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Oil pump: Spline gear Vs. Reimax Vs. high-pressure oil pump ?
still following this thread with great interest. as of now. nothing is changing because we havent opened the motor yet! I've been pushing my motor with forged motor and a pair of gt2860 with a n1 pump with no problem at a set rev limiter of 7.8k rpm.
This time, I went with a stock pump with reimax gear ( because the gear is 4mm thicker) and I asked my mechanic to do the shim trick to boost a bit the pressure. My only grip is that i'm running an external oil cooler so hopefully the stock pump can have enough pressure to overcome the extra path the oil has to travel ( with my N1 pump, it wasnt a problem)
But to each his own, but I believe the ego of some people are simply too big.. in most case, the powerband start falling at 7k.. so theres no need for 8.5 - 9k rev limiter , except to brag about it to your friends...
Is not about ego, tuner gave me a call saying my setup is still making torque at 8400 Rpms and that he wanted to bump it up to 9k rpms. If u have a good harmonic balancer, crank issue solved in any way u choose I don't see the problem. Where the problem is if u beat the **** out of it and leave it on those Rpms for long periods of time. No engine will survive without something failing.
Is not about ego, tuner gave me a call saying my setup is still making torque at 8400 Rpms and that he wanted to bump it up to 9k rpms. If u have a good harmonic balancer, crank issue solved in any way u choose I don't see the problem. Where the problem is if u beat the **** out of it and leave it on those Rpms for long periods of time. No engine will survive without something failing.
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But I assume that's on a dyno?
From what I understand, more rpm = increased load on the bottomend, especially conrods (including H beam) that can snap when engine is under load (weight of car). Using higher boost level is safer, combined with lower rpm. Or could run on E85.
Also you would have to monitor oil pressure to see the sharp drops in oil pressure when reaching 1.2G+ while cornering with higher rpm, even with the best wet sump setup, slick tyres on racetrack. If the engine is not under high G's (dyno is one example), you probably won't notice it happening.
With Link (also Vipec) ECU you can have low oil pressure warning via ECU engaging a rev limiter. If oil pressure drops to 0, the ECU shuts engine off. As far as I know it's commonly used on rally cars.
Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
got my crank back all balanced and only cost 150 . installed and built my bottom end, fits nice and snug. Havent tried aligning the oil pump yet, was too busy pulling and stripping a boxer engine today. More to come. but its installed
$150 to install it? Does that include modifications to the oil pump (along with clearancing/centering)? How is it fitted to the crank? Keyway, interference fit, set screw... welded?
No build thread.
1991 nissan
El terror
"Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"
$150 for balancing, $200 to have it machined onto the crank, so total $350 worth of work. Its interference fit. Oil pump did not need any work. understand im ding most of the building myself, i changed my oil pump gears and installed the crank. $350 was to have the crank machined and collar installed, as well as crank balanced and sitting in my garage for me to install.
Gotcha. Just so I understand, there is also a spline ring for the oil pump that is driven by the crank spline?
Honestly, it's too late for me since I already have my tome crank installed in the short block but is good to learn this for the next round cause we all know powerful rbs don't run for 100,000km
No build thread.
1991 nissan
El terror
"Built not bought" sooner or later = "broken not running"
yup, i think i posted pics up a few posts, but when u buy the gear set, u get the spline collar, nd both the inner and outer gear with splines for the pump, either oem or n1 sizes available.
this engine should be good for more than 3000km with the spline drive and the fact that i only am able to race 3-4 times a year if lucky. this is daily driven in the summer though. its nice to get to work in a hurry lol ;p
Hey guys if there is any interest I am more than happy to do a group buy on these Spline drive gears can be a mix for different oil pumps eg N1, Oem Jun and Tomei. Min 5 people can do these for £390 shipped. Normally they are £480 shipped.
Ps best way to contact is via Facebook or on GTR.co.uk as from time to time I cannot seem to access this site due to it being diverted to some spam page or so.
Ps best way to contact is via Facebook or on GTR.co.uk as from time to time I cannot seem to access this site due to it being diverted to some spam page or so.
All you have to do if you get that spam page is hit the "back" button, and click the link again. It happens to me as well, it only does it the first time you try the link, if you try again it should go to this page.
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