Originally posted by Rapier46
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well the RHD from japan would still be cheaper if the skyline was a domestic vehicle here... and most w/lower km's just like the rx-7's and supra's... price vs. condition would be the deciding factor imo what side you drive on the car makes no difference.
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Originally posted by Rapier46 View PostLhd fail
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That's for a JDM one. A USDM one will run you 12-16k. The higher priced ones are all single turbo or VERY low KM.
It's not how much they cost, but how much they cost to keep running... remember that.
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Originally posted by falcon View PostI got new housings because I couldn't find a set that I felt were good enough for me. I also got them at a great price. The dowel pinning is not needed, but it didn't cost much extra to do. I am running ALS 2mm seals along with ALS side seals and new OEM corner seals, new oil control rings, rotor bearing etc.. They are claimed as the "unbreakable" seal... I don't plan to run more than 14PSI on pump. I may push it to 20+PSI with water injection.
Taking it one step at a time.
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I got new housings because I couldn't find a set that I felt were good enough for me. I also got them at a great price. The dowel pinning is not needed, but it didn't cost much extra to do. I am running ALS 2mm seals along with ALS side seals and new OEM corner seals, new oil control rings, rotor bearing etc.. They are claimed as the "unbreakable" seal... I don't plan to run more than 14PSI on pump. I may push it to 20+PSI with water injection.
Taking it one step at a time.
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Originally posted by falconProper porting done with proper ign timing, port opening/closing. Good side seal clearancing, 3mm seals or ALS 2mm seals. New housings, lapped irons, dowel pinned.
That pretty much does it.
Then as long as you have a quality fuel system up to the task, good ignition and a good tune (along with pre-turbo water injection) there is no reason the engine shouldn't last 100k.
There are a lot of different ways to build a rotary. The one I described is how my new engine is being built. Most rotarys blow due to poor tuning, running too much boost on pump gas and poor porting templates. Too much exhaust overlap creating higher EGT's.
much the same with the whole 3mm seal thing. just find that picture with the 58psi of boost that detonated and blew a hole through the rotor. Seals were still in one piece and were 2mm
corner seals though much important.
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rotaries do NOT like pinging... pinging = rebuild most of the time... 2mm & 3mm apex seals are the way to go and ceramic if you can afford it and steel if you cant tune worth sh*t
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Originally posted by FunnyGas View Postdefine built right.. im intrigued
That pretty much does it.
Then as long as you have a quality fuel system up to the task, good ignition and a good tune (along with pre-turbo water injection) there is no reason the engine shouldn't last 100k.
There are a lot of different ways to build a rotary. The one I described is how my new engine is being built. Most rotarys blow due to poor tuning, running too much boost on pump gas and poor porting templates. Too much exhaust overlap creating higher EGT's.
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Originally posted by falconNo, they don't. Only if you don't know how to take care of it. Built right they are just as reliable (if not more than an RB26) as a piston engine.
I love the rotarys too ..... sound uber sexy with a bridge port
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