ARC240's RB20DET 240SX Build

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Braden - Indeed sir! I LOVE those pistons. Gorgeous pieces, it's sad that they wont ever be seen after the engine is back together. Keep checking back for progress dude, thanks again for the help .

Skym - Thanks man, glad to see you're enjoying the build! I'm not going to be building the head just yet, I think I'm going to save that for next fall/winter. In the mean time, I'll be gathering all of my parts (valves, guides, springs, retainers, cams, etc.). The engine wont really be pushed hard this summer anyway as it'll still be going through the break-in process so the head should...or should I say "BETTER " hold up until then heheh.

IMO breaking the bottom end in with the stock head is wise. Allows for a hard break in with no tuning issues.

[ARC240]

Agreed, I didn't even think about it that way. It will be broken in at stock boost and on an OEM ECU with factory tune.

Received good news today as well, the engine will be done sooner than expected, provided that the crank bearings are available. The cylinder boring and head decking will be completed by today. All that's left is balancing the rotating assembly, which should be done soon as well. Hopefully it'll be done by this weekend or early next week so I can bring it back home and start building her up :-D!

[Skym]

From what I understand breaking an engine in should be done on a engine dyno. Most hotrod V8's from 400hp N/A to twin turbocharged 1500hp V8's have been done that way.

An example -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9aqTmsm93BY

Also a Hub dyno or roller dyno has a engine break in procedure if you can't find a engine dyno -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=grEvgBdVbuY

That's good news.

[ARC240]

Break-in procedure is one of those touchy issues that varies greatly from engine builder to engine builder I think. Break-in on a dyno is one option, not necessarily the only (or the best). Most of the engine builders I've spoken to prefer to break-in their engines in on the street and have been building engines for years (some decades). They say it's absolutely fine, so if I follow their directions, I think it'll produce excellent results.

Good news it is :-D!

[Skym]

That's true about various opinions on break in procedure. Edelbrock break in rebuilt Hotrod engines on a engine dyno, etc. They have been building engines for years. Nismo does the same thing and tunes on engine dyno and Hub Dyno (they build racespec RB motors) and road tune. Most V8 supercar raceteams run engines in on engine dyno's, tune them, then chassis dyno with Hub Dyno and make tuning adjustments and test tune, setup on racetrack. Can you see the trend???

I don't think you can achieve that in traffic, on motorway, etc, as the loads, rpm's vary due to stopping, starting, overtaking, etc. I think it's more cheaper for most to do it on the road.

From what I understand engine dyno allows the precise rpm's and load for a period of time to break engine in properly. Same thing with Hub Dyno break in procedure, where you can hold engine at any load, rpm for a period of time. As far as I know that's what makes a Hub Dyno good for ECU tuning, as can vary load, rpm while you make adjustments with 0 wheelspin to get a good tune when engine is in chassis. Then road tune to iron out any tuning bugs that don't show up on a dyno.

[ARC240]

Yes, you are completely right and I realize that the dyno offers an entirely controlled environment for break in. However, the companies that you've mentioned also really dont have a choice BUT to break-in their engines on a dyno. With my engine, it's being run on an entirely OEM ECU and factory boost level (with stock turbo) for the break-in, I'm leaning towards doing it on the street, but I'm still unsure. I'm not trying to argue which method is superior or anything, because it's an ongoing debate, everyone chooses a different way to go about completing the process on their engines. Thanks for the input though , I like to get other opinions.

Here's a little update, I've been trying my hand at metal polishing. It's pretty tedious work, but enjoyable at the same time. Still not done yet, here's the early stages:

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I'd have to say IMO breaking in on a dyno is far superior. The conditions are totally controlled unlike on the street. The thing is not everyone has the time or money to do this. My build will be broken in on backroads.

[JNS Performance]

Yes break the engine in the country, go on a long drive somewhere. Then back... and back again.

[Skym]

Nissan breaks in R35GTR engine, etc on a test track. But I think they are breaking transmission, diffheads, engine in at the same time. Trailer car to a abandoned airfield???

Oh, that's a nice shiny pipe you have there.

[GTRs13]

Nice project!

I have an RB20 as well, is also in a 240, but AWD.

At the shop, I break-in an engine like this:

1.Hopefully you are using a Torque-plate for cylinder honing. That is crucial for "square" bores on a short deck engine like this.

2.Build the engine with .003"-.006" tighter gap on the 2nd ring.
(Depending on Manufacturer's suggestion. I like Ross, and that's what they suggest for 30+ psi of boost.)

