crzyone's "project" car

[Willis]

A few small updates

Interior is now stripped, and I will be working on removing the rubberized sound deadening with dry ice and a hammer or screw driver.







I also removed the washer bottle. It freed up a lot of room for the intakes, and they have a straight shot of cold air while moving.

[Willis]

Ok, another small update.

20lbs of dry ice and 3-4 hours of tedious work later-





After all that was one there was still a lot of cleanup to do. I used some bug and tar remover and did a little cleanup.






Still far from done but getting there.

Interior starting to look more like a race car.






The plan this winter is to get the car ready for next race season. FIA approved racing seat, weld in cage, and all the safety gear needed. Also going to need some brakes, still undecided on what to get.

I will update as I progress

[BeeGTR]

Nice Car!

If your looking for Ideas I put the same fuel tank in my car. If I could do it again, I would get a custom tank built. I added some weight mounting it. Also make sure you take out the fill cap and pull the foam out and clean it up inside. Mine had chunks of metal in the sump that the pump would have picked up. Also the foam was not put in right, so it was stacked and wouldn't have done anything.

Also look into getting baffels welded in. I have stalled my car a few times drifting on a half tank. There is only one baffle, and its at the front of the tank to try and stop the fuel from leaving the S/U. I had to get an aftermarket 80omhs unit for it to read right. Still when I step on it the gauge goes down to half.

If your not drifting you might be ok without baffels, but on a low tank your going to stall on a corner. Bad news about installing baffels is your going to have to cut the top of the tank off to weld them in, then get the tank LPI'd and pressure tested to ensure you got not leaks.

Last problem is the vent. It has the ballbearing in it, but it doesn't do much. I had the vent ran down below the car and left wide open, and when the tank was full I slammed on the breaks and dumps a few liters of fuel on the ground (glad it didn't catch fire). So I ended up reducing it down and running to to stock check valve which runs to the charcol canister. Prob could run it with just the check valve open ended, or run the vent line straight up off the tank for at least a foot before running it down.

Hope it helps. Check out my build if your looking for ideas. I overbuild things so some stuff isn't going to be applicable.

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthread.php?t=30683

[Willis]

Thanks for that info but I won't be keeping this fuel cell for long. I will need one that is FIA certified for the type of racing that I want to do.

http://www.fuelsafe.com/pdf/road_race.pdf

I will need a bladder type cell for my car, the entry level one that most people use is pretty affordable.

I've read your build thread, good work. We will have to meet up one of these days.

[CYKr33]

just read up on this build, cant wait to see it in person

[MakCustomsProject]

Your car looks great! Looks like everything fits well! Got a thing for blue eh!?

IMO you should keep the car "spoiler-less" it looks really clean without one, and for some reason I find it makes the car look much lower to the ground. You said you were going to track this car?? In that case your right about having a wing.

Nice car Keep the updates coming!!

[Willis]

Spring time, have some updates. Thanks for the compliments!

I am turning this car into a race car and have been busy.

AMS R33 V-Spec 2 piece rotor upgrade for the front and brand new AMS rear slotted rotors. We'll see how they deal with brake fade, may have to upgrade further.



I have an 8 point weld in roll cage being built as we speak, and the current progress is posted on my builders blog.

http://somuchwinracing.blogspot.com/2010/03/g-t-yar.html

http://somuchwinracing.blogspot.com/2010/04/g-t-yar-round-2.html

So, I will be getting a re-tune soon, going to shoot for 25psi, maybe 500awhp.

I know you said it looks good without a wing, but it is a race car and I just ordered a 67" wide wing. I will post pics when I have it mounted on the car.

I will update soon, lots of parts rolling in. FIA approved racing seat, cage padding, battery relocation, windshield retainer tabs, side exit exhaust, 5 or 6 point harness, CCW Classic racing wheels, etc etc etc. In a few months the car will be a complete track monster. I cant wait to race it!

[So_Much_Win]

more pics on the blog . cage is done now . just getting painted and the interior put back in feed back / questions are always welcome .

