Project.. !!FREAK!!!

[speedfreak]

No data logit
Its one of those exspenses that I've put off cause the wide band I have has 5 sensor inputs plus the AF ratio to datalog and graph on the laptop
Might still get it though for the eas of changing maps quickly

[speedfreak]

Its been a while since I've updated .
Lately its been mostly getting parts together and doing port work on the cylinderhead.

Heres some of the goodies












And here the Trust pan extension which I almost lost a Finger for!!!
wouldn't stop bleeding for an hour when I slipped while cutting.






Haven't recieved the Crower I Beams yet and haven't finished the head so I can re cc the chamber to then order the pistons.

Hope Santa's gonna bring me MORE

[speedfreak]

*Update time*

I thought I'd fill in some of the blanks between 06-09

So I started off building a 2.6 and midway got distracted and ended up with a
3ltr

I lost some of my build pics in a laptop crash so it kinda jumps ahead past the bottom end part.

heres some of the porting and chamber work but the finale pics again got lost so far.






I had wiseco pistons made with top and sides coated.
Argo rods cause I'm a true believer in "I Beams"



I will fill in the bottom end build pics when I can find them but heres the partial assembly.




This pic shows the rear head drain I made
I choose to not insert a fitting into the head as this just raises the height of the drain hole entry in the head.
So I made a block with an equal size hole so the oil can drop in and down.


Now nobody wants a boost leak so I had the Greddy manifold welded.





Now was the time to build a manifold,
I can openly admit that building one of these takes time,time,time and a small toll on your life span so be prepared.
Also wanna say thanks to Manni aka "malibusst" for some guidance.




Even though the engine was in the car it seemed to take forever for the little things to get sorted out like intake piping ,fuel lines rail etc....






Clearance was tight!!!


Finally I can say Its nearly done!! yay!!







And it all fits inside of this........






I still have more fuel system things todo, suspension to install and another laptop to get before tuning can begin but it runs and its good to hear it purrrrr again!!!!!!!!

[archaeic_bloke]

hey, wow that looks great, cool thread mang...

i was wonderig what you meant about "stress riser".. never heard that term before?

and did you polish the inside of the block? can you explain what you did there and why?

[RABBIT]

WHERE DID U GET THAT PULLEY?????
why do u have 7 pistons

[frankiman]

wow 3 years later, lol

crazy nice build, all custom, intense

love the enormous turbo setup

and those XD9s OMG

[speedfreak]

hey, wow that looks great, cool thread mang...

i was wonderig what you meant about "stress riser".. never heard that term before?

and did you polish the inside of the block? can you explain what you did there and why?

Stress risers are the casting impressions left inside and outside the block aswell as the rough corners of machined surfaces.
I kinda think of it like breaking a piece of glass using pressure in the middle.
If the glass is smooth there should be more force need to crack it,but if there is a score mark like when you scratch it for cutting it will crack much easier.

as for polishing the inside of the block I did it using an angle grinder with a
sand paper pad to initially remove the casting then another air powered dremel with 3m scuff discs to provide the smoother finish.
Deburring the oil return and polishing also make oil return much faster.
I have seen people use paints on the inside of the block to smoothen it for oil return but I was a little scared of paint flakes plugging the oil pick up.
hope that answers your question.

As for the pulley the crank is a Ross balancer
Its an older version as the newer ones come with the degreeing on it.
Good for Sub 11s

http://www.rosstuffbond.com.au/automotive_parts.html

[archaeic_bloke]

wow... thats very intelligent, and makes a lot of sense to polish the inside of a block... i would definitley do that myself if i ever do a rebuild... i could see that being one of those things that i would enjoy.

i love doin thigs for the car like cleaning all the little bits, and polishing things, so thats right up my ally...

any danger of doing some damage when doing stuff like that?

[speedfreak]

wow... thats very intelligent, and makes a lot of sense to polish the inside of a block... i would definitley do that myself if i ever do a rebuild... i could see that being one of those things that i would enjoy.

i love doin thigs for the car like cleaning all the little bits, and polishing things, so thats right up my ally...

any danger of doing some damage when doing stuff like that?

