Nelsonmxmarc 1993 GTSt Type-M Build / Tips-tricks for HCR32 (Skyleezy!)

[nelsonmxmarc]

M13, yea that definitely seems to be the best bet at the moment. I'm going to keep looking around for a place to do a rebuild in my area before i think of outsourcing. Would be nice to go with someone who's tried and true, so that this at least doesn't happen again lol. New would be amazing, but to justify, like you said, 2000$ on an HKS 2530 or something is a bit ridiculous ATM.

Skym, when i received the turbo there was a noise but insignificant in terms of thinking it was due to the ball bearings > journal bearings i'm used to in my rb20. At any rate, there was sufficient play IMO to have caused this in the long term, only because any sign of up and down play may, or will result in some unbalance at full spool.. I'm going to assume that the previous owner either ran low oil psi due to failed oil pump, like you said, cas off the crank, low or no coolant or perhaps there was a blockage to justify starving it until the bearings picked up a small whine, at which point he sold..

Both wheels shattering is definitely a failed bearing, and the bent shaft would have resulted from the turbine wheel getting smoked then following suit. There really isn't much more i can gather from this other than it never lasted over 12 lbs of boost, so to assume a wheel went that soon, with ambient temps at around 5 celsius, exhaust temps must have been fairly low, coolant and oil were low in temp as well with significant oil pressure and new water pump etc.. Very strange!


Hi-flowing it at this point would be ideal, as i can also select trim and CHRA to use for my specific intentions. It's too bad the "South" isn't any closer, otherwise it'd be worth the effort to have it sent or even bring it myself to have it done to save on the shipping cost.. Could potentially make a good vacay out of it heh. Skym, you'd have to show me the car scene in Aus Land!

[kenbeaton1001]

Wow.

According to a turbo rebuilder it's called a hybrid turbo, as it uses another CHRA, compressor wheel, exhaust wheel, stock compressor, stock exhaust housings. From what I understand high flow is polishing housings, etc to increase flow. Rebuild is using the same parts (compressor, exhaust wheel, CHRA, etc) but replacing what has failed inside CHRA, etc.

Bearings don't fail quickly unless turbo wasn't primed before starting engine (pull CAS plug off and crank engine). That's probably the quickest way you can damage a new or good condition turbo in a short period of time. Or thrashing car that has no engine oilcooler and hot shutdown (not letting engine oil temperature cool enough before turning engine off) has caused bearings to fail.

If it's a R33 RB25DET turbo, not uncommon for compressor wheel to shatter. But both wheels shattering looks like bearing collapse on both sides of turbo which is rare. Stock turbo bearings usually collapse on compressor side and get a whine noise (that's how stock turbo failed on my car) but exhaust side is intact.

I would replace the intercooler core after a turbo failure like that. Chances are you won't get all of the pieces out of the intercooler core. Better to be safe than sorry.

Can you explain this whine a little more in-depth please Skym?

[Skym]

It's more like a whistle / whine noise. It happens around O on boost gauge. The whistle / whine noise is the result of bearing collapsing on compressor side of turbo that makes compressor wheel go off balance and compressor wheel touches compressor housing. Gets to a point where turbo can start making a wacking sound. Although airleak after turbo has the same whistle noise just before or after 0 on boost gauge (depends on how loose intake hose clamps are).

If whistle noise doesn't go away after tightening intake hose clamp, pull intake pipe off front of turbo and check compressor wheel play. Compressor wheel shouldn't touch compressor housing and have very minimal sideways movement and spin freely.

[nelsonmxmarc]

The whistle / whine noise is the result of bearing collapsing on compressor side of turbo that makes compressor wheel go off balance and compressor wheel touches compressor housing

Point for point what i had experienced before this mess. Good call.
That definitely defines it to the tee. It's really something you need to experience to know ideally what it is.. But yea, stay far from experiencing that.. lol


----

Another issue came to my attention today; leaking injector on cyl 5..

Pulled it, checked it - seemed fine.

Moved to cyl 1 - leak @ cyl 1..

Tried 5 different o-rings and 5 different grommets however fuel seems to be seeping from the yellow plastic top where it mends to the metal body, apparently this is rather common..

Only picked up on this when my afr's became rather irratic. So if you noticed your idle table runs fine but swoops below 13.5 for a good minute, minute and a half before coming back to stoich, its possible the ecu is trying to account for loss of fuel by enriching the mixture..

Cure - unfortunatley source another GTR injector.

This would have been done tonight as there is a local with 6 on hand, but unfortunately for me, he was a douche and i waited around my shop doing retarded things.. Turns out a creeper works well as a louge! I even dusted off my Norco Evolve and did some good old fashioned trials riding! Nothing like a leaky injector to bring back 2 years worth of mountain biking haha.

...I have vids.. i may post later.. lol

In the mean time - offers on injectors? shoot them with shipping fee via pm and i'll gladly consider..

[nelsonmxmarc]

oh and um, this is my OFFICIAL resignation from purchasing used parts.. Yes, i saved over 5000$, but this is absolutely ridiculous..

The previous owner of my injectors obviously had the same issue, however he never bothered to INFORM me.. It would have been nice, i think..