Joel M.

[Willis]

Sooo, got the car back, have some pics

Outside view with new wing installed


67" is just perfect. This car is wiiiide


Cage view from outside the car


Painted interior with my new NRG quick release steering wheel. Without it getting in and out of the car is damn near impossible. Don't mind the dangling turbo timer lol.. it needs to be properly mounted adter the dash was re-installed.


I think it looks pretty badass






So a few things to finish up such as putting an aluminum sheet over the inner doors to cover up all the sharp edges. I am very happy with the cage, the guys did an awesome job. I will be taking it back to them when I'm ready to install the hooks for window nets, helmet and steering wheel hangers etc. Their decal will be going on my car as well as soon as they have it made.

[TW]

That is badass, the white looks epic.

Well done

[Oakville]

I dont think there is anything quite as sexy as a single-seated Skyline.

[Willis]

Thanks guys. I will have an FIA approved racing seat soon and a harness.

Going to be swapping out the Apexi FC for a ViPec from lightspeed innivations. I'll post results when I get them. The ecu has been ordered and as soon as it gets here I'll be on a dyno getting it tuned.

Looking forward to speed density instead of MAFs.

[Willis]

Well after a long period of wanting nothing to do with my GTR, I'm finally in the mood to talk about it and get her running again.

Last spring I took my GTR out for the first drive and was in heaven after waiting a long winter to drive it again. After about an hour and only 1 WOT pull I started to hear a weird sound from the engine. It sounded like a tapping sound which got louder and louder. I was close to home and drove the car into my driveway and shut it down.

I didn't know what to make of the sound, so I didn't run my engine unless I absolutely had to. The tapping sound came from the head, so I assumed it had to be valve train related.

Before I got my engine looked at, I had a pair of FIA approved race seats that I needed to install in the car with custom modified seat rails. I used the same guys that built my cage, somuchwin.ca and they did another excellent job. They also installed my window net. My car will be primarily a track car with limited street use (too much temptation to feel boost).







So after the seats were installed I hauled my car to lightspeed to have the engine looked at. After a few weeks of sitting there I started to ask when my car would be looked at. The same day they pulled the valve covers and said one of my cam caps came off, another one of them had a broken bolt and there was some damage. Great. So I gave them the go-ahead to pull the engine to repair the head and look for debris in the oil pan.

A picture of a damaged cam cap they sent me.


Tuner car waiting room. Dan's (GTR Dad's) car in the background.


After over 2 months of no action on the car I decided to bring the car home. It was September, race season pretty much over so I thought I'd take it apart over winter to save some cash. I wasn't in a hurry anymore.

It wasn't until October 8th that I decided to pull the cam covers and have a look for myself. I'm not going to draw any conclusions or accuse anyone of anything but I'll show what I found.

This is the style of cam cap I have in my engine, and they are not numbered.



When I opened up the engine, I noticed I7 was missing????



No apparent damage to either head or cam....?



So I didn't know what to make of the damaged I6 cam cap that was sent to me. Since my engine was rebuilt with forged internals I don't know if a cam cap was replaced or not. If it was replaced and not line honed I guess it could be the culprit. Like I said, I’m not drawing any conclusions.

So after a few more months I finally felt like working on the car again. I have an RX7 project car as well so it was more interesting to me at the time. Now I have the GTR itch back.

Off came the front bumper which wasn't being held on by much. A little mishap backing it off a trailer, I hooked the corner of the bumper on the tail light of the trailer and ripped my fender and tore the bolts out of one side of the bumper. One more thing to fix... No longer have this RX7, traded for another one.



So I learned that you can't just buy a new cam cap and install it. They are line honed from factory and are matched to the head. If you need another cam cap, you have to grab a bunch and get it machined or just get lucky with measurements. I bought a good head off another forum member pretty much for parts. I have 24 cam caps to choose from, hopefully one measures correct. Still pulling my head to take to an engine shop to get done properly.

