Project NashZilla: R32 GT-T NEO

[amnash]

and now its back.. im thinking maybe my fuel pressure is way to high and it keeps blowing out my injectors. is this even possible?

made up a new fuel line to monitor the fuel pressure

new vs old

[amnash]

i have two leak tested injectors here, ill change the seals on all of them, put a different injector in the leaky spot be liberal with the prc.

ive ordered new 550cc SARD injectors by Denso. when they come in ill set the wiring loom back to high resistance and put these in. im tired of dealing with these old ass gtr injectors lol

[amnash]

engines in and cleaned up the shop



my fuel leak issue is back... this is driving me nuts, this has been happening since the day i bought it..
#3 injector is now leaking, i noticed it when installing cam cover.
while trying to avoid this stupid leak from coming back i had both sets of injectors leak tested turns out a couple from each set were leaky.
so i made sure i had a good set of injectors, all new oring's and seals and even went as far as a light coat of prc when installing.

and now its back.. im thinking maybe my fuel pressure is way to high and it keeps blowing out my injectors. is this even possible?

[amnash]

set the cam timing today, it looks like both cams were only set to 10 degrees instead of 15 factory spec.. :S
i used the edge of a piece of paper from the center of each cam for my horizontal reference then used a math protractor lol i couldnt think of another way
you can see the white line behind the gear thats the old alignment mark.. odd.


also, engines going in

[M13]

Blue loctite is better for engine stuff IMO bc RED is "heat" activated, as in it deactivates when heat is applied.

Engine sees heat of 100-200C all the time, so blue would be better. Blue is designed for vibration resistance and will come loose from torque break.

[amnash]

[QUOTE=Supraclean;466132]

You shouldn't need to put a red loc-tite on the nut/thread, as FSM does not mention it nor do local shops.

Follow correct torque specs and the wash facing (it's a conical washer, and needs to be placed PROPERLY)

Ill agree that the loc tite is probably to much but I can tell you 100% that the washers bolts/ and torque spec was dead on used with a brand new Torque wrench. Just would hate to see it happen to anyone else.

Hope you get her up and running soon man, break her in gently:P

no worries, ive got all new hardware on there now, only took nissan a day. put on with blue thread locker

Cool, and the oil pan bolted right up to it?

dont actually have the pan on yet because i have to put the rear main on first(hopefully tomorrow) but should be fine.

[Supraclean]

[QUOTE=M13;466022]You shouldn't need to put a red loc-tite on the nut/thread, as FSM does not mention it nor do local shops.

Follow correct torque specs and the wash facing (it's a conical washer, and needs to be placed PROPERLY)

Ill agree that the loc tite is probably to much but I can tell you 100% that the washers bolts/ and torque spec was dead on used with a brand new Torque wrench. Just would hate to see it happen to anyone else.

Hope you get her up and running soon man, break her in gently:P

[M13]

Cool, and the oil pan bolted right up to it?

[amnash]

ya i have a FSM printed out, so i know how the lock washer goes with torque. but if ive come this far ill swap it out. i have to wait a while for my lower timing belt sprocket to come in from nissan anyways
+
its an N1 oil pump

[M13]

I strongly advise agianst it as it just cost me my engine. Tensioner backed off, belt vibration Sheered off bolt and valves met pistons BAM! Its 2$ to replace the bolt and nut+washer. Put lock tight on it even the red stuff you have!

Just watchen out for ya man.

You shouldn't need to put a red loc-tite on the nut/thread, as FSM does not mention it nor do local shops.

Follow correct torque specs and the wash facing (it's a conical washer, and needs to be placed PROPERLY)

Adam, did you use N1 oil pump or regular?


cheers

[amnash]

its actually really easy. was my first engine removal. just make sure everything is removed and dont force anything. the pics showing how i removed mine is the easiest way (with both manifolds off etc)
but definitely not needed. im putting it back in with everything on the motor lol

edit: to answer ur question about the chain.. you can thread bolts into the front right corner and rear left corner(from drivers perspective) of the head of the engine. u can see in the pics too :P

[skylinelove]

Doing great

Really sick build you got going! very influencing to do something like that myself.. haha.
But im swapping my engine in a few days and have never pulled an engine, do you have any tips on where to put the chain when hoisting it out? im also pulling my transmission because i cant get it off while its still under the car. Thanks! and again, really sweet build!

[scred_gts4]

Hey, I hope you are happy with your new turbo and dump pipe!

For the nipple that goes to the actuator, I simply tapped into my fmic piping...But your solution looks good too

I hope you will be able to make it run for friday!

[amnash]

gahh im just so impatient at this point...
aiming to have it running by friday.

but.. ive seen your thread with the bad news. im convinced. hopefully nissan can get it asap

[Supraclean]

I strongly advise agianst it as it just cost me my engine. Tensioner backed off, belt vibration Sheered off bolt and valves met pistons BAM! Its 2$ to replace the bolt and nut+washer. Put lock tight on it even the red stuff you have!

Just watchen out for ya man.