What could this be? attached video

[craftz]

I am really going way out on this one but I would hate to see you rip down the engine for nothing. Check timing belt, tensioner and spring. It could be total coincidence that something wierd happened here after you did the oil cooler job. Your motor running so shitty points to something other than knock, I have heard other engines with rod knock and piston slap and they still run smooth.

[NismoS-tune]

I am really going way out on this one but I would hate to see you rip down the engine for nothing. Check timing belt, tensioner and spring. It could be total coincidence that something wierd happened here after you did the oil cooler job. Your motor running so shitty points to something other than knock, I have heard other engines with rod knock and piston slap and they still run smooth.

Maybe it's timing belt knock! Haha

I remember some time ago my alternator bolt fell out and my alternator would flop around and make a similar knock sound but the car ran and drive fine, just noisy knock.

Check your stuff like he said but it's a pretty distinctive sound. Unfortunately, if it really is a spun bearing, the more you run it ( or try to start it) the more things will get damaged.

[amnash]

the oil in it was new and when drained it definatly looked a little off. ran a magnet threw it and got a couple tiny pieces of metal

[craftz]

Yea, I know I was pretty far off in left field, the off oil and metal in it throws something else into the equation. I just can't understand why it runs so rough.

[Skym]

Use a mechanics stethoscope and listen for where sound is coming from.

I have seen a stock RB26 that destroyed 5th, 6th bottomend bearings, thrust bearing. Must of had a crank walk problem due to clutch that was too strong (tripple? plate clutch).

Maybe it's timing belt knock! Haha

Knocked a tooth out.

[amnash]

Yea, I know I was pretty far off in left field, the off oil and metal in it throws something else into the equation. I just can't understand why it runs so rough.

voodo guy said "That looks like an rb25 right? If so, the cam phaser in the intake side may be to blame. If oil pressure is lost or too low it will adversely affect the phaser's position thus giving you incorrect valve timing"
so im thinking, spun bearing loss of pressure changes timing so engine wont even run as a safety shut down? makes sense to me, i drove the rb20 home with a spun bearing lol

[amnash]

im committed now. engine is ready to be pulled. just need a crane and buddy to get it out.

[amnash]

can anyone say if these parts will work with the rb25

arp rod bolts 202-6007

http://www.frsport.com/ARP-202-6007-Nissan-RB26DETT-Rod-Bolt-Kit_p_27104.html

and im stuck between two sets of piston rings, are they the exact same? (nissan says theyre both bad part numbers)

12033-AA110 (neo specific)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-12033-AA110-OEM-Piston-Rings-RB25DET-86mm-RB25-R34-NEO-RB-/181049104079?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2a275e16cf&ssPageName=RSS:B:STORE:US:101

12033-21U10 (regular rb25)

http://www.frsport.com/Nissan-Genuine-OEM-Piston-Rings-Set-RB25DET_p_18630.html

if i can use the rings from frsport would be nice because im getting gasket kit from them and bolts so ill ask for discount or free shipping

[NismoS-tune]

Use a mechanics stethoscope and listen for where sound is coming from.

I have seen a stock RB26 that destroyed 5th, 6th bottomend bearings, thrust bearing. Must of had a crank walk problem due to clutch that was too strong (tripple? plate clutch).



Knocked a tooth out.

I had crank walk but never really figured it out. My clutch was a twin carbonetic but only 1100kg force. The clutch adjustments were suspected as the issue but all checked out. The only thing that came to mind was possibly bad thrust clearances or the 11 starts with the clutch fully in... was fine before that.

[amnash]

ok so ive found out why it wouldnt run. the timing belt has jumped 4 teeth on the exhaust cam. with the oil pan removed, all the rods look good and feel solid so im happy about that. the timing belt had one tooth that was cracked and looked like it folded over (was new belt).
so now i have to try figure out what happened. i can turn both cams by hand and both tensioner and idler pulleys look fine.

gonna do a leak down test while the cam covers are off to double check the valves again (had 180 compression on all 6 but exhaust cam was off by 4 teeth)

and the milky off looking oil, to check that gonna pressurize coolant system and look for leaks.

[MarusGTR]

*whistle* now how the hell did that happen? (and I suddenly got paranoid about my new belt)

[amnash]

i have no idea. the exhaust cam must have seized up for a second.. something to do with the momentary oil starvation maybe??
im just glad the bottom end looks ok i didnt actually remove the girdle though to check the bearings, just made sure the rods where still nice and tight on the crank. should i unbolt the girdle and check out the bearings and if all looks good just bolt back on? can i reuse main bolts?

any ideas why the belt would jump like that?

[NoLimit0596]

yes you can reuse your bolt make sure you torque at oem spec

[amnash]

would I be able to one at a time, do same thing with the rods? at least that way bottom half of all bearings will get a look(better then nothing) and I'll plastigauge everything too.

and use red threadlocker when putting rods back together

EDIT: never mind, fsm says rod bolts need 60~65 angle wrench so theyre stretch. ill just check the mains.

[amnash]

small update.
main caps were removed and everything seems fine, a bit of wear on bearings but oil clearances were still good.
gave all the rods a tap with a rubber mallet and they all seem fine no movement.
took the intake manifold and exhaust manifold off to look at the valves from behind and they all look new, no damage.
did a leak down test and this is what i got:
#1 - 4%
#2 - 7%
#3 - 9%
#4 - 9%
#5 - 8%
#6 - 4%

bolting everything back together and gonna just start it up and see how it goes. put my spare turbo on, new timing belt, tensioner/stud