RB26 Rebuild

[333]

[333]

[falcon]

I just died a little on the inside......


The magic formula for 99% of people would be "NUR + Dash-5s + Rod Bolts = 600 WHP of Sleeping-at-night".......

and I know it works!... add some tomei conrod bolts and some ARP head bolts/tomei hgasket for even more peace of mind.

[Eber]

Man curt, I just got back from mexico and had lunch with Mike Mc and heard the bad news...also saw the pics. Holly shitballs. I feel for you as you are now in a very similair situation as myself as to whether you want to pour more $$$ into it or not. I also heard that while the engine is apart you have some even bigger plans.. Good Boy!!!!. Anyway what sucks is hard to point fingers at but im sure the boys at z-tune will do the best they can to help you out with what needs to be done.. Its their baby too. Give me a call if you need a shoulder to cry on.. hahahaha. We can console each other with the deaths in our families. RIP RB26.:roll:

[curtisgoodman]

hahaha, everything will be fine might do somemore work on the head now that its getting replaced just a little more porting and maybe some oversized valves... might even pickup a better flowing intake plenum but besides that I wont be going to crazy just improving things a bit more now that i have the opportunity. Those pictures will be up here soon to show what happens when you lose a timing belt and or tensioner bolt on a RB26. Keep checking back for more info.

Curt

[curtisgoodman]

New Pics

[curtisgoodman]

Never EVER use a bolt that looks like that one... ever...

[curtisgoodman]

More Pics

Bottom end should be okay... hopefully

Crankshaft

Back Top of Block

Front Top of Block

Front

Keepers look intact



Timing belt a little frayed but not broken


Box-O-Parts... sad


This is a sad engine bay...

[MikeM@Ztune]

Hey Curt, FYI, Andrew and I did a little non-scientific idler bolt test tonight. We took a brand new Nissan tensioner bolt, which interestingly enough has a different finish (silver) vs. the last one (golden), which means it likely came from a different manufacturer.

First, we over-torqued the bolt to 50ft-lbs, in our spare block and used our foot to kick down on the idler pulley. No problems.

Next, we over-torqued the bolt to 100ft-lbs, and began to strip the thread on the bolt. Kicking the idler pulley with our foot still had no effect, so we took a sledge hammer to it. After about 8 solid hits and a lot of damage to the pulley, the bolt finally began to bend, and with a few more hits, eventually broke.

When you take a look at the picture below, you can see that the bolt (silver) clearly stretched it's threads and it's core as it bent and broke. The bolt (golden) from your engine simply snapped straight off.

This seems to show that the bolt should have shown signs of stretching before snapping. I will be including this comparison for Nissan.

[curtisgoodman]

crazy, thats pretty conclusive evidence supporting it was a faulty bolt... Rob my engine builder did the same thing with a similar bolt in a vice with a sledge hammer and couldn't even get the bolt to snap, it just bent right over after 6-8 hits... that golden finished bolt was poorly made... I'll get a CAT Grade 10 metric bolt from work if thats what it takes to have an unbreakable bolt

Good to hear Mike keep the posts coming!

Curt

[steebar]

Its nice to see random people helping out,sorry about the motor good luck with the new build.

[malibusst]

Hey Curt, Mike pmd me about this after i asked about these bolts, and I sent out a dozen to a test facility for fault testing... i think you have a case against Nissan,, as i have the results to prove that these bolts were not up to the task of holding EVEN 25PSI force!!!!!!!

[JNS Performance]

Very unfortunate Curtis, I would take this to Nissan for sure and get as much out as possible.

Hope you get it back together asap!

[curtisgoodman]

Looking into some more strengthening mods and more flow for the head... more port work is to be done to smooth out the flow... looking into oversized valves (has anyone on this forum done oversized?) and also getting ARP main studs & nuts... i know that 3 of the 14 are a bit longer but does anyone have the correct length of the studs or part numbers for ARP cause they're not listed in the '07 ARP catalog... and i believe that they're M10 x 1.5...

Any help would be great...

Thanks!

[JBNR32]

Looking into some more strengthening mods and more flow for the head... more port work is to be done to smooth out the flow... looking into oversized valves (has anyone on this forum done oversized?) and also getting ARP main studs & nuts... i know that 3 of the 14 are a bit longer but does anyone have the correct length of the studs or part numbers for ARP cause they're not listed in the '07 ARP catalog... and i believe that they're M10 x 1.5...

Any help would be great...

Thanks!

You can get a erics performance parts ARP bolt kit. He just measured the length of the bolts and bought the correct length studs through ARP, theres no specific kit. I had a set but returned them because you have shave the end off two or three studs to clear the tube that runs through the oilpan for the drive axle. I ended up going for tomei head/main studs $$$$. I also was told a align hone is recommended when going from bolts to studs.