BeeR32 build from the ground up

[BeeGTR]

-mwracing-

Thanks!, I have heard a lot of good things about the Power FC, and I like the boost controller combo. I had that problem with my WRX I got the UTEC an TUNA when I first come out, a couple of shops blew smoke up my a** about being able to tune it, then when it come down to it, they said the;ve never done one but would learn on mine. Screw that.

What is the benifit of the F-con over the Power FC that makes it worth the extra money? and thats if that shop in calgary knows how to benifit from it.

I will stop in and talk to them next time I'm in Calgary.

[BeeGTR]

id suggest a PowerFC over the hks f-con v-pro... no one in western canada can tune it.

but starting with almost 30K car. and doing this up is crazy... you should buy my MWR34 when im finished.. as a daily driver.

lol, I don't think I could just leave it as a daily driver, I would end up doing a tweak here and there, and soon enough, I would have to of the same....hehehe

[BeeGTR]

Ok finally some pics.....

here is a few of the things I've taken off: stock I/C and pluming, A/C




Fuel tank, pump and fuel level float
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trunk shots of where tank used to be, (and some rust.... )



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pics of the body kit off the car(black sharpie marks are to be cut for rear diffuser) and in the same pic are the two oil coolers I'm going to use for the front.




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pics of the lights, and the difference in size from the R32 to R34 tailights


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Current front end shots, and misc ones





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finally shot of where I'll be cutting in the rear break ducts. might change them.... the area in black will be cut out, then I'll make the back part come about 1" away from the car, and run aluminum from the front 1" lip left, to the wheel wells, then exit out the bumper

[BeeGTR]

oh and here's some of the head light pics...

[rickskylinebnr32gtrjp]

[QUOTE=BeeGTR;277563]For weight.... I have to check the WCMA rules but I'm thinking 2500lbs... I think the stock R32 is 3200lbs???? So far I have removed the A/C, most of the interior, changed the seats, dropped the stock tank and will be adding a fuel cell. Next is the HICAS, ABS, Charcol Cansitor, Removed the door guts, and complete the roll cage. I think that It will only get me to 2800lbs if I'm lucky, so I might just strip the car to the frame like that crazy thread, and only add what is needed.
QUOTE]

Have you stripped out the HICAS crap yet? If you need help with that, just let me know as every piece of HICAS is out of my car except the two big hydraulic lines that run the length of the car that are now my two fuel feed lines to my dual inlet, Tomei fuel rail.

Just so you know, the "Time Attack" versions of the TE37's are not JDM, they are stateside models only. Ever noticed how you don't see them on any Japanese owned GTR's? I personally don't like the color combination of them. Did you know you can order TE37's to any custom color you desire?

[BeeGTR]

I havn't ripped out the HICAS yet, but it is on the list of things to do. Thanks for the offer, I did find a really good write up on the removal

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthread.php?t=20736&highlight=HICAS+removal

if there's anything you can add to that it would help, but he did a good job so I think I'll be ok. the only question I have is about looping the power steering rack line; I'm going to add an aftermarket power steering cooler, and I wanna find a new power steering tank to free up room on the intake side. I want to mount the tank where the battery used to be. my question is this, is it ok to run the line from the bottom of the tank across to the new tanks location? does distance of that matter? Does the tank have to be physically higher than the power steering's pump intake? And any recomendations on tanks that will work?

I didn't know that about the rims thanks! and good idea about re-using the hydro lines for fuel! my goal is to replace every line with a braded hoses, and get screwed fittings attached to all the clamped on lines, so there will be no more leaky or blown off hoses. i found a good machine shop in edmonton that will help with that.

[Bruizer]

A/C is one of the few things I will never get rid of, unlike most. My wife will make me sell the car if I get rid of the A/C. I don't know any woman that enjoys car rides in summer with no A/C. What's the weight loss of that anyways? about 70 pounds?

[mwracing]

well was told the cheapest weight reduction kit is cardio.


cause every 100lbs you shead 1/10 of a second.

so if you run 13.55

you loose 20lbs.. and you run a 13.53.. minor but it all adds up.. plus you feel better too. healthy body, healthy mind. quicker RT

[BeeGTR]

A/C is one of the few things I will never get rid of, unlike most. My wife will make me sell the car if I get rid of the A/C. I don't know any woman that enjoys car rides in summer with no A/C. What's the weight loss of that anyways? about 70 pounds?

I didn't weight the A/C, but I think 50 pounds is more like it. I left the A/C in my pathfinder for that reason

-mwracing-

well I'm 180lbs now, so whats another 40 eh.... lol!