3. Start and idle engine initially for 45 minutes with Non-detergent 30wt oil, and stock maps. Or at least a map that doesn't ramp the AFR to 9.0:1 type richness, for the ring's sake.

4.Change oil. Switch to whatever you want to use. Mobile 1, Royal, Rotella-T.

5.Take car out on the Highway and cruise. Accelerate gently, with a small amount of load on the engine. Do this all around the RPM range, even redline.
Let the Engine Decelerate by itself using engine braking. The vacuum helps promote "Ring seal", and gets the bore accommodated with the rings.

6.Change oil again. This may sound OCD, but it will benefit the engine's precious first miles, and assure future miles of trouble free operation.

7.You are done! Take it to the Dyno, and flog it!

I have built quite a few engines since 03' using this method, and *All* of them are making more than 300hp still running reliably.

One pic from my shop. I hope this helps any doubt you may have about break-in, in general.

[ARC240]

Thanks for the tips man! I will definitely take those into consideration! Much appreciated!

Alright guys, been a while since I've updated the thread. The engine is back from the machine shop. They did a spectacular job! Cylinders have been bored-out to accommodate the new pistons and slightly adjusted to the boost level that I'll be running with when the new turbo is installed (torque plate was used to bore the cylinders). Manny at FTP made me a hefty lengthened oil pump drive collar that the machinists fitted onto the crank snout, crankshaft was then professionally balanced with bob weights and the journals were polished. All clearances were measured, corrected if needed and verified. Rod bushings were bored to fit the CP wrist pins. Larger diameter ARP main studs were tapped into the bottom of the block and main girdle stud diameter widened to give some extra holding strength. ACL Race main & rod bearings were purchased, mains are installed, rod bearings I still haven't got around to doing yet. All new freeze plugs are installed, old ones were very corroded. Head & block were decked to assure a proper seal and get rid of any warpage that may have occurred during previous use.

Now...on to the pics!


Picture of the new ARP main studs, I also installed my oil jets (a couple of mine had cracked and needed to be replaced).


Overall view of the ARP mains, ACL Race main bearings and oil jets installed.


I applied a nice, thick layer of assembly lube to the main bearings.


The crank, in her balanced and polished state, waiting to go back into her home, you can't really make out the oil drive collar, but I'll provide better pics soon. Thanks again Manny!


CP Pistons & Spool Connecting Rods together at last...wrist pin locks were soooooooo hard to put in :hit newb:, took me a while, but I managed lol.

More updates coming soon! Still a ton of work to be done before she's running, I'm missing out on the nice weather. Let me know what you think guys .

[J.V.D.Skyline]

So you did go with the spool rods hey?? hope you likem I am still waiting on pistons lol!

[Skym]

I like.

You might want to look at buying Gizzmo thermal intake gaskets (replaces paper intake gaskets) -

http://gizzmousa.com/thermal-gasket.html

It's a reuseable gasket, so when you take head off to upgrade valvetrain, can reuse them.

Or could get custom copper intake gaskets made up.

[Stiky]

Looking good man... after seeing you at importfest didnt realize youd rebuilt... congrats man

[ARC240]

J.V.D - Yeah man, I ended up going with the Spool conrods, many RB30 builders in Australia/UK say they love these rods and report them being very sturdy at high power figures. lol, waiting on pistons for your RB30 still ?

Skym - Thanks for the input dude, I bought the OEM Nissan in/ex gaskets before I learned of their superior metal counterparts :-(, silly me. However, I did buy a Tomei metal head gasket. I guess when I get the head machined then I'll toss the metal ones on.

Stiky - Hey man, nice to talk to you again. Yeah, I felt it was time for a nice refresher for the engine anyway. With the future power figures I plan to produce (however it's becoming slightly debatable due to the epic loss of money ) requires some sort of strengthened internals, I figured, since the engine's out, why not just build it? Thanks for the praise dude, how's your car coming along?

...I haz MOAR updates guys!!



Couple parts I decided to polish up myself...not bad for an at-home job eh?


Stripped, sanded and re-coated the lower timing belt cover.


I degrease and coated the exhaust manifold with some crazy high-temp paint, stuff is pretty damn good and stands up to heat exceptionally well.


New oil pan (finally, one with no dents !) thanks to Kdwebber on the forums!


Got a chance to install the ACL Race Rod Bearings before I put the pistons in.


Lining up ring grooves...


Can you ever have too much assembly lube?


Stayed out until 12:45AM, but pistons and connecting rods are in !!!


Night, night RB20 :-P.