Gtr Nismo #283

[EtienneGignac]

Took the engine out. Didn't get time to undo all the crap to take the head off. More to follow probably Sunday.

[JNS Performance]

Use a long breaker bar and rest it on the chassis they turn the car over. The starter will bust that torque damper loose right away.

Had the same problem. Using the best impact on the market the Ingersoll Rand 1/2, High flow fittngs, and 145psi of constant pressure it won't budge a crank bolt on a 2JZ. Set up a breaker bar, used the starter and it came right off!

Thanks for the offer Dan. I'll let you know if I need help. What's up with you anyway ? I saw you sold a couple of parts...

For the update: can't get the crank pulley out because there's not enough space to fit the impact wrench and of course I torqued it to spec...something like 300 ft-lbs. So I'll have to take the engine out. Probably this weekend. Then I'll be able to take the timing belt out, then the cams, then retorque the head.

A little bit of cleaning and back in it goes.

More to follow.

[EtienneGignac]

Nice technique :P I'll definitely remember that for next time. I'll just have to make sure I put the breaker bar in the right direction. hehe

[EtienneGignac]

Update: took the head off. Cleaned everything and put it back on using a standard "cardboard" gasket, the one that was part of my rebuild kit.

Did a leakdown test, everything looks fine except for a little biti of air escaping through the exhaust valves even though I just got the valves recut. Is that normal ?

So I'll put everything back together and see what happens...

[c0ntract_thrilla]

Good luck man, I would love to see this thing pass me on the highway sometime soon.

-Mike

[EtienneGignac]

Well turns out that #1 is having major leakage through the exhaust valves. I'm pretty sure my machine guy didn't do his valve job correctly....

[c0ntract_thrilla]

Where did you get the work done? Armstrong's?

[EtienneGignac]

Yup. I know he knows his stuff but my valves are definitely leaking.

[c0ntract_thrilla]

Alan is a pro, but more importantly he will go good for it if he makes a mistake. I have had many friends take their blocks/heads there, he stands by his work thats why he is the best

[EtienneGignac]

I'm sure he will. The only thing that pisses me off is that I have to take the head off again and scrap another head gasket. I'm thinking about using that hylomar blue stuff on my cosworth MLS gasket...

[EtienneGignac]

It's official. Harbor freight leakdown tester is total ****.

[c0ntract_thrilla]

non accurate results? or no results?


or is **** fubard?

[EtienneGignac]

The leakage gauge is a 15 psi gauge (so needle is pegged at 15 psi) but the instructions were made as if it is a 100 psi gauge. So of course I put it to 100 psi and damaged it...plus there's no way checking leakage at 15 psi is reliable.

I'll just go to princess auto tomorrow and buy a 100 psi air gauge to replace it. Then I'll really be able to know how bad my leakage is. Apparently for a new engine 0-10% is alright. My rings are not seated though so I might be on the higher end.

And if I get more than that, it's back to Armstrong.

[EtienneGignac]

My leakdown tester is back in service. Cylinder #1 shows more leakage than the other ones through the exhaust valves (12% leakage as opposed to 3-4% for #2 through 6).

So there's definitely something wrong with that one. That begin said, 12% I think is still acceptable so I'll probably just mention it to Armstrong and finish putting the engine together put it back in again.

[EtienneGignac]

More news: I put the cams back on and the leakage went up to 35-40%. So obviously I have a valve clearance issue. I lost my feeler gauges so I won't be able to take measure before Tuesday.
Anyone know where I can get shims for cheap ?