Nissin Bnr32 "savior" project

[bobbo]

My recomondation would be to build it by the book but with a better oil pump and drive. Forged pistons would be a good idea too. My .2 worth.

[Nismo_line]

My recomondation would be to build it by the book but with a better oil pump and drive. Forged pistons would be a good idea too. My .2 worth.

I wanted better internals so i dont have to worry about this again. I may have just found a mint block for cheap which would save me on all the machining costs and i could run 86mm pistons.

[Nismo_line]

Little update. After being pretty busy in august, i finally had a chance to get my car on the hoist and rip the engine out. Was a bit of a pain but its all done.



Now that i dont need the hoist anymore and i dont have to worry about the shitty weather with the engine in the shop. Tear down should be pretty quick.

[Skym]

Thanks for the link! Im not too sure on what to run piston wise tho. 87mm 8.5-1 or 9-1. I will be doing the main bearings too. Would it be enough to go with a standard size or standard +.0001 extra oil clearance?

Bearing wise, Nismo bearings are best. Or coated ACL bearings (similar thing).

General rule of thumb with turbocharged engines -

Lower compression = higher boost level.

Higher compression = lower boost level.

Oil clearances, look here under "specifications" -

http://www.tomeipowered.com/BTE/index.php/2011/04/28/rb26-complete-engine-advanced-spec/

If go with Tomei oilpump (external adjustable pressure) it moves more oil, so have to enlarge the sump to at least 9 litres (add wings to side of sump to increase capacity and add some depth to sump + extend the pickup to keep pickup covered up. Add a box section that has one way trap doors, which can be purchased from Tomei in the form of a universal baffle kit that you weld in).

Or fit a swinging pickup (as used / done with Amercian made V8's).

To eliminate oil starvation, blowby problems with higher boost levels, fit a dry sump setup.

It depends on how far you want to take it hp wise and your budget. Ideally for track / road use 460-550hp is enough and can be done with stock conrods (forged I beam), upgraded conrod bolts from Tomei or similar, forged Tomei pistons. If drive car hard with above 550hp at engine, replace the stock forged I beam conrods with forged H beam conrods.

[Nismo_line]

Thanks for the info skym!! I was planning on grabbing Manley H beam rods and acl bearings. also planning to go with cp pistons.

more of a update. went and tore the block down. Its nice to have some more progress on the engine.


Whats left of piston 6.


This weekend i should have my block completely torn down and ready to be sent to a machine shop.

[Skym]

You're welcome.

Here's a company that coats the ACL bearings for performance engines -

http://www.calicocoatings.com/bearings/

You'll need the oil restrictor to prevent too much oil reaching the head and starving the sump of oil.

[Nismo_line]

that restrictor is needed when using race bearings? (acl)

[Nismo_line]

So things took a turn. I scooped up a friends R33 GTR V-spec that was written off. Got it for a very good price so i plan to take the Engine and the Brembos off of it. Put my brakes onto it and then sell as a rolling chassis.

Today I repurchased a Tomei Ti catback exhaust that i originally bought the same day my car blew up.

[Skym]

that restrictor is needed when using race bearings? (acl)

Usually when using a higher pressure / higher volume oil pump like N1, Nismo, Tomei, JUN, etc (also requires an enlarged sump, box section with trap doors, etc to at least 9 litres from the factory 4? litres or so with Tomei, JUN, HKS, etc oilpumps, as are higher volume, pressure / moves more oil).

The oil restrictor reduces the amount of oil getting to the head, so the sump is not starved of oil and pickup is not uncovered (increasing sump capacity helps to prevent the pickup from getting uncovered and starving the engine of oil which results in bearing failure). Another common trick is slightly overfilling the stock sump. Proper way is via a dry sump setup which eliminates the problem, as the oil is sucked out of the head by the dry sump pump.

Another trick is via using a Accusump tank to increase sump capacity. It opens the valve and releases oil if pickup is starved of oil (oil pressure drops).

Also if the R33 GTR stock intercooler is in good condition, use that (slightly bigger, higher flowing than stock R32 GTR intercooler).

[Nismo_line]

Thanks for the tips. Time to do some research to see what i need to swap over to that engine to make it work in the r32 and to keep the ability to swap to rwd and awd. Im assuming that using the r32 diff will solve that

[Skym]

You're welcome. Can pull the 4wd fuse under dash for rwd.

Or can custom make a switch setup to help solve the 4wd problem -

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=107753

There are 4wd controllers you can buy from Japan.

On R34 N1 GTR they had buttons on dash to switch to wet weather 4wd, ABS settings from dry settings.

R33, R34 GTR is said to have preload (amount of torque) to front wheels, so have to remove front driveshaft to disable 4wd properly or I think will damage the clutch packs inside the transfer case.

[Nismo_line]

You're welcome. Can pull the 4wd fuse under dash for rwd.

Or can custom make a switch setup to help solve the 4wd problem -

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=107753

There are 4wd controllers you can buy from Japan.

On R34 N1 GTR they had buttons on dash to switch to wet weather 4wd, ABS settings from dry settings.

R33, R34 GTR is said to have preload (amount of torque) to front wheels, so have to remove front driveshaft to disable 4wd properly or I think will damage the clutch packs inside the transfer case.

I have a torque splitter already and i knew that the r33 and r34 were different. With this engine being from a R33 I still want to be able to flick a switch and run rwd so im curious as to what I need to do to the engine to make it work. Like swap my oil pan/diff from the r32 to the r33

[sb119]

I have a torque splitter already and i knew that the r33 and r34 were different. With this engine being from a R33 I still want to be able to flick a switch and run rwd so im curious as to what I need to do to the engine to make it work. Like swap my oil pan/diff from the r32 to the r33

The front differential is the same the difference is in the transfer case. Are you planning to just swap in the new engine or are you using the r33 transmission and transfercase as well? The wiring harnesses between r32 and r33 are also slightly different so it would probably be easiest to swap all your r32 wiring and coil packs onto the r33 engine.

[Nismo_line]

The front differential is the same the difference is in the transfer case. Are you planning to just swap in the new engine or are you using the r33 transmission and transfercase as well? The wiring harnesses between r32 and r33 are also slightly different so it would probably be easiest to swap all your r32 wiring and coil packs onto the r33 engine.

I was planning to use the r32 tranny and transfer case.

[sb119]

You'll be good to go then to run a rwd/awd switch.