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My 1995 GTR project thread.

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  • Sorry missed this reply ....

    The Hids i have are 9000k , a bit on the blue side but they light the road up very well at night in my rural area.

    I have been flashed maybe twice in 12 months since i did the conversion ( about 6000klm) .

    Originally posted by R33-East View Post
    What color temp HID's did you get? I am looking to get some to as the stock one's are not very bright. From what I have read there will be a serious amount of glare for oncoming traffic. Have you had any trouble with this since you installed them?

    Here's the kit I am looking at, http://www.vvme.com/hid-headlights/s...conversion-kit

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    • Sorry missed this reply ....

      The Hids i have are 9000k , a bit on the blue side but they light the road up very well at night in my rural area.

      I have been flashed maybe twice in 12 months since i did the conversion ( about 6000klm) .
      Good to know, I think I will go with 6000k then, they should give me good visibility without being to bright. Thanks!

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      • what happened here, i want more of this beautiful build. any qualms with the tomei turbos?

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        • The turbos are great , im in a state of parts collection atm , will be ading lots of updates this year ....

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          • SO small update to my plans more than anything else .

            I've spent a majority of winter researching as much as i could on the RB , tuning , power , response builds etc and this has caused a slight change in direction .

            Original plan was to tune with a power fc ljetro and obtain some nismo mafs as i have the greddy suction kit installed but decided against this and will be installing a Vipec V44 ecu and ditching the mafs and O2 sensors.

            I did a compression test tonight after a quick blast aorund the block to warm up the engine and i have 158psi - 166psi across the board except cylinder 5 which is puffing at around 140 psi. This is outside of the factory tolerances and although the car pulls and runs strong , it suggests that increasing its power output at this stage is probably a bad idea.

            I have a titanium tomei exhaust coming soon that will be installed this spring to replace the trust system that is on there at the moment. But the main decision has been to build a longblock to replace my present block. I'll also install the vipec system and get used to using the tuning software on the presently installed engine, and if the learning curve blows up my present engine it wont be a total heart breaker

            I really didnt want to rip the existing engine apart and have it off the road for a year so i have elected to start collecting the parts i want for a blueprinted lightweight and strong block assembly .

            I have got a brand new r34 crank on the way as well as a set of Forged carillo H beam rods and CARR bolts , looking at a set of mahle pistons to complete a very strong and lightweight internal build . Add to that a pair of Tial BOV's to replace my suspected leaking factory units. Looking for 10,000 rpm rev limit . The Tial BOVs are VTA which should be good with the mafless vipc setup and will enable me to ditch all the BOV return crap and pipes.

            Need to obtain a block and head from somewhere , I have a new set of HKS valve springs , poncam b's , nismo intake , hks 680cc injectors amongst other parts ready for the new build .

            Im going to stick with stock valves in the head but after some research im going to port match the head to the headers and throttle bodies . I have a seal kit for the ITB assembly to make sure it doesnt leak . go ARP fasteners for everything (except the carr bolts) and a cosworth head gasket of .8mm but going to have the head shaved very slightly to increase compression by a small amount to help enhance the response.

            Main challenge is going to be finding a machinist familiar with the rb26 that can machine it properly and not screw it up . I called a few places this week and 2 of them dont even know what an RB26 is. Suggestions would be most welcome here.

            Trying to figure out what to use for a block , was thinking of sourcing a brand new 24U casting but they are far and few between and rediculous pricing also - not sure if my build , power potential really requires it. A used head from a running R33 engine would be a good starting point , i'll be rebuilding this myself .

            SO thats the plan - more will be added once Daryl has my new exhaust and I doc the install with pics of course

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            • 10k rev limit eh. with pon cams?
              1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost

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              • John maybe i should rephrase that as 10k safety net for when i over rev past 8k in first and second gear I dont intend to sit in the 8k-10k rev band all day

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                • Sick! from project tame to project 2nd mortgage haha. Good to hear someone is building a real gtr! Post pics and videos of the tomei exhaust when it gets installed, I'm jealous I couldn't afford one

                  When you said "lightweight internals", why did you go with one of the heaviest conrods? The Carr H beams are heavy (though they are rated over 1500whp or something lol), why didn't you go with Carrillo SA beams, unless you're going for more than 800whp.

                  Block, may aswell get an N1 block, they're worth the cost which judging by your build, is not an issue.

                  680cc injectors will be perfect IF you stay under 500whp. I believe 80-85% injector duty is a safe limit and if your tuner is even slightly rich, that limit will come around 500whp which isn't much power for this crazy build.

                  Again, sick build!!!
                  Last edited by NismoS-tune; 03-01-2012, 12:00 PM.
                  Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
                  Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
                  Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
                  Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
                  Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
                  White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.

                  Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.

                  start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
                  lol

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                  • When you said "lightweight internals", why did you go with one of the heaviest conrods? The Carr H beams are heavy (though they are rated over 1500whp or something lol), why didn't you go with Carrillo SA beams, unless you're going for more than 800whp.
                    I have a bad habit of "just a little more" once i complete a project - i see a possible large single and bigger injectors down the road ( in the far distance ) . I consider my block over built an investment in future proofing ! I'm 44 yrs old , had back surgery , don't like removing engines more than i have to

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                    • Cortexx Have you thought about rb30? from what it costs to properly build an engine prep a block, crank, rods, pistons, assemble etc machine work is going to be 0-3k add your top shelf parts list and your up there. Even if you assemble yourself with quality parts your looking at 5k. i started seeing this and i realized to build an engine to the spec i want is going to costs me at least 7k by someone who may have never even worked on an rb before. so i've really been considering a rips engine, they're a reasonable price considering what it would cost to build an rb plus you get an experienced builder who has built countless engines and will stand behind the product.

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                      • Hi Jules

                        I have indeed looked at an RB30 option , I gave it some consideration but the main thing that puts me off is that it is taller then an rb26 , and this means lowering the engine to compensate for the extra height which is not easy to do with low slung twin turbos.

                        I actually enjoy the process of building an engine , i am very meticulous with the details and analyze the build before i start.

                        I have rebuilt Ford rs2000 , lotus esprit 2.2 , austin minis , maxis , MGB , Sunbeam Holbay 1725 , Ford RSturbo , fiat arbath twincam , alfa romeo boxer flat 4 , commanche capri v6 essex rover V8 , chev 350 , mitsu 6g72 andprobably some others that dont come to mind at the moment..

                        Fact is the research , piecing the parts and then the assembly is as enjoyable to me as driving the finished Mill .. back in the day we used to work from BP spec sheets , manuals and manufacturer service packs . Today research can be done easily on the net , never had that back in the day when i was a mechanic ... I remeber calling fiat for the valve clearances on a 2 litre twincam engine and have them fax it to us .. that was pretty cool back then (although trying to read the fax was another matter).

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                        • Sounds like a good planned build Paul. If you call Radek he knows a machinist familiar with straight 6's. They installed the HKS Step 2's with double springs and titanium retains for my head.
                          1995 R33 GTR Vspec - Sold
                          2004 Dodge SRT-4 Stage 3R - Sold
                          2013 Subaru WRX STI - Where is the power? - Daily

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                          • Great build looking forward to reading more

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                            • Why did you decide to go with a power FC?
                              Real Skyline owners have lost at least one to a freakish accident (*- ω -) = #dungive'a

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                              • I actually will be using the Vipec V44 that i pick up this week , the brand new Power FC is now for sale unused along with a brand new datalogit module and software ..

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