on vacuum of engine and that varies with, without cams hence why spring needs to be changed).
With Synapse BOV it just worked after fitting it, no adjustments necessary.
There is an screw on the back of the ssqv but i have read mixed answers that it is just there to hold the spring in place. some say that and some say it is for adjustment. i havent adjusted it at all since i bought it so maybe that is the problem.
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Sounds like a pull type BOV (HKS SSQV). If it is, BOV vacuum hose air leaks can cause BOV to malfunction.
The spring preload adjustment on most BOV's is a bolt with nut and on top of the BOV it has a hard, soft sticker under the nut. But I think you might be correct, it's a screw on SSQV. Also make sure it's not a copy (known to cause problems).
i have a feeling it something to do with the vacuum line on the bov. i never changed it when i bough it used and it had the filter in the line. it may be restriction air flow or hose may be bad.
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The filters on HKS boost controllers are meant to be replaced every 5000km. If BOV has a filter (strange that it does) it wouldn't be any different to the boost controller filters.
The filters on HKS boost controllers are meant to be replaced every 5000km. If BOV has a filter (strange that it does) it wouldn't be any different to the boost controller filters.
The hks ssqv come with those in line filters but this one has way more than 5000kms. im gonna replace the vacuum line and see how it is then. On another note. The car will be going for an alignment next weekend and be on the road finally
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