RB20 Questions

[GTSspeed]

Hey,

I've been doing some searching but with few results. I've started tearing down my car for the winter build and I came upon a few things that I am unsure about. The previous owner kinda slapped the car together and now I get to fix all the issues (horray). My questions are as follows:

1) What is the bolt size for the coilpack cover of an rb20?

2) Does anyone know the part number or even the name of the crank angle sensor arm? I removed the cam gear cover only to discover that the solid arm which bolts to the engine is cracked. I'm sure I can run the car without it (have been so far) but I'd like to get a replacement if I can.

3) What does everyone use for painting the rocker cover, cam gear cover and coilpack cover? I'm looking for a nice deep red and I've been into Canadian tire but I don't always trust what they suggest.

4) I would love to eventually change the head gasket for a metal one and put in some ARP headstuds while I'm at it. Is it best to remove the engine from the car? Or can I get at it without too much blood? haha

5) Does anyone know the part numbers for the tensioner, tensioner spring, etc for changing the timing belt? I'm going to do all the belts and I might as well do the works while I'm in there.

6) I have a Greedy BOV installed on the car but I never realized how many vac hoses run through the car. Do you still have the stock BOV (on the J-pipe) running if you have an aftermarket one? If not, do you just remove and/or block the lines or what's the general procedure for that?

I really appreciate all the help from everyone. I'm sure some of these have been answered before but I gotta ask. Sorry for all the questions, might as well put them all in one spot. Oh and for the record, the car is a 91 HCR32.

Cheers

[Skym]

1.) Don't know. Would like to know myself.

2.) Do you mean the CAS sensor mounting? bracket, that I think is behind camcover???

3.) Duplicolour or VHT paint. I think R31 GTS-R (RB20DET-R) red cam covers are a cherry red.

4.) Can be done with engine in car. Also need Nissan repair gasket kit and replace exhaust studs (could snap due to heat / age when removing or installing manifold), intake studs, skim head, check + skim manifolds, leak test head, etc.

5.) Yes, but should find them in this thread -

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech/5249-compatible-parts-list-gts-t-type-m.html

If you do, I recommend you change cam oilseals x2, front crank oil seal, waterpump, idler, tensioner bearings (including tensioner? mounting bolt, as can snap due to heat / age), cambelt.

6.) Mount aftermarket BOV where stock BOV was or is at this moment in time on your car.

Sounds like the heavier Series 2 HCR32, but supposedly has better side intrusion beams in doors, spring on coilpack instead of spring + piece on end of spring, grey? textured stereo surround plastic piece (black colour on Series 1), etc.

[GTSspeed]

Skym to the rescue haha. I think the car is a series 2 but I will look into that. As for the CAS, yes I did mean the mounting bracket and I'm going to try to find a used one because I have no idea what the Nissan part number is.

Does ARP make studs for the exhaust and intake? I know they make head studs but is it common practice to use ARP for everything?

When you say 'skim head' do you mean get it refinished/machine the head before installing a new head gasket?

I really wish I could find the bolt size for the coilpack cover. Anyone willing to take out a bolt and measure it for me? I'd love you forever haha.

[TheyKilledKenny]

Alot of guys used ARP studs for both head studs and exhaust side in their builds. ARP studs cut down on head lift by reducing stud stretching. Im about to pop in some ARP head studs in mine.

Yes skimming is removing material to make the surface perfectly flat and true again. Very good idea, had mine done.

[m_melen]

i used these guys for my timing belt tensioner pulley, spring, and idler pulley. you might also consider doing the water pump while you're in there, it's not too expensive either.

http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=821

[GTSspeed]

Alright sounds good. I'll have to start ordering some parts. I'm sure I'll have more questions once this build really gets going. Thanks for the help with everything. Anyone suggest anywhere I might be able to get the block skimmed in Edmonton?

I hate to ask the cheap question but...Is skimming 'required' before putting in a new head gasket or just 'recommended'? I have a feeling I already know the answer haha.

Still looking for the coilpack bolt size.

Cheers

[TheyKilledKenny]

I would say its not "as" necessary with the stock head gasket, but if youre gonna use a metal one get it machined for sure.

[Skym]

If engine has overheated or run hot in the past (up to 110 degrees coolant temp) it can slightly warp the head. Also skimming can even up the squish area's in head that are not always even at factory. This helps with tuning engine, as compression is more even between cylinders. Common procedure on high hp V8's.

If you run a ruler across the head diagionally, you shouldn't see any daylight between deck of head, ruler. On a warped head, you can see daylight.

[GTSspeed]

I'm not sure if the engine has been run hot in the past but I have heard of using a ruler to check to head. I am planning on running a metal head gasket although I'm sure it's not fully necessary for the 250-270 whp I'm shooting for. It's probably not a bad idea from a reliability stand point.

First as foremost is a compression test for the engine (hope to see some good numbers). Does everyone just use a standard compression test for each cylinder or have you heard of anyone doing a pressure drop down test?

[Skym]

That's why most get it checked (crack test, etc), skimmed, as history of engine is unknown. With rebuild, would skim the block as well. But being a iron block it would take more than 110 degrees coolant temp to warp it. Can crack block by running cold water through hot block. Dry, wet (to check ring seal) compression tests.

[GTSspeed]

HAHA....Victory!!

.....Sort of

I managed to pull the rocker covers and I discovered that the thread size for the coilpack cover is 10-32. As for length I figure 1/2" will work (or similar in metric size). I will also go with socket heads although I'm sure the original bolts were shoulder screws but I'm not going down that endless path. Something polished will look quite nice I think.

I have another question which I'm sure has been covered in the past but I'm going to bring it up again. My turbo does not seem to be making boost at any RPM. I started the engine the other day and after a few minutes we were getting white smoke from the exhaust (or blue, could be burning oil). The BOV seemed to be venting continuously but that could have also been air from the fan. The boost gauge wouldn't creep up at all but the turbo sure was whining. I pulled the dump pipe and the compressor wheel is not broken.

Any suggestions as to what might be the issue? Could be a leak due to the improper dual BOVs in the car? Any other thoughts? If the one BOV is stuck open, shouldn't there still be enough air getting through to gain boost?