Nelsonmxmarc 1993 GTSt Type-M Build / Tips-tricks for HCR32 (Skyleezy!)

[nelsonmxmarc]

EXACTLY what i was thinking, i just needed a little backing before really applying it..
i guess, since the bell housing is still off, i could grab the pressure plate and give'er a few turns, see what happens? Definitely what i had in mind though, just seemed so strange no one ever encountered that before? lol

[archaeic_bloke]

well its what... 6 pistons... 2 by 2 in terms of position... one third could be at that position... and that position on the valves occurs once out of every 4 positions (position being... air in + combustion + expainsion + air out) and it'll happen in between the air out air in phase... so ya one fourth of the time....

one third times one fourth is one twelfth.... lol... 8.3% chance of landing on that exact point marc... hahaha thats amazing that you possibly just happen to be at that point...

well... id say if that doesnt work.. then we need to sit down and think about where all this air is going?...

i actually had one more thought... valves get pushed open by heading down in towards the combustion chamber... so when it combusts that actually has the force of the combustion foring valves up against the seats.. in the closed position... but how much force does it take to push a valve open from the other side?.. maybe 25 PSI is enough to blow in and open them that way?....

anyways, whats your purpose here really? is it to perform a pressure test on the intercooler work and all that up to the manifold?... maybe you could just block off just before the manifold? or did you want to test the gaskets and all that too?

[nelsonmxmarc]

you could just block off just before the manifold?

Look at the pictures you tired fool! lol

I did it both ways, both yielded the same sh|tty results but with 0 leaks, so im utterly stumped..

Knowing my luck, at this point, im probably somewhere in the 8.3% error.. LOL

i think it'd take more than 25 psi to move the valves into their seats.. i forget that equaton for that but its like bore and compression and ... other numbery stuff..

Purpose is just to check for leaks, namely the intercooler piping and intercooler.. If i can hold 25 lbs for 10 min in all of my system, intake plenum and runners included, then im laughing.. I just dont want to get to the dyno in march and hear - psshhhhhhh.. and be 500$ down the hole looking for some whack air leak haha.. Not to mention, its a good idea to do this regardless - its the difference between 1 or 2 psi loss in some instances.

[archaeic_bloke]

lol yeee... i am fairly tired a good portion of the time!

.... so lemme get this straight... your pressurizing just from the start of the J pipe to the pipe just infront of the turbo.. so essentially just that intercoolar and pipe work... and your getting air leaking through there?!...

or did i not understand this correctly?

have you tried a spritzer bottle with soapy water and spraying it on the couplings to see if you can find the leak?

[nelsonmxmarc]

LOL

Look closely at one of the pics (forget which), but i have put the shradder valve fitting into the rubber inlet hose that connects to the compressor housing inlet on the intake side.. This then charges the IC pipes, charge pipes, intake plenum and so forth.

Tried the spritzer, alleviated about 2-3 small leaks with that.. Bout all though.. Seems all my IC pipes are solid at 40 lbs LOL, so i have no idea where the air is going? effin strange hmmm?

[M13]

that's not how I'd do my boost leak test, you did it a bit differently haha.

[m_melen]

dude just go into a performance shop and have them test it for you. i'm sure they've done one before.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Car won't be moving until mid march, and i need to have it tested prior to my dyno run so i know its working 100% I'm sure i'll figure it out this afternoon and i'll let everyone know how it goes.

M13, how would you go about doing it?

[Boyscout]

from the looks of your pictures, i would say that your leak is coming from the recirc valve. it connects to the intake piping and may be forced open when you try to pressurize. the air escaping will just come out your J pipe (since that is not blocked off), or into the intake manifold (when you did have it connected).

my suggestion is to disconnect the rubber hove from the recirc and plug the hose (though i dont know if you have a big enough socket extension...lol)

[M13]

I would just connect everything, then plug up the turbo inlet with a compressible fitting (Schrader valve).

Get a spray bottle with a soap solution and spray the pipe joints and check for bubbles or hissing.

Since everything is connected, PCV valves would be fine as it'd be pressurized from the both side, as well as BOV, etc, etc.


This way you can test the entire system. Now if you wanted to test area by area, you can just plug a section then pressure test them to pin point the leak.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Good point, however i DID this, and what happened was that i was pressurizing the cam covers through the PCV inlet/exit and thus pressurizing my oil system resulting in blowby from the dipstick..

For like 30 min all i could hear was .. PSHHHH.. and im like wtf is that from... Finally i pull the dipstick out and a woooosh of air comes rippin' out of there .. So i tried a few times by holding the dipstick down but i couldn't get a 100% seal @ 30 lbs..

Anywayssssssssssssssssssss...

