What could this be? attached video

[gtrjon]

From the videos I dont think there is any doubt about it. It seriously sounds like rod knock. Makes sense if the diagram was wrong the engine was starved and you spun a bearing or two. If i was you at this point i wouldnt even mess with "trying to make the knock go away" and ill pull her before you do more damage. Best of luck!

[amnash]

it sucks, the engine was like brand new looking too compression was 160 on all 6 and all. given the good compression, could i re-use piston rings and basically just replace headgasket and bearings?.. strictest budget build ever

[gtrjon]

Best case senario sure. But honestly when its already knocking like it is you're going to be lucky if your crank doesnt need to be machined along with a hone at the very least.

[Skym]

Take photo's of how it's installed before doing anything.

To check if it's correctly installed, look at the remote filter block / sandwich plate itself and note where the oil would go into and out of oil filter (in through the many holes on outside of oil filter and out through middle of oil filter).

If have oil starvation, the first thing to go would be turbo, then engine. But it does sound like rod knock in videoclips. Rod knock can sound like a hammer on metal sound if bearings are totally destroyed. Compressor wheel on turbo touching compressor housing can sound similar (knocking sound).

[SlidingSideways]

Dude You've ha SH1TTY luck with skylines...
I hope it's nothing too major

Good luck

[NismoS-tune]

New engine was initially installed without an oil cooler? Ouch... If I remember right, inversed oil cooler lines will act as a blocked check valve (in the block I think there is one) and starve the oil feed.

Knock Knock.

Who's there?

Rod.
Rod who?
Rod knock!


....... Sorry, Too early?

I feel for you. I had 1200 km on my new engine when my friends were sending me "walk crank walk" pictures

[NismoS-tune]

ya you have it correct. i remember hearing how some people don't like the greddy coolers because if you smash the cooler, the debris (if any) doesnt pass though the filter before it enters back into the engine.

Uh, all coolers with thermostats (includes HKS and some other big names) filters before the cooler, not after... So you're sol unless you make your own sadly.

[amnash]

so i reconnected the lines and put all the spark plugs in and piping and tryed one last time with no success.. sounds the same and wont start. while helping it idle using the throttle for a couple seconds the oil pressure was about 30psi much lower then norm. its kind of sounds like its coming from the turbo side of the engine, so i removed the intake and the exhaust to check the turbines and they seem fine can this confirm that its not the turbo? or could the turbo bearings go and the turbines still be fine?
would the turbo bearings cause the oil pressure to be so low and engine not to run?

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

Blew the bearings in my old RB25 turbo I had in my GTS4, car ran fine out of boost. As soon as it spooled it would howl and the compressor and exhaust wheels were untouched. Was able to drive the car home with no issue, just a little smoke. Never lost a pound of oil pressure either. From the sounds of it, the others are probly right. With massive oil starvation the bearings don't stand a chance.
Shitty luck man, hope it turns out good.

[amnash]

ahh fml i feel so defeated.

so I might as well change this thread and start planning for the rebuild. clearly poor as f**ck right now, just installed this swap costing about 3000 total everything bought/done so i would like to keep this build as basic as possible.

with the engine removed and on a stand, i should be able to even leave the head attached shouldn't I? i was thinking on doing that, then just removing the crank leaving the pistons in the cylinders, get the crank checked, then install some std. size bearings for rods and mains and bolt together.

does that sound like the dumbest plan ever or is it actually possible?
im assuming you never reuse bearings even if they look fine? (thinking only a rod bearing went)
im assuming its st. size bearings needed, oem engines built with std. size i think? and if i dont do any machining, then shoud be able to install same size bearings?

[amnash]

need help figuring out what bearings. going through acl bearing catalog ive found the rb25det but i thought the neo was a bit different and had rb26 rods? so do i go with the rb26 rod bearings? luckily the main bearings apear to be the same between the rb20,25,26 so that makes it easy. just looking for some concrete information on what rod bearings to get.

next is the bearing sizes. the std. size bearings dont acually say what size they are.. so the plus 0.025,0.25,or 0.5 means added on top of what value??

[amnash]

to determine if i need a line hone, can i just install new bearings and crank, torque to spec, and rotate the crank? if if turns nice and evenly smooth it means no line hone needed? or more in depth then that?

also, is it ok to install then remove the bearings a couple times torquing things down to check for clearances?? i was thinking you wanted to avoid dissembling of bottom end once thing are torqued down..or can you assemble, dissemble, reassemble as many times as you want and things will be ok?

[Voodoo_ChildR32]

I would think the more times you torque things, the more they're going to stretch.


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[craftz]

You said your compression was 160 across the board, have you checked it after the engine started acting up? Even with wicked knock the engine should still run but make alot of noise. Yours won't even idle, right? Check compression and get back.

[amnash]

ok I found the piece of paper with the compression test from the install. it was more like 170 on all 6 cylinders.
just tested now and its like 180 on all six even one 185. its like the rings were still sealing. I think the kms were under 50000 km it looked so clean/stock. such a.shame.
prepping engine for removal now.