What was supposed to be a good head was pretty much ruined in shipping. The cams were placed loosely on the head with no cam caps to hold them in place. They beat up the cam bearings pretty bad.


A lot of the cam caps were also damaged being placed in a box with the followers.

On a positive note, as soon as I showed the pictures to the seller, he promptly refunded my money and said keep the head. He said he didn't package it, so someone cost his buddy $500.


I only have a few in progress pics from then on. Here is the front end pulled apart, rad and IC off.



Head is 90% ready to be taken off. I'm building motivation to finish pulling the intake manifold. Only 2 bolts underneath are holding it on.



Table full of parts.



I found some unusual wear one of the followers. Since I have 24 spares, I'll try and find one that fits instead. Don't like this look of this. No damage to the cam lobe though?



Besides the engine repair, I have a lot of parts to install as well. Surge tank and different fuel pump setup. Getting rid of my Apexi PFC for a ViPec, FIA approved vented remote mount battery box. Vented catch can with very large ports. Larger front and rear diff covers to hold more fluid and keep it cooler. etc etc. Lots to install.



So from now until spring I will update as I upgrade and repair my car. Thanks for looking

[NismoS-tune]

mega baller lol sick build. Remind me not to try to keep up with you sir!

Note, Lightspeed's lot looks to have the same cars at the same place as more than a year ago? Old picture maybe?

Edit:
Went through the whole thread again... just baller lol I love the cage, what make if you mind my asking (don't worry, I don't plan on copying/racing/caging my car).

Out of curiousity though, why did you put the race cell in the trunk and not remove the stock tank and place the cell lower in the trunk? Won't the higher weight change the balance?

Where do you plan to race? Race city's strip or Leduc's strip? This is a low 10 car for sure

Any plans for the gearbox? unless I missed it over the last 10 mins...

[Willis]

I don't mind advertizing the cage builder. Mine was their first. somuchwin.ca built my cage and documented it. They did a few then one of the main guys went back to school so they slowed down quite a bit.

As for the cell, I always wanted it to be temporary. I plan on going to an ATI fia approved cell, cut out the floor of the trunk and mount it lower. Still going to use a swirl pot as well, just have not got there yet. Probably this summer.

I race at Stratotech north of Fort Saskatchewan and plan on racing at Namao air force base on the air strip. Probably the fastest road racing happens there, lots of long straights. Race city was shut down, but Castrol is paving their road course so I'll race there as well when it opens. I don't plan on drag racing very often, but I will set up the launch control on my ViPec and see what it will do. I kept the turbos smaller for response, but 550awhp or so should still get a decent 1/4 mile time. I'll update when I do finally drag it.







Holy crap what a job. I'd rather swap out an entire FD drivetrain then do that again. Amazing how cramed a straight 6 engine bay can be!

Anyways, head is going in to get a new cam cap fitted. Plan is to have this car on the road for race season.

I've literally spent $5k on parts and tires in the last week.

1000hp ATI dampner
Profec B boost controller
HKS brake lines
GTR torque split controller
RE-11 265/35R18 tires
Multi-port water/meth injection by Aquamist
Nismo thermostat
Greddy knockoff intake plenum (we'll see what it looks like wether I use it or not)
Tomei reinforced cam cap studs (not going through this again!)
AMS front upper adjustable control arm, AMS rear upper adjustable control arm, Driftworks complete Hicas eliminator kit, Cusco tension rods and solid subframe bushings.

Decided to put as much money into suspension as into go this year. Sold my Apexi PFC and going with ViPec so I hope have a low boost setting for road racing (300-350whp) and a high boost setting (500-550whp) to drag race or have fun with occasonally. The no lift shift and launch control should make drag racing interesting, but I will have to upgrade my front diff and possibly a set of OS Gilken gears in my transmission to handle the power. This car will be primarily for road racing, so the stock parts should be ok aside from normal wear and tear.

Hope to have this thing buttoned up by May or so to get a full summer from it.