BeeR32 build from the ground up

[rickskylinebnr32gtrjp]

Very Nice! I like the location of the PS tank! I'll have to pick one up! I think I'll go the route of keeping the stock PS pump, and just take the veins out. Unless there is a big weight savings on the R33/R34 PS pump? How tough is it to make a new mounting bracket for it? I think I'll also remove the PS cooler as well, makes sense.

I am not sure how much weight savings there is between the R32 and R33/34 PS pumps...I could take a guess at maybe 5~10lbs? You will also free up some space by using the smaller PS pump.

Someone with good fabricating skills and a machine shop could make a custom mounting bracket for the R33/34 PS pump to match the R32 PS pump belt offset. If you were thinking about upgrading the crank pulley anyway, use the R33/34 ATI or Saurus crank pulley/damper and swap to the R33/34 PS pump with stock bracket.

[BeeGTR]

Just to reclarify I would buy a R33/R34 ATI crank damper pulley (not the R32) buy a R33/R34 PS pump and us the stock R32 PS bracket right? Would I have to get a new timing belt?

I like that alot better cause I was going to buy a R32 ATI crank damper pulley anyway. I'm tired of my car trying to take off like an airplane whenever I step on the gas:drive:

[rickskylinebnr32gtrjp]

Just to reclarify I would buy a R33/R34 ATI crank damper pulley (not the R32) buy a R33/R34 PS pump and us the stock R32 PS bracket right? Would I have to get a new timing belt?

I like that alot better cause I was going to buy a R32 ATI crank damper pulley anyway. I'm tired of my car trying to take off like an airplane whenever I step on the gas:drive:

Close...With the 33/34 crank damper and R33/34 PS pump, use the R33/34 bracket that comes with the pump (if you can get them together). They all need to match.

[BeeGTR]

Close...With the 33/34 crank damper and R33/34 PS pump, use the R33/34 bracket that comes with the pump (if you can get them together). They all need to match.

ohhh..... thanks! any idea of where I can find the PS pump/ bracket combo? or seperatly? And if it's a smaller crank damper do I need the 33/34 timing belt?

Thanks you have been a big help, along with everyone on this site:-D It has really been saving me a lot of trial and error!

[rickskylinebnr32gtrjp]

ohhh..... thanks! any idea of where I can find the PS pump/ bracket combo? or seperatly? And if it's a smaller crank damper do I need the 33/34 timing belt?

Thanks you have been a big help, along with everyone on this site:-D It has really been saving me a lot of trial and error!

I don't know of anyone selling an R33/34 PS pump and bracket off the top of my head. But I will ask around. That is how I got mine. Also, you might want to post a "Want To Buy" add on forums where Skyline owners frequent.

The timing belt has nothing to do with the PS parts. And all timing belts for RB26 fit the same.

[BeeGTR]

I've found an R33 PS pump on RHDJapan......$800 without the bracket, which they don't sell. I'm going to try and find a used one. otherwise I'm going to modify mine, cause I can't justify a $1000+ to save 10lbs at this point.

[Daryl @ RightDrive]

I've found an R33 PS pump on RHDJapan......$800 without the bracket, which they don't sell. I'm going to try and find a used one. otherwise I'm going to modify mine, cause I can't justify a $1000+ to save 10lbs at this point.

If you end up needing the pump and bracket I can get both for you. Just let me know.

[rickskylinebnr32gtrjp]

I've found an R33 PS pump on RHDJapan......$800 without the bracket, which they don't sell. I'm going to try and find a used one. otherwise I'm going to modify mine, cause I can't justify a $1000+ to save 10lbs at this point.

That's downright ROBBERY! I paid $40 dollars for mine here in Japan for a used one...got the bracket for free. I bet the price from Nissan for a brand new one is half or less of what RHDJapan CROOKS are charging.

It's not just saving 10lbs...it's also saving space and being able to easily use a universal PS reservoir. Also since the R32 PS pump has a longer shaft, it is more prone to failure than the shorter R33/34 PS pump is.

[BeeGTR]

Good to hear that it's not the going rate for the pump....uke:

Thanks Rick! Good to know that about the pump.

-Daryl_at_JDM_Speed-

How much for the pump and bracket with a good belt shipped to Edmonton? Is it worth anthing to you for my stock one back?

Mines also replied to me with the following information

"The number you kindly attached shows the following things:

1. Removed the Speed Limiter

2. Reset the injection and ignition timing

3. Expanded the rpm from 8000 upto 8300 within the Rev Limiter

4. This VX-ROM is for R32GT-R, RB26DETT, MT, the vehicle year(August, 1989 -
September, 1991)

Hope this might help you.
Mine's"

So next will be to check into the spliced wires, prob the Bee*R rev limiter like Curt said.

[BeeGTR]

Ok, got some updates, and new parts..... Steering wheel quick release, new keys, Engine/Injector wiring harness, HICAS lock bar




I pulled off the steering wheel, not realizing that you need a puller to take it off without trying to strong arm it. here's the $15 kit that worked fine






I ran into a problem tho; I can't figure out how the plate from the factory hook's up to the new one. I was told that I have the right piece, but It looks like the gold contact on the new extension needs to be larger to touch the piece that supply's the power to the horn?? Do I need the steering wheel position sensor if I take out the ABS and HICAS?

[BeeGTR]

I also pulled out the drivers side lock cylinder to get new keys cut. Mills Nissan can't do it. Anyone know a locksmith in edmonton that I can bring the cylinder into and they can produce new keys?
I then gutted the rest of the interior and some of the sound deadening(I have been saying I, but I did get much appreciated help from a friend )




We had the door off, but forgot to remove the wiring harness first
Whats the best way to disconnect the wiring harness? I think that I seen a connector behind some **** on either side.!.? If I am right then I'll wait to pull off more **** before I get to the doors.

This is the "G-sensor" Treat it like gold, cause if you drop it, a red mark appears in the tube on the side of the sensor showing that it's garbage.


A couple of pics of the modify'd front and back bumper to accomidate for the kit.


BTW if anyone wants to see more pics I post them here, and only put up some

http://s239.photobucket.com/albums/ff102/BeeGTR/Build/?start=0

For weight savings, For just the main carpet and deadening saved about 15lbs. I still have to scrape the hard **** off the floor, so that's going to take me a while(good thing it's cold). I'm not going to have anymore updates for a bit as it's minus 30 in the garage now:shock:

[BeeGTR]

Just a heads up for everyone.... RHDjapan sent me the wrong steering wheel hub. They said that there is a difference between the HICAS and non-HICAS hub. Unfortunatly they never asked me before they shipped it, so now I'm going to see if they are going to ship me a new one or if it's going to come out of my pocket, cause It will cost the same to ship the old one back as it would to order a new one.

If I end up keeping the old hub, it works on the skylines with HICAS, but you can't hook up power for the horn. So I'll update when I know what is happening, and If I keep it, I'll ship it to anyone for $10 plus shipping or free for anyone to pick up in edmonton, or it will end up as another paper weight

[BeeGTR]

Just an update, the HUB is spoken for, and to re-clarify it is for the NON-HICAS model, witch is why I can't use it. Even if you remove your HICAS it still wont work. The reason is the sizes are different and the power for the horn will not hook up.

[Speeddm]

I have a customer in Grande Prairie that will re key for you if you need. hes done it for me in the past. PM me if you still need.

[BeeGTR]

I have a customer in Grande Prairie that will re key for you if you need. hes done it for me in the past. PM me if you still need.

Thanks Speeddm! just called them