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I owe you guys a LOT of pictures and it will be updated as soon as i get things straightened out..

Today, rather than messing with the vaccuum leaks, i tackled something a little more daunting.. The re-install of my bellhousing... UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHH lol

So from the pictures on page one you can all see that the car is sitting about 2 feet, max off the ground .. So i attemped it again at this height.. Not cool.


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Reinstallation of RB20 transmission in situ.

If you plan to do this without a lift, get it off the ground at MINIMUM 3 feet to be comfortable and maneuverable under the car..

Make sure your jack stands are secure - please dont use hydraulic jacks, use stands that support a fair amount more than the weight of the car.. Jack points can be found in the owners manual..

Jackpoints i used are - 2 Rear; subframe to body mounts (flat plate type thing)
2 Front; front suspension cross member (where steering rack mounts) The 2 front are close together, so use additional support if you're down there hammering away.

One good tip is to have the wheels off, since it's supported by jacks.. Easier to slide in and out in the front and also easier to get the mouth of the bell housing in through the wheel well rather than clearing your side skirts and frame rails.

Lastly, grab a friend.. Doesnt have to be someone with any car knowledge whatsoever, just someone to give you a hand lugging this 140lbs (approx) piece of junk around..


1. Grab your bolts and keep them somewhere nearby
2. grab a small jack to help support the weight of the tranny
3. Stretch.. lol

Assuming you know what a bellhousing is, and a car; you should by this point have slid the bellhousing underneath the car, like i said, preferably through the wheel well.

Now, with it on the ground flat, pick up the rear as high as you can and slide the hydraulic jack underneath to support the weight of it. There is a flat spot on the bellhousing that is about the CFG of the unit, so use this to balance it out.. While you're underneath, get that friend to jack it up until its about the heat of the motor.

Keep sliding it forward otherwise the starter dome wont clear the tunnel and will ****. You'll have to drop it down again and jimmy it forward and etc.

Now, you're about ready to slide the input shaft into the crank on the rear of the engine, you can't see either input nor crank splines so this is where the stretching comes in..

Move the shaft into the rear of the motor. You'll see about a 1/2" gap at which point the tranny may no longer budge, this is because the spindles do not line up.. Don't panic, i know it's heavy, but with a little messing around, it should slide right in!

To give yourself a bit of help, put a few long bolts in the bottom of the bellhousing, at least this acts a support for weight and will save your life if it decides to slip off the jack. DONT SNUG THEM UP! They must remain loose!!

One trick i learned is that, if you use your knees on the mouth end (large opening that connects to motor) to jerk it around, as you grab from the back and swing it back and forth, it should slide right in, given that the motor and tranny are lined up properly.. If they're not lined up, they'll **** and it'll make it seem like it wont move any further. If this happens, keep playing with the jack height until it finally pops in.

Now that its in.. JAck the rear of the tranny up all the way until your support cross member (actually the rear engine mount..) lines up with the holes on the body of the car..

Tighten that section in and remove the jack.


Now it's just a matter of doing up all the bolts. It's hard to remember where each one goes so just remember that some are threaded inserts and some are not, and require nuts. Dont forget there are also some with 2 washers (a lock washer and flat) and some with just a lock washer.. Either way, mix and match until its good and tight

The top 2 are a real PITA, but with some messing around, you can reach it from the bottom, as well as from the top of the motor by reaching down the back..

I did it all with the motor intact, so if your plenum is off or cam covers are off, you're laughing.


I'll snap some pickchas soon and post them up.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Here's my ta duuuu list following February 11th 2010..

Need the car done by March 15th, as the law in quebec is that you're now allowed to use a motorvehicle unless it's equipped with winter tires between December 15th to March 15th..


Fluids;
Redline shock proof - tranny and diff (will be done this weekend)
Clutch and brake fluid - done today

Mount downpipe to turbo.
Finish turbo install - can't get my hand in to tighten the oil return

Leak down test of intake side

Secure FMIC

Relocate boost gauge to upper din slot

finish carbon chibi wing

finish carbon diffuser

Go have nistune daughter board installed with basic tune (to make it to dyno lol)

Finally get a Z32 Maf.. FML, again..

Mount ram air

Make front brake cooling ducts

Finish interior trim and clean seats/carpet

Wax...

DRIVE!!!

[BrianV8]

i just noticed you still have the factory BOV on there. Anything over 12 pounds of boost that will open. Chances are thats your leak. Get something aftermarket. I can get greddy type rs and hks ssqv knock offs through godspeed cheap. Both tried and true through mine and a buddies car.

[frankiman]

knockoffs are bad for the market

guess why trust went bankrupt

[BrianV8]

may be bad from the market but as long as they are there you still get brand name technology for 1/3 the cost.