Hello from XS Engineering

[XSDAILO]

don't worry Eric obviously he didn't read your SS interview :P :shock: hehehehehe

hahah....it's all good. I generally get all kinds of questions, but I always give an honest answer. I try not to piss people off, but sometimes people take my answers out of context. There's a difference between saying what's on your mind and spitting out attitude. Many people confuse the two. On forums, this confusion seems to be prevalent (especially in the states). I'm generally a pretty easy going guy and don't get angry much. I'm really a lot friendlier than I look so I've been misunderstood for most of my life....oh well.

[XSDAILO]

I was kidding. What I do out here is mickey mouse stuff anyway, in the grand scheme of things.

As for your view on the judging, I can see where you're coming from (there is a lot of drama in FD), but you shouldn't have anything to worry about unless you've pissed some people off. It is more often than not very cut and dried who is the winner and who isnt. But oh well, we dont need to get into it.

As far as you guys building me something, I'll have to pass.

What's your guys' shop rate?

Yeah I know you were kidding....it's all good.

When FD starts judging with logging systems for entry speed, exit speed, yaw angle, wheel speed, steering angle, etc. then maybe we'll build a drift car. That won't be for a while because every car would have to have a dash logger. For now, the more you sponsor FD, the more you have a chance of winning.

Our mechanical shop rates are US$105/hour for 6 cylinders or less and $125/hour for European and V-8s (japanese or domestic). We found that European cars are not very logically laid out like the Japanese cars so they are much harder to work on.

[Marke]

Eric

Seening as his has been a bit of a XS Engineering Q and A, I just started running in Solo 2 and wanted to know what you would recommend for chassis/suspention mods. Currently I have the following: KYB Climb Gear shocks, RS-R Springs(not sure which model), Nismo Front Upper Links, Nismo Strut Tower Bar(front only) and a Torque Split Controller. What would be the next 3 things you would suggest, as I can only do a bit at a time.

Thanks
Marke

[XSDAILO]

If I'm correct, Solo is autocross right? If that's the case, you'll want to change the front upper arms for more adjustability and you'll want an adjustable tension rod. The Nismo arms will not give you nearly enough camber or caster for autocrossing. Keep in mind that the GTR's weight distribution is terrible front to rear so the car has a hard time turning in with a big heavy iron block in on top of the wheels (with more than half the block in front of the wheels). Autocross is all about turning in so you'll want plenty of camber and caster to increase the car's ability to turn in. Try +6deg caster, -3.0deg camber, and 1/8" toe out for starters. It really depends on how much you care about tire wear. If you don't care, then you can run a bit more toe out. Start with 0 toe in the rear and like -1.25deg camber.

Secondly, you'll want a big front sway bar and sticky tires.

Third if you can afford it, a front LSD will help the car turn in better also.

These three mods will essentially give you a car that feels completely different than it does now.

This is all assuming the KYB's and RSR springs are up to the task. The softer your suspension, the more the car will roll, and the more critical camber becomes. Also get the Nismo steering rack bushings.

Suspension is an infinite science. There are many determining factors like your ride height, shock valving, bushing durometer, roll centers, polar moments, center of gravity, etc., etc. that can all affect the suspension and how well it works. Of course how and where you drive/race the car also will play a big role in parts selection, alignment, etc.

And one important thing to remember: just because it's Nismo or JDM does NOT mean it's the best thing in the world.

[Marke]

You are correct. Solo 2 is autox.

And one important thing to remember: just because it's Nismo or JDM does NOT mean it's the best thing in the world.

THATS NOT TRUE!!! TAKE IT BACK!!! ......ok I'm over your blasphemy.

What links and tension rods would you recommend? Tire wear is a concern. I have new BFG g-Force KDW and I would like them to last the year. Thats about 2 autox events per month.

The shocks and springs were already on the car and provide a pretty firm ride.

[The Stig]

Greg and Eric, it's a privilege to have both of you on our forum, along with XS Engineering. Looking forward to your input on all things GTR, and best of luck with the XS Engineering BNR32.

[XSDAILO]

What links and tension rods would you recommend? Tire wear is a concern. I have new BFG g-Force KDW and I would like them to last the year. Thats about 2 autox events per month.