[BeeGTR]

OK a few more pics and discoveries.... The computer has a MINE's tuning sticker on it and still has the MINE's tape sealing it, so it looks like no one has tampered with the ECU since then. Also a "NISMO 550CC" sticker is there to. I know that I have stock injectors. I think stock injectors are 440CC???(can anyone confirm or deny?) so If that sticker is correct then the duty cycle has been change, so I could be running lean. But I'm pretty sure it was running stock boost, so there probably was a boost controller on it at one time, and judging by the amount of wires that were spliced into the ECU, things are/were tweaked. I'm going to look at my ECU pinout and see what wires were spliced, to give me a better idea, of what was tamperd with.

there is a MINE's serial number on the ECU; Does anyone know how extensive MINE's flashes are, or if there is a way to find out the history of the ECU based off the number?

BTW sorry about some of the pictures that are not clear, it's cold in my garage, I'm really going to put heat in it this summer





I've taken out more of the interior, BTW how do you get at the screws on the backside of the steering wheel around the 19mm nut behind the horn?





Is the hose on the right of the picture (just above the shifter) a heater hose?


Finally I've taken more pictures of the Seats. $1000 each including brackets sold as a pair. At this time I would rather them to be picked up

[rickskylinebnr32gtrjp]

I havn't ripped out the HICAS yet, but it is on the list of things to do. Thanks for the offer, I did find a really good write up on the removal

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/showthread.php?t=20736&highlight=HICAS+removal

if there's anything you can add to that it would help, but he did a good job so I think I'll be ok. the only question I have is about looping the power steering rack line; I'm going to add an aftermarket power steering cooler, and I wanna find a new power steering tank to free up room on the intake side. I want to mount the tank where the battery used to be. my question is this, is it ok to run the line from the bottom of the tank across to the new tanks location? does distance of that matter? Does the tank have to be physically higher than the power steering's pump intake? And any recomendations on tanks that will work?

I didn't know that about the rims thanks! and good idea about re-using the hydro lines for fuel! my goal is to replace every line with a braded hoses, and get screwed fittings attached to all the clamped on lines, so there will be no more leaky or blown off hoses. i found a good machine shop in edmonton that will help with that.

I just looked at that HICAS thread. I have done a couple of more things in my HICAS removal that are different. I got rid of the PS cooler completely. Now that HICAS isn't making the PS fluid hot, I doubt that little POS cooler will make much of a difference. But because I disconnected that cooler, re-ran the hose to go directly to the reservoir from the pump, and blocked off the rear portion of the PS pump; there is something mechanical that you have to do to the R32 PS pump. If you look at the rear of the pump you will see a cap with about 4 bolts in it. You need to remove those bolts and you will see a bearing with about 10 little individual vanes inside. Remove the vanes so the rear of the PS pump does not create anymore pressure (PS fluid or air). If you swap to an R33/34 crank pulley and PS pump you won't have to worry about this, but you also will have different size hose for your PS reservoir so I swapped my reservoir to a better working, larger Billion PS reservoir. The R32 PS reservoir hose to PS pump connection is 26mm because it splits to feed the front and rear PS pump for PS and HICAS. The R33/34 (and Billion) PS reservoir and pump use a standard 19mm hose. The R32 PS belt offset is different and sticks our farther than the R33/34 PS belt offset. That is why you must also swap the crank pulley if you swap the pump. Or you could machine a new bracket so the R33/34 pump offset would be the same as R32.

I can post some pics of my setup and you can see if you like it. I would personally keep the PS reservoir closest to the PS pump and on the turbo side of the engine. You can move the reservoir up front next to the radiator and headlight like most people do.

There is a company called Fuji Dyanamics who make the fittings to convert the HICAS hydraulic pipe fittings to a standard 6AN. I have pics of this as well.

[rickskylinebnr32gtrjp]

Most likely the Mine's ECU is just a boost up with 550cc injectors but you may be able to find out what they did by contacting the company and providing the serial number.

I believe the little air tube and sensor (notice the wires that come out of it?) in front of the shifter next to the lighter socket is some type of climate control device for the A/C and heater.

[rickskylinebnr32gtrjp]

Pics of the R34 (same as R33) PS pump and Billion PS reservoir with fabricated aluminum bracket/mount on my R32. Notice how much shorter in length the PS pump is and how there is only one hose connection on the top of the PS pump.

[BeeGTR]

Very Nice! I like the location of the PS tank! I'll have to pick one up! I think I'll go the route of keeping the stock PS pump, and just take the veins out. Unless there is a big weight savings on the R33/R34 PS pump? How tough is it to make a new mounting bracket for it? I think I'll also remove the PS cooler as well, makes sense.

[JDMCURT]

The hose on the right in your interior is for the "AUTO" function for the climate control.

You may have a few wires splcied from your ecu if Bee*R used their rev limiter.
You'll probably have to check the pinouts though cause i dont know which ones are used for an RB26 ecu.

Looking good though Nick, keep us updated!