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Strut tower bar arrived today. In better shape than it looked on ebay. Installed Endless Brake lines today as well. Plus a I discovered my Springs are RS-R. Anybody know much about RS-R springs?
1989 Skyline GTR
"Want to Race? Save it for the track!"
www.victoriamotorsports.ca
I just ordered a set of RSR springs. Depending on the model they are fairly inexpensive. (under $300) If they are the Ti model then forget what I said before!
Nice build! I wish I had the patience, precision, and funds to do something like that.
They are not Ti. The Ti say Ti2000 on them. These are just black with the RS-R logo on them. So it will be anybodies guess which model they are, unless there different lengths fr different models.
1989 Skyline GTR
"Want to Race? Save it for the track!"
www.victoriamotorsports.ca
They are about a 1" drop over stock. I forget what the model number was for them. But from what I can tell there was only one model below the Ti springs. They are still good springs, just not the best
A change in plans. Taking Eric Hsu's advice and I have purchased some SPL adjustable upperlinks and some Nagisa adjustable tension rod's. Also I have installed a torque split controller. I was able use this at my last Autox and it made a big difference, especially when it started to rain. Thanks to Jason(aka. GTR-J) for his soldering expertise on the install.
1989 Skyline GTR
"Want to Race? Save it for the track!"
www.victoriamotorsports.ca
A change in plans. Taking Eric Hsu's advice and I have purchased some SPL adjustable upperlinks and some Nagisa adjustable tension rod's. Also I have installed a torque split controller. I was able use this at my last Autox and it made a big difference, especially when it started to rain. Thanks to Jason(aka. GTR-J) for his soldering expertise on the install.
The torque split controller made a HUGE difference in the tunability for me.
Make sure you're dilligent with inspecting adjustable suspension parts. You'll want to make sure all jam nuts and connections remain tight!
Good mods Marke! You're building a nice handling package!
According to Carroll Smith's Engineer in Your Pocket, my understeer issues will be cured with more front Swar bar, negative camber and some toe out to help the turn in.
This is what he has to say about Rear Sway Bars.
My opinion is that on most road courses a rear anti-roll bar is a bad thing. Anti-roll bars transfer lateral load from the unladen tire to the laden tire- exactly what we don't want at the rear. I would much rather use enough spring to support the rear of the car. The exception comes when there are washboard ripples at the corner exits- as in street courses and poorly paved road circuits.
Results of to much rear bar.
>If imbalance is extreme can cause corner entry oversteer
>Corner exit oversteer. Car won't put power down but goes directly to oversteer due to inside wheelspin
>Excessive sliding on corner exit
>Car has violent reaction to major bumps and may be upset by "FIA kerbs"
The way my GTR is right now, when I slow the car down enough in the turn to stop the understeer it jumps to oversteer. I think rear bar would make this worse.
1989 Skyline GTR
"Want to Race? Save it for the track!"
www.victoriamotorsports.ca
Awesome! Did you do the autoX with the Cusco rear sway bar installed as well? If you didn't, I think it would be interesting to see what you noticed with it installed and with OEM installed. That would confirm or deny Carroll Smith's opinion...
Do you have strut tower bars installed front and rear?
Now I'm just no sussy expert, so I'm just going to throw this out there - what about putting more brake bias towards the rear to solve the understeer issue?
R compound tires: DO IT!!! :-D
Dan Hofman DnA Garage - the performance gene www.dnagarage.ca
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