Best Option To Reach Reliable 450-500 HP

[PH_Motorsports]

Current/Building Platform:
1989 R32 GTR ,
Clean all around, Work Equip 17 x 9 Rims, RB26DETT -160,000km
Tein Suspension all around, Front Strut Bar, M’s boost controller, Turbo timer, Mines Ecu, Adjustable Cam gears, Maybe upgraded Camshaft (haven’t checked), HKS Intake,
Trust 3” Exhaust. New Genuine Nissan cross-drilled rotors and HPS pads all around
Car seems to Run and Pull Strong – All tranny gears are smooth except 4th has a little grind when pushing the car.(up shifting or down shifting)
- I never red line the car, because it’s 15+ years old. But I have pushed it a couple times, and now i know i want more HP. 350hp just isn’t enough for me and the car.
Car has a couple exterior dents… the underside of the car shows like brand new !!!


Option 1
Build Stock Motor
- Upgrade Oil/Water Pump to N1 or Nismo or Greddy/Trust/Tomei
- Upgrade Camshaft Depending
- Upgrade from Stock Intercooler just core
- Upgrade Injectors, Fuel Pump
- Oil Filer Relocation
- Maybe Oil cooler unit
- Turbo upgrade - unsure to stay twin or go single
- Exhuast Manifold depending on turbo upgrade
- Tranny Upgrade
- Ecu

This could be the cheapest option, I don’t know the cost for the oil/water pumps + install though… The negative of this option is that the condition of the internals is not a 100% confirmed safe and strong.

Option 2
Buy a crate motor

R34 NUR: $6999 rebuilt (bare engine assembly)
R33 N1: $5999 rebuilt (bare engine assembly)
Standard R34: $5999 rebuilt (bare engine assembly)

- Sell old RB26 Unit minus the accessories to complete the swap
- Upgrade injectors , fuel pump
- Turbo upgrade - unsure to stay twin or go single
- Exhuast Manifold depending on turbo upgrade
- Upgrade Intercooler
- Tranny Upgrade
- Ecu

Down side of this setup is cost factor ( but you gotta pay to play )
Plus – peace in mind that your internals are solid and should be able to rack on the km’s, if everything is driven properly and maintained. Dont need to pay for new upgrade oil/water pumps!!

Option 3 & 4 are unknown at the moment

Please provide me with informative feedback, thanks in advance

[Neal]

from someone who has been through it... option 2 is much better...

if i had to do it again i would have done option 2... less headaches worries... and may actually be cheaper in the end when everything is said and done..

[Bruizer]

Buy a crate motor

R34 NUR: $6999 rebuilt (bare engine assembly)
R33 N1: $5999 rebuilt (bare engine assembly)
Standard R34: $5999 rebuilt (bare engine assembly)

Hi there, where are you getting these quotes from? I'll like to check out that source for my rebuild

[Connor]

The problem is, what do you feel is worth while when you are in there? A crate motor won't have a Nismo oil pump, metal head gasket, upgraded cams and valvetrain and so forth. you will still need to buy and install that stuff yourself. If you are only looking for stock bottom end power, then maybe buy a new short block, but i don't see you saving much money there over rebuilding the one you have. Ask the others on this board who have done it: 500whp will cost you in the neighbourhood of 20 grand. I'm into mine for more than ten for parts alone and I'm not done yet since I got stuff like the nismo oil pump, sump baffle, front LSD and a bunch of other stuff you don't need for a basic rebuild but might as well add or change with the engine out. Buy a crate engine if you are happy with the power you have now, maybe a bit more. It'll make the car a nice driver but the cost of labor is still included in that, so if you pay someone to install the parts YOU want in YOUR engine, it will be more worth while.

[Bruizer]

The problem is, what do you feel is worth while when you are in there? A crate motor won't have a Nismo oil pump, metal head gasket, upgraded cams and valvetrain and so forth. you will still need to buy and install that stuff yourself. If you are only looking for stock bottom end power, then maybe buy a new short block, but i don't see you saving much money there over rebuilding the one you have. Ask the others on this board who have done it: 500whp will cost you in the neighbourhood of 20 grand. I'm into mine for more than ten for parts alone and I'm not done yet since I got stuff like the nismo oil pump, sump baffle, front LSD and a bunch of other stuff you don't need for a basic rebuild but might as well add or change with the engine out. Buy a crate engine if you are happy with the power you have now, maybe a bit more. It'll make the car a nice driver but the cost of labor is still included in that, so if you pay someone to install the parts YOU want in YOUR engine, it will be more worth while.