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tech/t-leaking-injector-need-help-46155.html

[frankiman]

i was just about to post the same link, saying; ''wasn't it because of this you found out?''
lol

at least your faster than me in (1) thing! :P

[frankiman]

and i must say i admire how positive you are through this whole ordeal (shiat)
maybe this week life>marc, but i don't think it will last long

and i know of a sure way to make your car much faster; a front tow hook, get it?

sorry, had to do it, its just that with everything going on with you and josh's car its making my blood boil at the idea i still got 18 days before i can sit in my baby, but won't actually drive it for another 2 months

[nelsonmxmarc]

hahaha Ya i made sure i scoped the site out before making a comment as i knew you'd pick up on it! lol

LOL Yaaa yaaa! Front tow hook pffft lol I've got 2, you supply the chains, and we'll get her goin! haha

Oh god, dude, honestly.. With the amount of sh*t going on with my car, leaving it in storage for 2 months would have saved me a lot of effin wasted time and effort hahah. I think its karma, for having my car out early on exemption for winter tires.. I royally screwed myself.

ANYWAYS! i just need 1 EFFING GTR INJECTOR! and im good to... Leaking isnt too bad, but bad enough to throw the tables off on the map.. Rich as titties, and even worse is my gas mileage.. Marc even tuned it rich, so on top of that, plus all this effin ordeal - 260 kms a tank? mmmmm yummy

[Skym]

Some area's on a car you can use second hand parts, but injectors, turbo are a few area's on a car that I wouldn't do it.

If injectors have done over 100,000km I would rebuild / clean them or replace them with new injectors.

Send leaking GTR injector to Deatschworks, as they should be abe to rebuild it to like new and flow test, etc ($19-$39 per injector) to make sure injector is ok -

http://www.deatschwerks.com/catalog/injector_services.php

I would do that with all of the GTR injectors if you can afford it, as you get a report on how injector flows cc wise which helps with setting injectors up properly on ECU. Also I think you get a report on each injector, so you know they are working. Actually they might be able to upgrade them to flow better and get more cc out of them, but can't find a price on that.

Buying another injector would be hit and miss, as you don't know the condition of injector or km travelled.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Well wait a second.. I had all 6 ultrasonic cleaned, flow tested, bench tested the works.. All o-rings changed including pintle caps and the works?? They all flowed 100% and i have all the flow ratings etc here..

However, is it possible they missed this minute detail when flow testing? Is it possible to have this fixed?

From what i hear, its an internal o-ring that fails, pushing the fuel outwards and leaking from the seam between the body and the yellow top..

Will a rebuild yield 100% again?..

[nelsonmxmarc]

Oh so i called the company who did them. They're a very reputable rebuild/flow test shop here in montreal, however he stated that being sealed, the internal races and bearings cannot be changed, and that the leak will continue none the less as the fluid has been pushed outwardly and sought out any way out as a means of pressure.. He said if i find another injector, they'll give it a good clean and all that to help me out!

Poo..

Anyone in MTL with an injector? I'll drive? I'll include beer..? and perhaps other deeds..

[Skym]

I see. In some cases it's better to replace. I've heard of GTR owners having similar problems after cleaning, etc brand new injectors after low km. They thought it was better to replace injectors than clean them. But they blamed the injector specialist, when like you have already mentioned it might not have been fixable (fault when injector was manufactured) and nothing injector specialist could do about it.

But at least you found the faulty injector early and can fix the problem by replacing injector. Some encounter this injector leaking problem when engine has done high km.

[nelsonmxmarc]

But at least you found the faulty injector early and can fix the problem by replacing injector. Some encounter this injector leaking problem when engine has done high km.

True that! I had a sneaking suspicion my low afr's and terrible gas mileage, on top of the strong scent of gas was pointing at a serious issue.. On cylinder 5 none the less, where i never would have looked had i not bothered to take a quick peak.. Oh well! She'll be good to go soon i hope.



---

Quick question - GTR fuel pump has a sort of check valve in the line out to the motor.. Any reason for this? Any reason to keep it in line or remove it? I dont have it on right now... I didnt believe it was necessary after having looked at it.. Seems as if it's some sort of backpressure release valve? so to stop fuel from back tracking into the pump?

Can anyone clarifiy if i need to put it back, and in what direction?

Thanks!

[M13]

oh and um, this is my OFFICIAL resignation from purchasing used parts.. Yes, i saved over 5000$, but this is absolutely ridiculous..

The previous owner of my injectors obviously had the same issue, however he never bothered to INFORM me.. It would have been nice, i think..

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-tec...elp-46155.html

No, you should just buy parts that are not going to matter too much if they are used or not.

Fueling would not be an area where I'd buy used as I do not know the state of the injectors without sending them in for flow test.


Just gotta pay to play.



Edit:

PS: also a fuel pump wouldn't be something I'd buy used from a stranger either. Not worth the savings when it DOES go wrong.


Used items like steering wheels, suspension parts, brakes, turbo, body pieces that you can inspect are good.

I saved hundreds buying my turbo used (after 5000KM claimed by seller, and was truly in that condition when I picked it up)

[nelsonmxmarc]

AHHH FINALLY. 100%.

Thanks to Josh who lent me an injector as his motor is in the process of disassembly, my car is running 100%. Hasn't felt so great in SO LONG. Actually i dont think it's ever run this well.. Last year i believe i had a number of small vac leaks, my tps was off most of the season (.3!!).. My aacv wasn't clean nor adjusted, nor was my iac.. and my plugs were gapped to 1.1.. Now after reading for nearly 9 months (Thanks to GTRC), i have learned how to properly set this thing up!

Haven't been to a mechanic yet, and she's running great! March 14th is a good day for Skyleezy.. hahah

Turbo rebuild will be done soon.. I expect to pay around 500$, so that may be done soon, or in the summer when i know all the kinks are worked out.. But i think as it is now.. We're good to go!

Stay tuned for the next few mods to come!