Mainly stay away from the made in Taiwan/China stuff. When you're talking suspension and brakes, you're talking your life here. Nagisa Auto, HKS Kansai, Decks, even SPL Parts in the US offer good products. The XS BNR32 runs Nagisa tension rods and SPL Parts upper arms in the front.

Are those KDWs to be used only for autocross? Or are those your street AND autocross tires? If they are your street + autox tires, I think you better budget for some more tires regardless of alignment because I don't think ANY tire will last that long.

[XSDAILO]

Greg and Eric, it's a privilege to have both of you on our forum, along with XS Engineering. Looking forward to your input on all things GTR, and best of luck with the XS Engineering BNR32.

Thanks! It's always nice to be where you're welcome. Hope I can help out here and there.

[Marke]

Are those KDWs to be used only for autocross? Or are those your street AND autocross tires? If they are your street + autox tires, I think you better budget for some more tires regardless of alignment because I don't think ANY tire will last that long.

They are my street tire as well. I don't really drive it all that much other than weekends. Ya, I thought it might have been a bit of wishful thinking that they would last a season.
I wish tires in Canada were as cheap as they are in the U.S. My tires in the States are around $700. Here the best price I could find was $1000 taxes+install included and most places wanted $1200.

[Marke]

With that being said, all of you Canadian GTR owners should stick to professional tuners! That is assuming you have some people up there who are capable.

There is one company of note in Canada for tuning. You might have heard of them. They are called HPA. Unfortunately they have a thing for VW's. I called them about doing a FMIC for my Mazdaspeed Protege, but they turned me down.

There are so many people blowing their RB26's that its ridiculous. It is such as strong motor that there should not be as many blown engines as there are in the states

There has been alot of debate on this site about all the RB26's that have gone boom. Theories range from the Cars not being tuned for Canadian fuel to being 15years old engines past their prime(some here believe the RB26 is good for only 100K and their done) to inherit flaws in the early RB26 design.

[XSDAILO]

There is one company of note in Canada for tuning. You might have heard of them. They are called HPA. Unfortunately they have a thing for VW's. I called them about doing a FMIC for my Mazdaspeed Protege, but they turned me down.

There has been alot of debate on this site about all the RB26's that have gone boom. Theories range from the Cars not being tuned for Canadian fuel to being 15years old engines past their prime(some here believe the RB26 is good for only 100K and their done) to inherit flaws in the early RB26 design.

I've meet up with Marcel at HPA several times at the tuner competitions and luckily have managed to beat them with our BNR34 a couple years back at Sport Compact Car Magazine's Ultimate Street Car Challenge. They build wicked VWs. I won't say Audis because and an Audi is just an overpriced VW. (and Audi owners think they have BMWs)

I don't think I've ever even seen a GTR with over 100k km's on it. I don't think they exist in the states (yet at least). Nevertheless, a high mileage engine is subject to the typical high mileage woes like oil leaks, water leaks, bad gaskets, etc. But that's the whole point of custom tuning. The tuner should know to assess whether or not the engine should be even tuned at all. And then if it is to be tuned, they should know when to stop because of it's old age. They shouldn't be tuning an older engine the way a newer engine can be tuned. That comes with experience though. Younger tuners don't know any better and in this day and age there are WAY too many young tuners.

I'll admit that when I was younger it was all about horsepower. You just figure it out over time I guess. The reality is that there are many "professional" tuners these days. Experience plays a big role in tuning because there are so many decisions that have to be made during the tuning process. If you go and get a haircut at a beauty school, why do you think it costs $5 for a haircut? Because they've been doing it for less than two years. And so have 80% of the "professional" tuners out there today. Personally, this is why I think there are so many blown RB's out there - people haven't been tuning them (or very many other engines for that matter) for very long. With the advent of open source flashing software, tuning software packages that you can buy, and the AEM EMS, everybody's a "tuner" these days!

I'm not taking it out on you or anything. Just trying to make a point.

[Marke]

They build wicked VWs. I won't say Audis because and an Audi is just an overpriced VW. (and Audi owners think they have BMWs)

LOL. Ya, I have the same view on Audi.

