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Didn't get any presents for X mas as usual (nor do I care) so I got myself some presents (that's how it works )
Installed the heatshield over the turbine housing rather than inlet as my inlet temp seemed very low before anyways. 10 dollars @ Takeda Boxing day sale. I didn't think it'd lower the engine bay temp too much, but wow it made a difference. Glad I didn't use it to shield the air filter as it would do almost nothing to affect temperature.
Also first pic of my GREX oil cooler/filter relocator installed. Re-did the lines for my SARD FPR to make space for the oil filter relocator.
This means my oil pressure/temperature sensors could be plugged in and work at last.
The 550cc Deatschwerk injectors are flow tested, so makes it easier to get accurate cc rating to resize injectors properly with stock ECU + Nistune. From what I understand, in Nistune tuning software, you use the lowest flowing Deatschwork injector as the cc you input into injector change popup window when changing injectors due to the way the injector drivers work on stock RB20DET ECU.
kudos on the deatchwerks injectors (i think i spelled that correctly), im planning on using their 550 or 650cc injectors once i get nistune.
how is the fuel rail modded? besides a gold paint job.
I've been brushing my teeth with jack but it's resulted in terrible amounts of tooth decay.
kudos on the deatchwerks injectors (i think i spelled that correctly), im planning on using their 550 or 650cc injectors once i get nistune.
how is the fuel rail modded? besides a gold paint job.
Here is what I did to the fuel rail.
I tried and tried to find an AM fuel rail that is well known of their tolerances. (thus no leaks at injector connection, and proper fitting, no rough debris left in machined surface to clog the injectors etc...
I failed to find any for the 20. (unless a sponsor wants to chime in on this )
On my second gen RB20, it has a fuel pressure regulator and a damper. I went with a SARD FPR, thus required to remove the stock FPR. I went to Ztune and bought two Turbosmart AN-6 to fuel rail adaptors and bolted right on to the fuel rail, removing the FPR and the damper.
If you look at the fuel rail, you'll see that both stock lines lead to the front of the engine, then one loops all the way around the fuel rail to enter at the back of the rail. Stock bends make one 90 degree turn at the front of the rail and a 180 turn at the back of the rail. Both these turns become quite narrow and are restrictive for the fuel. To make things simpler, I chopped this looping line and plumbed right on to the rail so it enters and leaves in a straight line.
^^^ Something we will have to do for mine when I get my new pump in...
I remember you tellig me about this right after you did it.
DISCLAIMER: If any of the above comments in this post hurt your feelings you are likely taking me too seriously; I'm probably just busting your balls. If you're unsure, feel free to PM me and we can discuss the matter privately, as to not pull the thread OT.
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