SERIOUS PROBLEM with my GTR!! HELP ANYONE!

[rockcrete]

At this point I would stop trying to run the engine, do a compression test first, and then move forward from there. If the compression is ok, it probably is just a turbo, pull the pipes off that go to the intercooler and see if they are full of oil.

[mikey]

i've got an idea here, i blew the intercooler piping of my car the other day, i had good reason to get it off the road so i started it back up and it was stuttering and had black smoke pooring out the pipe, i'm thinking that maybe since the recirc's are in the bumper that there all caked up with **** and one is stuck open, that would be why ur hearing that whooshing sound, the smoke and the idling problems.

like i said i'm probably completely wrong but hey it's worth a shot and by the sounds of your symptoms it's definatly an air leak some where, or could also be falty turbo's but i'd think you know if you blew the turbos or if they are leaking that amount of oil.

[Slick510]

I don't think it's oil coming from the exahust, it would probably burn off and smoke (blue smoke) by the time it got to the tail pipe. What you are seeking is water (moiture) spots mixed with carbon dust because it's buring rich. As I said, you should check the BOV's. It's worth a shot.

Pat.

[shaz10]

i spoke with mitch from jdm imports tonight, i got my car from him. Anyway he was telling me that they rebuilt the engine when prepping it and that the turbos were in very good shape prior to me buying the car. The only thing original for the most part in the engine are the MAF's, he's suggesting changing them out and draining some oil(if need be). I think who ever said tis carbon and moisture is right, it was black and had kind of a jelly consistency but it is spraying from the tailpipe which indicates a very rich a/f.

but would that sove the lack of boost? even if it was running veyr rich wouldn't i still see something, it wont go past 0 bar anymore on my defi. Pedal feels inconsistent. This weekend i'll be taking off the front bumper to check the intercooler. I agree that i think there must be a leak somwhere in the system. I dont mind replacing the MAF's but that is $600 based on a hunch that it will solve the problem.

is there anyone in the west GTA area that is mechanically savvy (mississauga) that would be able to come check it out say this weekend?

[rockcrete]

Try unplugging both mafs and starting your car, also, pull your computer codes. If the car runs better with the mafs unplugged, you have narrowed it down to a bad maf or piping problem, it should stay running so that you can check around for the air leak then anyway.

[Harvey]

i step on it hten it goes to 0 but wont go into the positives anymore! Could i have blown the turbos?

Well If you just rev up the car without any load (tranny not engaged and driving) You should not really read much positive boost.

[Stinky_1]

if your willing to bump your rev limiter you can create full boost while not moving anywhere. Its not a great idea but can be done.

I would check for boost leaks long before I tried replacing a $600 part. Its not likely that BOTH mafs would go at the same time. And you cant tell if they ar egood or bad just by looking at them. You can pop the cover off and re-solder the connections. Or try cleaning them.

But I would start chasing a boost leak first. because mafs good or bad you should create boost!!!

[atmguy]

if your willing to bump your rev limiter you can create full boost while not moving anywhere. Its not a great idea but can be done.

I would check for boost leaks long before I tried replacing a $600 part. Its not likely that BOTH mafs would go at the same time. And you cant tell if they ar egood or bad just by looking at them. You can pop the cover off and re-solder the connections. Or try cleaning them.

But I would start chasing a boost leak first. because mafs good or bad you should create boost!!!

Listen to this guy! He's always given me good advice.

[Stinky_1]

^^^^^^^^

thanks for the props.:-D

[shaz10]

well this weekend i will definately try to chase down the leak. Also i will be re soldering the connections int he MAF (it cant hurt), seems pretty basic. Is there a sticky on that? I have used the connector cleaner on the MAF already but not inside where the connectors are.

Where's the first place you guys recommend to look when checking for leaks?

[atmguy]

Um, all the way from the turbos cold outlet to the intake plenum. Make sure to check the recirculators. If you have access to another set, or a set of BOVs then slap them on to rule out problems there...

[shaz10]

Update

ok so based on what rockcrete wrote earlier to determine if its the MAF that needs to be replaced, i unplugged the MAF's and i started her up, no problem and the idle was fine and hovering consistently at 1K. I figure since theyre done anyway i will attempt to resolder the connections and if no improvement i will buy some new MAF's. This sucks, looks like im out $600, i feel better knowing at least what the problem is, well i think.

How do you pull codes from the car?

[Stinky_1]

by that same right you should be able to shut the car off and plug one of them back in. Then try and start it and see if the problem returns. its prolly not BOTH that are bad. If one of them makes it idle bad again, then try the other one in its place.

[shaz10]

okay will do, question though, could my 02 sensors be causing this as well?

[shaz10]

UPDATE:

so i cleaned the MAF's and also resoldered the connector pins inside it. Still no dice. :@ this is getting very irritating. What should i try next?