My New R33 GTR - so it begins...

[ColinR33]

There is a thread/trick here to cut in the vinyl and not leave a mark if ever you want to remove your gauge. Cut a "H" hole and push in the flaps. Pop them back up if you remove the gauge.

I'll have to check that out, thanks for the tip.

Colin you used to get hesitation after 5k rpms? Mine just started doing this yesterday

Yeah, up around 6-7k she'd start to miss a bit. Took my coils out, cleaned them and taped up one spot and that seemed to help, but the Splitfires do make a noticeable difference.

[cortexx]

Hey colin , nice pile'o'parts - im in the process of parts accumulation myself Youhave the same gauges as i had last winter to install I chose the white face ones because eventually i want the 320klmh nismo cluster , the standard cluster wraps the speedo needle too fast now

I cut the H pattern into my dash with an xacto knife and then drilled through the hard undershell with a 1/2 inch drill , if you remove the pod the H pattern can easily hide the hole as you not removing any material.

[ColinR33]

Thanks Paul, more to come, doing mostly reliability/monitoring and suspension mods this winter. Hoping to go to a white face cluster with 320 kmh speedo too soon, but sadly not in the budget for this year. Got the white face Defi's too. I'll try the trick with the H cut, seems like the way to go. What have you got planned?

[cortexx]

remove head and clean up valves , new poncams , new HKS valve springs , titanium retainers , 8mm stainless cosworth head gasket ARP head studs , Nismo intake , 680cc hks injectors , HKS dual feed fuel rail , Tomei fuel pump , Sard FPR , russel lines and fuel fittings , Apexi power fc install , powdercoat my valve covers to something not shiney. replace the N1 water pump , tomei timing belt , all new timing belt idler pulleys , single large electrich fan for rad .

If i dont like what i see when i remove the head ... n1 block, cosworth pistons, new rods and crank with a tomei oil pump all fully balanced with the existing nismo flywheel and clutch assembly, oil pan baffle , oil restrictors in the head....

It's going to be a long cold winter

[ColinR33]

Wow. Me gusta. Me jelly, too.

[r33_gtst]

It's going to be a long cold winter

And a fun, boost filled summer!

I hope you don't like what you see when you remove the head. N1 built bottom end FTW!

[ColinR33]

More parts arrived today!
Tein Mono Flex Coiovers, Nutsuren wrenches, Mines baffles.

Just one or two more shipments and ready to go!

[PurpleStreak]

More parts arrived today!
Tein Mono Flex Coiovers, Nutsuren wrenches, Mines baffles.

Just one or two more shipments and ready to go!

waaanttt

[ColinR33]

So, started in on the simple stuff, installing the Mines cam cover baffles. Took the cam covers off, you can see the oil puddling up.

First step is to take the old baffles off and clean everything up...

Get the new baffles ready with some liquid gasket and put the new oil separator foam in


Some more liquid gasket on the mounting shelf, some loctite on the screws and all done!

[DJ]

they look pretty simple and easy to replicate.

[ColinR33]

Yep, could be done.

[ColinR33]

So finally got out to the garage to do a bit of work, decided to overhaul the blitz BOV's, they were looking pretty cruddy and one seemed seized.
This is when I took them off, unfortunately I had already wiped them down a bit, you can't see all the crud and oil on the horns.

Took them off the pipe, lots of oil and dirt in there (catch can and baffles installed now!)


When opening up, watch out for the spring, it will shoot the top across your workroom if you do not hang on to it after undoing all the allen nuts. More oil and dirt...

Here you can see all the scoring on the piston from the dirt...

Cleaned everything up nicely inside and out.

Put back together, pistons move much smoother now, and they look prettier, nice and shiny! Too bad no-one will see .

[ColinR33]

Ripped out the interior and got her up on stands in preparation for installing Defi-Link, gauges and coilovers - just so much more room with all the seat out! Also need the rear shelf out to access the bolts for the rear shocks, but once I got it out I found the Attesa ECU blocking access to the to the bolts, and will make it very difficult to adjust the coilover settings:

Looks like I'll hav e to extend the harness and install it in the trunk.
Also found adjustable tension rods, another surprise. Have a 4-arm kit coming in, so these will likely be for sale shortly.

[dsmart]

I thought that the ECU mounted over the rear shock was for the fuel pump...lowers voltage at idle etc etc.?

[ColinR33]

I thought that the ECU mounted over the rear shock was for the fuel pump...lowers voltage at idle etc etc.?

Interresting, checked again, half the refs say attesa ecu and half say fuel pump ecu.FAST time! Either way it's gotta be moved if I want to be able to adjust the coils. Gonna have to wait a bit, got the flu and feel like I got hit by a truck right now.