Bobbo's build

[nimblestix]

The sway bars will make a VERY noticeable difference in performance. Nice shoes BTW.

sent from a galaxy far, far away

[future_R34]

Sooooooo nice, wish I had funds to do all that (:

[bobbo]

Sort of a double edged sword. I used to have "funds"

[louis110]

Oh myyy. I want so many of your nice things.

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk

[RBlen32]

Very nice build man! I'm very curious what you used to clean the inner panels by the by-pass valves.

[bobbo]

Thanks! Castrol Super Clean. Available almost any auto parts store. It's in a Purple bottle.

[bobbo]

It's been awhile since I've had a chance to sit down and do any up dates. So here's some... stuff.

I kept finding this weird blue goo just infront of my right rear wheel and after investigating found this...

As some of you may know we have fluid filled rear subframe bushings. Time for an Energy Suspension Poly subframe kit.

Most of the other bushings had already been done including the diff bushings. Here's what you have to do. It's really not too bad.
I marked my drive shaft before dropping it. I doubt you have to but just in case. Of course you'll have to drop your exhaust.

Of course you need to unbolt your rear shocks. You can do it either from the top of bottom. I opted for the top. Seemed easier.
You will have to disconnect and drain your ATTESSA and HICAS oil, disconnect the hp hydraulic lines, parking brake cables and don't forget the harnesses on top of the diff.


Once everything is disconnected (don't forget the little ground wire on the rear of the subframe on the left side like I did) all you have to do is undue the subrame bolts. 6 in all and it's on the ground.

Time for some clean up before the big pain in the ass begins.
Before:

After:

Before:

After:

Now the work begins.
There are different ways to do this. Some say to burn the bushings out but I didn't think this was a great idea so I used and arbor and a chizel to get rid of the rubber. Once that was done I used a hacksaw to cut 3 slits in the sleeve and used a chizel and hammer to work the sleeves out. It's not too bad.



This will give you an idea of what you're removing.


Everything removed and cleaned up with a wire wheel.

A couple coats of paint to prevent corrosion, some grease that is included in the kit and voila!

I did have the luxury of a lift but this can be done with axle stands and some jacks. I wouldn't want to though. It's bad enough as it is.

[louis110]

Very nice. Have you had a chance to drive it with the swaybars/bushing combo yet?

[bobbo]

Yes. Quite a bit. I did this work back in early June. You can hear a bit more from the diff. I'm not very happy with the Cusco sway bar kit. If I were to do it again I'd buy the WhiteLine kit. Kicking myself for not.
Although the car is very flat in cornering there is too much understeer. Yesterday I put the oem front bar back in to see if that brings the balance back. I'd actually prefer some over steer and increase the ATESSA gain to compensate if necessary.
I'm having the ends cut off the Cusco front bar and having new ends welded back on with some adjustability.
I've got a Time Attack Saturday so I'm NOT happy about playing with handling issues and a fueling issue so close to an event.

[louis110]

Well that's good to know! I have been pretty close to buying a set of Cusco sways but you just changed my mind.

[louis110]

Right Drive got my Whiteline swaybars in today, Rob. Unfortunately I won't get to to install/try them out (not too many twisties here anyway) until Spring. I was reading up on people's opinions, Cusco vs Whiteline, and it seems that more people prefer Cusco because of build quality.

[Bruizer]

Right Drive got my Whiteline swaybars in today, Rob. Unfortunately I won't get to to install/try them out (not too many twisties here anyway) until Spring. I was reading up on people's opinions, Cusco vs Whiteline, and it seems that more people prefer Cusco because of build quality.

I went cusco which aren't solid (rather hollow) which supposedly makes it a better bar. cusco are larger but whiteline a adjustable. guess it depends what you're after. going back, I'd probably go whiteline for adjustability.

[bobbo]

I'm so far behind on updates but I'll comment on what I've found re: sway bars.
I installed both front and rear Cusco bars and the car plowed like a bulldozer so I removed the Cusco front bar, put the oem bar back in and had the new one modified so it's now adjustable. I haven't tried it yet but I'm sure I need some camber adjustment to help balance the car in addition to softening the front car. I still had more understeer than I wanted with the oem bar.
I changed my corner entry technique/braking to balance the car but that only works in lower speed corners.

[bobbo]

It's been a long time since I've updated mostly because I'm lazy.
That being said I'll be doing some updates over the next couple of weeks starting with today's work.
From what I could find out I'm one of the first to "drop" the engine out of an R chassis.
Not gonna lie it's not the easiest way to do it but it looks pretty cool when you raise the body and leave the the subframe on the floor.

[strickaj]

I've pulled a few out from the top, dropping it out the bottom is faster and easier,
imho