So in your opinion, which engine would be better as a start? the one that's in the car right now (passes compression, biggest issue is oil leaks), or are the R34 better quality blocks? I've never really known the engine difference. From what you say either way a rebuild is in need no matter which way you go for outputs over 450.

-Franc

[mcfly]

option 1.

cheaper, stronger and better.


option 2 means you still have to open the engine up and change rod bolts at a minimum.

[Connor]

I'm with Mcfly. I apologize if that wasn't clear. You likely don't need to rebuild the engine to MAKE 450-500hp, but you should if you want to keep it in one piece for any length of time. You did say "Reliable". My car has 162k on it and the rear seal went in May, so with engines as worn as ours, might as well rebuild it.

[Bruizer]

So out of all the RB26 available, the blocks have the same strength minus the change in parts? Would it be stronger using a 1998 Rb26 vs a 1989 is what I mean lol.

[Joker]

I heard the 1989 blocks were the strongest. More nickel in the block.

[6ix]

I heard the 1989 blocks were the strongest. More nickel in the block.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNymFmxyG38

tells the differences

[Joker]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dNymFmxyG38
tells the differences

What does that have to do with my comment? I'm talking about a stock non-N1/Nismo block. I've heard the 89 RB26 is stronger than the newer ones. Granted the R34 has a better torque curve but it's the crank not the block?

Maybe I'm way off but if your building a stock GTR up (not putting a brand new N1 engine in) is older not better?

[skyline_steve]

I have read quite a few articals talking about the 89 have a stonger block for the higher nickel content,im fact i have posted about this stonger block topic on here and the UK site aswell and the consensis is that they are stronger.i have picked up a 89 gtr block for the motor build i am doing.i payed a bit more for it but o well some good motor builders have said that they are.
also i watched the video and did not really here them mention anything about the block quality i may have just missed it though.

[tokes]

This is what I'm doing for my build, and I hope to god it's rock solid for about 550 WHP, maybe a bit more. Wingnut made 530 on smaller turbos and stock cams, so maybe even 600 on pump gas is within reason

• Stock 1989 GTR Block Prepped
• 86.5mm CP 8.5:1 Pistons
• Eagle Connecting Rods
• ACL Race Bearings
• JUN Oil Pump + Collar
• ATI Race Dampener
• NISMO oil sump
• Tomei cylinder head oil restrictor
• Desynz Motorsports oil drainback
• New OEM Gasket Kit
• ARP Head Studs
• Tomei 260/260 Poncams
• New Valves/Guides/Seats
• Cometic 1.2mm HG
• 1000cc Injectors
• PTE 24x12x4 Intercooler
• Metal Charge Piping
• AEM EMS
• Deleted MAFs/5 bar MAP sensor
• Tial 50mm BOV
• Trust Elbows/Downpipes
• Test Pipe
• Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
• OS Giken Race Twin Plate
• Nismo front LSD

Turbos are gonna be GT2871R's. Basically I want to make ~550 WHP on pump gas and be able to drive it all summer without it breaking down on me, and have it be reliable enough to drag race, road race, etc, without issue. I figure I might as well just suck it up and drop a ton of cash once, rather than half-assing it and doing it again later when it breaks. FWIW, the cost of my built motor (minus the additional **** like exhaust, bov, AEM, etc that I'd have to do anyways) is probably going to clock in at LESS money than a new N1 NUR motor, that's including the cams, oil drainback mods, and better forged internals. Shipping a motor in one big chunk is a LOT of cash from Japan.

[mcfly]

I heard the 1989 blocks were the strongest. More nickel in the block.

early rb26's have a higher nickel content.
comparable to that of a n1 block they say.

if you want the strongest you buy a GT block, good luck though, they are as rare as hks high deck blocks and fetch one hell of a penny.

[GTR-Dad]

This is what I'm doing for my build, and I hope to god it's rock solid for about 550 WHP,
[*]New OEM Gasket Kit[/LIST]

Nice list! One of these things just doesn't belong though... You'll want to go full metal for head (good job on the Cometic HG), intake and exhaust gaskets.

Dan