When removing the roughness always use a disc that has some flexability as you don't want to gouge a deep line into other parts unintentionally.Also if the area is too difficult to reach with a tool then its better lft untouched.
Areas in our engines that are THIN like the webbing under the mains are best to just give a light dremeling.
The oil returns at the rear of the block seem to alway have a casting piece or lump left in there like you find on plastic model part trees.
Be very careful around the main journals and its only necessary to remove the roughness of the surface and while trying not to remove too much material.
Evenly rounded edges are stronger than jagged edges.Sometimes all thats needed is sandpapering with the tip of the finger.

THIS NEXT PART IS THE DO OR DIE PART!!
Lastly when all the sanding it done every corner,crack hole and oil passage must be flushed brushed and blown out.
I had to remove the factory oil gallery plugs and tap them for pipe thread to put pipe plugs back in with pipe sealant for the threads.

When I can find the othe pics I will put them up of other things to do or watch out for in the engine.

[speedfreak]

Yay! I got a new laptop and was able to retrieve my pictures!!
So here are pictures of the deck where I had rounded the edges of the coolant and oil passages to help prevent cracking between them.
Also I rounded the edges of the head stud holes.






Some info for those who don't know about crankshafts.
When oil passages are drilled at the factory they are drilled in
a way that always leaves a dead end that can collect debris like sludge.
The only why to remove it is to drill out the aluminum plug which is pressed
into the crank. This allows you to thoroughly clean any particles
out of the crank passages.
Sometimes people overlook this when they do there own rebuilds after a bearing failure and bearing debris is stuck in there or machining debris is in there.
This can lead to a confusing and depressing reoccurance of bearing failures.
Also many people have the cranks heat treat or cleaned in caustic soda baths or something similar.
This can loosen the plugs and cause them to come out or leak when the engine is running.
To reseal the passages I used allen head grub screw and I used a tap to cut threads in the end of the passage first.
I put a little high strength lock tight on the thread of the screw(not too much though cause you don't want to have a hard blob of lock tight on the inside of the oil passage.
Let the lock tight cure and its done.
Some people use a small ball bearing which is pressed into the hole to block the end.
I have never tried plugging one that way so I can't help you there.




This is the oil drain for the rear of the head.
I made it so oil could fall into the drain block instead of having to build up in rear of the head inorder to reach a higher hole like some other drain styles cause.
The last picture of the drain on the head does not show it but I later counter sunk the bolts to give more clearance to the firewall.









This is the oil pan with the external oil pickup on the right side of the picture and the rear head return on the left.
I later added a oil return for the turbo on the right side.




Oil baffles and internal pickup.







And some of the inside of the block




Also started to install these....




I hope this helps anyone thats going to do there own build and thanks for the
feed back

[archaeic_bloke]

awesome... thanks for the detailed explanation!

[Jarred]

Lookin awesome!

[bobbo]

I've seen quite a bit of work on this site and I've gotta admit. I really REALLY like the way you do things and your attention to detail.
VERY well done!

[speedfreak]

Been a long time since I've updated my build thread and it's all been for good reason.*
Realizing that the numbers I'm after I needed a more complicated engine management.*
After weeks of researching and speaking with a few tuners in mind I settled on the Sport2000 from Haltech because it's ability to control multiple outputs and inputs with the option to expand..
*Almost in full circle the guy who set me on the path of building the RB30*was re-aquatinted with me after all these years at Skymeet 2012 (Thanx Ted!)
*I also I *met Vlad and Stan from Pür Automotive that Ted works with and I can say that these guys at Pür Automotive are the Best!!
And there passion for our cars shows and extends to there customers.*
Without a doubt they are a great asset to this community!!

With there skills we have managed to squeeze 740whp and 640ft/lbs of torque with full boost of 32psi at*
5200 rpm all on pump 94 and timing pulled back for safety a couple degrees.*



Here you can see the flame from the dump pipe I'm running.*
This was an earlier low hp run.



And here is the last run with the 740whp*





I'm not done yet we are working on getting the haltech to run the meth since the crappy AEM meth controller fried and filled my intercooler while we were stopped for a lunch break.
A serious close call!!*

[Rush_in]

God damn!!