Oil pump: Spline gear Vs. Reimax Vs. high-pressure oil pump ?

[Skym]

LOL !! because I'm a student on a ''budget''

If on a budget, set the hp limit's lower. Stick to 460-550hp at the engine with a N1 engine, boost up mods.

Like I said, oil pumps are application specific (hence the different oil pump specs, based on the engine the oil pump is fitted to).

Reimax sell a oil pump that's similar to the Tomei oil pump and that's for forged Group-A RB26 engines. It doesn't have external pressure adjustment like the Tomei oil pump, but has higher volume and pressure (the gear is chromoly, SCM430H, 85mm vs N1 that's 77mm or 81mm, depending on the year of the N1 oil pump and 1mm bigger teeth).

The upgraded N1 gears (made of chromoly, SCM430H, stock oil pump gears are sintered alloy) from Reimax are for N1 engines (stock internals) up to 500hp at engine (what the engine is reliable at in a 24 hour race).

Many have run N1 oil pumps on a forged RB26 and found the oil pump (using it outside the intended rpm, application) was the cause of the failure of the bottomend bearings.

Tomei mention why the Tomei oil pump is needed here (increased oil pressure with rpm, etc) -

http://www.tomeiusa.com/_2003web-catalogue/e114_RB_oillube.html#RB26

From what I understand:

Increased volume = forged engine

Increased pressure = higher rpm (or more boost pressure, which is similar to increasing the rpm)

N1 engines failed (bottomend bearings) due to lack of oil pressure at higher rpm with the stock oil pump, so was not just the gears. I think N1 oil pump has a shim on the relief spring to increase the pressure to prevent this problem from occuring. Shimming the stock oil pump relief spring is nothing new, as has been done in the US on some engines.

[teamdiesel]

All this talk about different gears and oil pumps is driving me crazy. I just got a 92' R32 Gtr and didnt know they come with this serious issue. I was wondering is it isnt just easier to replace the 32 crank with a used 33 crank and install a new N1 pump on there?

[bobbo]

It's only a serious issue if you beat the car unmercifully. That isn't to say you'll never have an issue but an oil pump failure isn't like a grenade with the pin already pulled.

[r32_nate]

just for the record, although i havent decided 100% which company (supertec or spool imports) I have decided to go the spline drive route. I have purchased everyhting for my build now except the oil drive situation. Full forged build, alot of stuff done with some budget and know how, and its looking good. I ahve read and read and read and read and read until my eyes bled about spline drive issues and although everyone says "where are these mysterious 1000hp rb running these set up", ive noticed no threads about having them fail either.

Supertec responded recently to me stating they have sold over 100 sets of these gears and have yet to have a reported failure. Supertec seems like a reliable company so far, cant really assume they are out rip me off and blow my engine up. To be honest, neither of these two companies seems to have stellar customer service, so ive been doing as much research I can find.

Supertec spline drive set is made form SMC435 blend and is about $840 CAD shipped to canada. Spool RB's set up is 4340 blend and $640 CAD shipped to canada. I cant seem to find the diff between the two metals, but Im leaning towards spool RB. Both companies claim ot have zero issues with their systems, and one is $200 cheap, so **** it why not....

Ill be the GTRC guinea pig on this and let you know how things go. If anyone have any info on the pro/con of the metal blends and can persuade me why supertec is worth $200 more, I will look into them as well, but for now the almighty dollar talks until I can find a reason not to follow my wallet.

In case anyone hasnt seen my thread, its an RB26, CP pistons, Manley rods, Tomei cams, Manley valve train, Precision 6264, all stock bore/bearings and N1 oil pump /w tomei restrict or. My horsepower goal is what ever my tuner suggests is the limit.

As much as I understand what everyone says about these untested and curuous oil drive systems, I just cant convince myself to pay as much or more to put another uncertain flat drive system in, which is subject to the same fails as stock. Until someone can come on here and say "run ____ collar and ____ pump" with zero reported issues and not costing a million dollars, Im willing to try this. maybe it does work, certainly seems promising.

[Bruizer]

It's awefully easy to sit there and critique the way others spend their money and how they make their decisions without so much as ever seeing their face isn't it?

