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My 1995 GTR project thread.

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  • #31
    triple gauge pod came from newzealand , it has a bit of a crack on the right side lip so i probably wont use it , it is molded to fit on top of the dash. It needs some minor repairs.

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    • #32
      If looking to replace it check Adam at feast out. He just for more in.
      Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

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      • #33
        already one step ahead of you , have one on order

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        • #34
          What size gauges will it fit.. The cracked one that is?

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          • #35
            It fits 52 - 60mm , it has a feint circle embedded on it you have to expand the holes out to for the 60mm gauges


            Originally posted by MattRose View Post
            What size gauges will it fit.. The cracked one that is?

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            • #36
              Ok sounds good man, just trying to keep an eye out for ya
              Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

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              • #37
                is that your KPGC10 in your sig ?

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                • #38
                  Amazing build so far, cant wait to see that hood mounted.
                  Victory is on the horizon..

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                  • #39
                    Yeah I wonder what that babys gonna look like when its done ( Your avatar! hahaha ).
                    Heart rate 160, I'm goin 260, RB26 run me past you in a jiffy

                    GT-R

                    O O SKYLINE O O

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                    • #40
                      a had a few PM's suggesting that i have a less creepy avatar , so i changed it

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                      • #41
                        Back in the shop over the weekend with a box of Russel braided size 12 line and some fittings ..

                        I know alot of you have used earls and other brands of braided lines but I've also seen some very bad attempts at assembling lines at car shows and even my early attempts were not the greatest. They look easy to assemble but a few hints before can save alot of time and damaged parts.

                        You can buy the lines already made up if you order them to your spec , but half the fun is buying parts and self assembly so for newcomers to this endeavour here is a short section on how to correctly assemble your lines.

                        So we start of with a box that contains 20ft of Russel size 12 line. I have decided to choose their new nylon braided hose over the stainless as i prefer the understated look , the flexibility and its resistance to abraision against other items in the engine bay.



                        I started by cutting 2 lengths ready for the catch can. Wrap the hose where you want to cut it with masking tape and cut it with a nice fresh hacksaw blade . Russel do provide a special tool for doing this but it's pretty pricey and not justafiable unless you intend to make alot of hoses, so the hack job was the best solution here .



                        You'll notice when you cut this that the hose tends to fray and unravel a bit but the tape keeps it all together . This is what you end up with.



                        trim the frayed edges off with a sharp pair of scissors like this -



                        It's now ready for the fitting. I chose the russel black and silver fittings for this job, again , i'm not a big fan of lots of blue and red fittings everywhere , i really like the stealth GTR rips built and this influenced my choice here a bit too

                        -12 an 45deg fittings for the can end -



                        start assembly by carefully removing the masking tape and threading the large nut onto the braided line. It has a coarse thread inside it to make this a pretty easy job , stop twisting it on when the hose comes to within about a mil of the inside lip .



                        As you will see from this pic , the second piece of the fitting has a tapered end to facilitate entry into the end of the hose while threading it all together, i put a tiny amount of vaseline on this taper to stop the fitting ripping the inside of the hose when being assembled.



                        I then clamp it firmly (not to tight) in a vice to hold the large nut while i screw the fitting into the hose. This part is crucial to get right because you have to hold the hose behind the nut to stop the fitting pushing out the hose partially as you screw the black part of the fitting in. Use a rag in the vice to stop damage on the fittings.

                        Last edited by cortexx; 05-04-2011, 12:15 AM.

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                        • #42
                          The finished product one end at least ...



                          I have here some nylon hose protector that came with my HKS oil cooler kit, this i'm using where the hose comes into contact with the braided steel lines of the oil cooler. It might not look the greatest but does stop unnecessary damage to these lines .



                          Test fitting thelines to the catch can



                          Here is a closeup so that you can see the application in detail , the RIPS can came with 4 12an fittings in total. My first setup will be 2 lines to the cam covers , one fitting blanked off and the lower fitting is being fed back to the oil return on the front turbo. I dont want to fart around emptying the catch can , I want it self sufficient.



                          if this doesnt work as intended ill be removing the breather unit on the rips tank and plumbing in a vacuum hose back to the pcv system on the engine that atm is removed.

                          The cam covers were taken to a friends shop today to have the steel inserts removed . I attempted this last week with a jack and makeshift frame but as i said somewhere else on these forums the jack slipped out causing a cam cover to hit me in the bollocks and cause me to lie on the workshop floor like a wanker until the pain subsided. ( Hurt so much i almost puked) .

                          The crappy castings actually had a slight crack around the original location so we may be cutting out the old bung completely to weld new aluminium bungs in place that are threaded for new russel fittings

                          I have decided the polished finish may not be what i want , so am looking at powder coating them instead , just not sure what type yet..

                          more to follow later this week !
                          Last edited by cortexx; 05-04-2011, 12:30 AM.

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                          • #43
                            Great build, just read thru the whole thing! I can directly relate to a number of things you've run into, and I'm getting some ideas for next years installment of my build - my budget is shot for this year, just got the Vipec to install and dyno tune, and then enjoy! I really like how you're doing your stuff.

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                            • #44
                              Thanks , alot of it is mundane to read but it's the small obvious jobs like this that takes the majority of the time. Sometimes even the most simple of installations presents challenges. Not much info on R33 builds really , everything i found is R32 and it's suprising how much these cars differ when you start doing things to them..

                              When the plumbing is done i will supply a list of fitting parts numbers and hose lengths so that someone can order a list and have everything they need to complete the job, I had a hard time finding facts on this, just lots of theory and points of view!

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                              • #45
                                Nice selection of parts you're using for this build! I can't wait to see the finished product!

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