SERIOUS PROBLEM with my GTR!! HELP ANYONE!

[atmguy]

Check all the metal hose clamps starting from the turbo collector ( the silver pipe that says "twin turbo") all the way to the intake plenum side (the black manifold that is probably losing some of it's paint on the right side) You will need to remove the front bumper in order to check the Intercooler connection. Be careful as the bumper screws will be rusted and a pain in the butt to remove. To remove the bumper you do the following:

Remove 1 screw on each side from where the corners of the bumper meat the fenders.

Remove screws from the underside of the bemper lip which are go from the the fender well all the way around. Under the centre of the bumper ( inline with the intercooler you will see 3 screws that are holding the bottom of the bumper to the large plastic engine protector, remove them. Also remove the 2screws which hold the air guides for the breaks to the lip.

There are gromets under the the slatted grill remove the grill to gain access to those gromets, remove them.

There are gromets in the underside of the IC opening when looking up under there, remove them. There may also be up under the corner vent as well.

Now remove the flashers. There is a silver screw closest to the fender on the corner of the flashers. Now that that screw is gone you still need to pop out the flashers CAREFULLY! If you look down in the gap between the flashers and the headlights you will see a small balljoint that snaps in a plastic recepticle low down in there near the outside lower corner of the headlight. Use a screwdriver to CAREFULLY pop them free.

Now you should find the last gromets where the flashers used to be.

Slowly pully the bumper free in an outward and forward motion being carefull to obeserve and resistance. It may just be tight or there could be a screw that I have forgotten!!

While you've got the bumper removed inspect and remove the recirculator valves which are in front of the right wheel well.

I hope I didn't write this too much of a confusing manner, lol! Sorry!

[shaz10]

wow that was very detailed, exactly what im looking for!! Okay i will attempt that tonight after work.

In the event that i find a leak, what should i do to patch it? I heard you need to pressurize the system to check for air leaks dont you? If its the MAF's, is there a way to clean them?

[atmguy]

I cleaned my MAFs with some contact cleaner and an air compressor/tank. Go easy with the cleaner. Idealy if you have access to an air compressor and variable nozzle you should dry them off with it. Be very very carefull though, you don't want to blow excessivly high pressure air in them as you could cause damage.

[shaz10]

i'll give it a try tonight, i will be extra super careful as if its not the MAF that is damaged then i dont want to add to the bill!

I will update with the results later. Does this sound like a common problem? Ive been reading on the boards and also gtr.uk and skylineowners and it seems that people have experienced similar problems. I keep hearing about coilpacks. Could they be a problem, how do i check, or if there is a DIY for that then please refer.

[atmguy]

It sounds like A/F problem, I wouldn't think the coils would all die at once or even cause this problem... I'm no mechanic mind you...

[shaz10]

i agree that its something A/F related but what exactly i don't know. But with the black smoke and the limited boost pressure seems to me that its something either a boost leak or MAF. Tonight im going ot clean the MAF, test it after cross fingers that it works. if not, then i have the tech manual and i will check every thing you suggested for clamps/hoses and look for leaks.

[atmguy]

i agree that its something A/F related but what exactly i don't know. But with the black smoke and the limited boost pressure seems to me that its something either a boost leak or MAF. Tonight im going ot clean the MAF, test it after cross fingers that it works. if not, then i have the tech manual and i will check every thing you suggested for clamps/hoses and look for leaks.

Sounds like a good plan! Make sure to examine all the vaccuum hoses for cracks (these are running all over the place, around the intake plenum, the lines from your recirc valves, and the vaccuum evaperator behind the left headlight). Please let us know how things go.

[shaz10]

for leaks on hoses and clamps, to check what do you do, similar to a tire with a tiny spray of soapy water or just a visual inspection?

[atmguy]

for leaks on hoses and clamps, to check what do you do, similar to a tire with a tiny spray of soapy water or just a visual inspection?

Yeah, do that. I have a feeling that there maybe a larger leak than that though.. but let's start with all the intake system. considering the amount of trouble the engine is having...


I wonder if there maybe something haywire with the fuel reg?? anyone have thoughts on that one? Maybe it's freeking out and flooding the engine???

[shaz10]

i dont know if this helps, but i do know that i have a JDM ecu (Mines), and i also know that my car does run a little rich as a whole (has more of a gas smell than your average car, i was told this is due to the jdm ecu).

But if the car's engine was flooded, wouldnt it start no problem if i let it sit overnight?

[atmguy]

i dont know if this helps, but i do know that i have a JDM ecu (Mines), and i also know that my car does run a little rich as a whole (has more of a gas smell than your average car, i was told this is due to the jdm ecu).

But if the car's engine was flooded, wouldnt it start no problem if i let it sit overnight?

Like I said, I'm no mechanic sooo you've got me on that one... I'm just going from past experiences here.

The stock Nissan ECU is "JDM".

As for the gas smell, my car too smells pretty strong. I have the original Nissan ECU. I'm not clear on why there's a strong gas smell though. I think maybe I should change the O2 sensor as that can make the car run too rich,....

[Slick510]

Do you have stock BOV's, or are they aftermarket?

Just a guess....the GTR comes with two BOV's, seeing how they recirculate the air back into the intake via the AFM, if one of them or where to fail and by that I mean stay stuck open (broken spring), that would cause it to make a sucking sound. It would probably boost abit until it leaks back into the intake causing the AFM to mis-read and force the ECU into Fail safe or Limp Mode.

Just a guess....

Pat

[shaz10]

Update:

so based on instructions i cleaned the MAF's using electrical contact cleaner as per the sticky in the other thread. Let it dry then reinstalled them and fired her up. She started, stuttering like there's no tomorrow but at least its running now. It struggles to idle right now, bouncing from 500 to 1200 rpm and jumping a lot. I checked the exhaust, i could see what seems to be particles of oil flying out the back, stuck my hand there and i had little black dots on it and so does the wall in the garage :S. I recently got an oil change (2 weeks ago), could there be too much oil causing this? I checked the level and it does seem a little high.

so its turning over and staying started, sometimes it feels like its going to stall, a little gas and it comes back but still coughing and stuttering. The boost guage reads hovers at like .3 bar, i step on it hten it goes to 0 but wont go into the positives anymore! Could i have blown the turbos?

[JDM-IMPORTS]

Too much oil will hurt the engine!!! :hit_head:

[atmguy]

too much oil is hella bad...Maybe over pressureized and blew a gasket somewhere, but that just shot in the dark there... How high above the full mark on the dipstick is it?