Just because you're paranoid as hell about things blowing up it doesn't mean all of share the same concerns.

However your input is always welcomed and appreciated.

Hmm true enough, I only blew up 1 $15k at the same place as someone in this thread, so I'm not paranoid, just helping him put things into perspective. just my opinion I guess. If I'm a student and have a student income or budget, it does not compute in my brain to go nuts on a 20 year old sports car build. Id slap in a stock engine for $1k and run er till she blows.
I'm on a single income family man budget so I too can't go nuts on a build haha. No hate, just head scratching.

"builds sick car; busses to school and eats craft dinner in mom's basement" is repeating in my head.... I'm most likely wrong there.


On the skipping timing with a belt, go with a mechanical/geared timing assembly. No belt to skip. That's the pro way to deal with skipping timing. Oil pump splines won't change the outcome on a skipped timing belt but a geared direct drive timing will save you. BAM

[Bruizer]

Nate, I'm excited to see results on this splined drive thing! I was too chicken to chance my big dollar build on a uncertain path... so I went tomei

[r32_nate]

Nate, I'm excited to see results on this splined drive thing! I was too chicken to chance my big dollar build on a uncertain path... so I went tomei

you and I both brother haha

im pretty sure ive decided on the cheaper spool rb set. i cant see 4340 billet being weak.... and honesttly a spline drive system shouldnt see the same jarring the flat drive does, may more surface of contact in theory

[Bruizer]

Yeah agreed there. If the machinist can make it work, I can't see why it wouldn't work.

[r32_nate]

I can't see why it wouldn't work.

famous last words haha.

I will be honest though. the only real disappointing thing ive found so far has been customer service with both companys. Spool RB has been vague, and are on xmas holidays from dec 17 to jan 5, and supertec has been flat out rude mostly lol. I get noting but one words answers most of the time. I wish someone could be helpful lol.

[r32_nate]

well gentlemen my mind has been made...

until a few moments ago, i was about 80% sure I was going to buy the Spool gears, regardless of the fact that I again sent them an email with no response, they were the cheaper option by $200. Then magically, as if out of no where (or maybe he seen this thread ;P) a fella by the name of Younes contacted me back from supertec via facebook messenger and was eager to assist in my decision, explaining they have been very busy with the holidays ect....

Although I still dont understand the diff between metals, Younes told em the SMC435 they use is the same stuff and JUN and Tomei, and they are certainly proven so far. Younes is emailing me a copy of the install information for the machine shop, so I can contact a local machinist to see if anyone around here capable of doing this without ******* it up. Younes also assured me they have sold many of these sets with zero reported issues to date, including two of his own RB set ups, both using N1 pumps with no issues. He did explain a few things he said that will compliment the spline drive conversion:

a. fully balanced bottom end, inc clutch rods and pistons
b. removing the flashing from oil drain holes at the back of the head, and oil returns from head to block.
c. 1.5 tomei restrictor (N1 pump)
d. correct fitment of collar
e. pump alignment checks

Younes explained that the supertec gears DO have some play engineered into them, as you cannot have perfectly tight solid splines on this application. Im guessing this is why they have had no issues, and Tomei(?) was breaking gears on their design? Younes told em the most difficult job for the machine shop it fitting the collar as it has very tight clearances when heated, allowing it to be a tight fit when cooled.

This all being said, if anyone has any serious questions, maybe I can forward them to Younes if I or my machinist that does the install cant answer them once I get these. As long as I get a green light from maritime machining on Monday, Ill be ordering this set before xmas.

[Black BNR32]

what's the interference spec again? and what's the inside diameter?

[r32_nate]

says a preload of 0.08mm on the crankshaft once u measure the inside diameter of the collar. instructions dont list in inside diameter

[r32_nate]

for the record, i took the info i got from supertec into maritime industrial machining here, and they quoted me "less than $200 taxes in" for fitment, and another hour if i decide to go with the added grub screw (doubt I will though). And to get the crank balanced locally is $200, so all said and done im looking at 1220 all done and ready for install.

[r32_nate]

Shipping notification says my Supertec Gears will be here on the 12th. Ill post pics when I unbox

[Bruizer]

Since this spline drive doesn't solve oil starvation, what mods were done to protect your engine from surging?