I'm not taking it out on you or anything. Just trying to make a point.

I didn't take it that way. I know where your coming from about the whole tuning thing. I know its way above my head. Its funny how many people have posted "Ya got my GTR today and it came with a boost contoller, so I cranked it up and man the car really flys now"
Most of the stories I hear about blown RB26 are cars that never had any tuning here in Canada. Guy gets his GTR and days to months later, boom.
As far a milage goes we are talking Kilometers and I haven't see to many with over a 100k, because the Japanese are fond of rolling back the odometers. In Canada, you will see some real beater GTR's. Today I saw one with the rear fenders totally rusted out. There are of course some very nice examples as well, but most I have seen in person have been a little rough.

[XSDAILO]

In Canada, you will see some real beater GTR's. Today I saw one with the rear fenders totally rusted out. There are of course some very nice examples as well, but most I have seen in person have been a little rough.

I'm guessing that over here in the states, people pay premium $$$ for their GTRs so we probably get most of the cleaner ones over here. I'm sure you've checked out the US forums, but people pay at least $25k for BNR32s, $50k for BCNR33s, and $80+ for BNR34s. No matter what they cost, GTRs are still my favorite though.

Coming back and reading my previous post I guess I was just getting some stuff off my chest. Damn, I went off!

[JZ]

As Marke alluded to, here are the most common problems facing GTR owners here. Eric, what are your thoughts on these and are they real issues?

1. Oil pump drive in early R32-spec RB26's.

2. The best pump fuel we can get here is ron+mon/2=94 octane. Apparently this is still not good enough for jdm-tuned ecu's. Sean Morris has told us in the past to toss out any jdm-tuned ecu's as being dangerous to the engines here on our fuel. There are a lot of Mines ecu's floating around our classifieds

3. One sponsor on this site firmly believes at 100K kms, the RB needs a full tear down and rebuild. Is this true in your experience?

One very frustrating thing about owning these cars in Canada is that unlike the US where the high entry fee into the "GTR Club" has created a lot of ownership exclusivity, we are faced with almost a flood of beaters showing up. The end result are a lot of rough examples on the street, tampered odos, and of course blown engines and trannies. The "street cred" of GTRs in some areas are almost a joke! I know in my area anyone saying they drive a Skyline GTR is almost always mocked. Its pathetic. Glad to see you here Eric and that XS R32 returning some credibility back to the badge!!

John

[XSDAILO]

Here are my thoughts real quick:

1. Oil pump drive in early R32's - people make a much bigger deal about it than it really matters. I don't mean to be making fun of forum people, but I think even forum members will admit that there is a bit too much "monkey see, monkey do" going on. The reality is that unless you are revving the piss out of an engine on a road course where you're always in the 7-8k range, making a ton of horsepower and the harmonics of the crankshaft are getting out of control, or the engine is just a piece of $hit, I would say 95% of the street cars will be fine. The one guy who probably had a cracked pump rotor was drag racing it, road racing it, or tried to do a 25 hour race. Or was dumb enough to build a "built" engine with a stock or N1 oil pump.

2. JDM Rom tunes- Yes, ditch the ROM tuned ECUs from Japan. You will destroy your engines. Japanese ROMs loose the low octane maps (they make all ignition maps the same so the car will run much more consistently) so don't think you're protected in any way. Sell it and get a Power FC or V-Pro. Do NOT get an AEM (unless you want to make a bunch of tech calls and do their R&D for them).

3. 100k engines- It really depends on what you want to do with the engine. Make another 30-40 hp or 300-400? Obviously if you have an engine with 100k and want to make another 300-400whp with it, then you're just a cheap bastard and shouldn't be playing with GT-Rs. If you're not a cheap bastard and want 300-400whp, then yes, you probably should rebuild a 100k engine regardless of health. To make 30-40whp on an engine with 100k shouldn't be a problem if the tuner assesses the engine to be healthy and capable (namely compression, leak down, and visual).

I didn't really know that GT-Rs in Canada are so beat. I guess the open laws over there for imported cars mean that importers will bring over units that cost them less. This means there will be some beat up cars. It's so difficult to get a GTR legit over here that it is expensive. Since its expensive, they will usually be clean cars I guess.