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  • falcon
    replied
    Originally posted by Rapier46 View Post
    Lhd fail
    Lol... typicall RHD JDM tyte Skyline fanboy. RHD RULES ALL!!

    Leave a comment:


  • curtisgoodman
    replied
    well the RHD from japan would still be cheaper if the skyline was a domestic vehicle here... and most w/lower km's just like the rx-7's and supra's... price vs. condition would be the deciding factor imo what side you drive on the car makes no difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • Snow
    replied
    Originally posted by Rapier46 View Post
    Lhd fail
    Don't even try and tell us that if the Skyline was sold domestically that you would have ever chosen RHD over LHD.

    I guess if I remove myself from this situation (a far ways) I can begin to see your attempt at humour.

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  • RABBIT
    replied
    Originally posted by Rapier46 View Post
    Lhd fail
    *cough* FANBOY *cough*

    Leave a comment:


  • aaronisonfire
    replied
    Originally posted by Rapier46 View Post
    Lhd fail
    LHD is not fail, especially in a country where we drive on the right.

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  • Rapier46
    replied
    Lhd fail

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  • falcon
    replied
    That's for a JDM one. A USDM one will run you 12-16k. The higher priced ones are all single turbo or VERY low KM.

    It's not how much they cost, but how much they cost to keep running... remember that.

    Leave a comment:


  • dah_hunter
    replied
    FD $6500 - $10,000 Depending on condition, mods etc..

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  • aaronisonfire
    replied
    Originally posted by falcon View Post
    I got new housings because I couldn't find a set that I felt were good enough for me. I also got them at a great price. The dowel pinning is not needed, but it didn't cost much extra to do. I am running ALS 2mm seals along with ALS side seals and new OEM corner seals, new oil control rings, rotor bearing etc.. They are claimed as the "unbreakable" seal... I don't plan to run more than 14PSI on pump. I may push it to 20+PSI with water injection.

    Taking it one step at a time.
    How much does a decent stock RX7 go for locally these days?

    Leave a comment:


  • falcon
    replied
    I got new housings because I couldn't find a set that I felt were good enough for me. I also got them at a great price. The dowel pinning is not needed, but it didn't cost much extra to do. I am running ALS 2mm seals along with ALS side seals and new OEM corner seals, new oil control rings, rotor bearing etc.. They are claimed as the "unbreakable" seal... I don't plan to run more than 14PSI on pump. I may push it to 20+PSI with water injection.

    Taking it one step at a time.

    Leave a comment:


  • mcfly
    replied
    Originally posted by falcon
    Proper porting done with proper ign timing, port opening/closing. Good side seal clearancing, 3mm seals or ALS 2mm seals. New housings, lapped irons, dowel pinned.

    That pretty much does it.

    Then as long as you have a quality fuel system up to the task, good ignition and a good tune (along with pre-turbo water injection) there is no reason the engine shouldn't last 100k.

    There are a lot of different ways to build a rotary. The one I described is how my new engine is being built. Most rotarys blow due to poor tuning, running too much boost on pump gas and poor porting templates. Too much exhaust overlap creating higher EGT's.
    you dont need new housings, recoated ones do mint, or dowl pins.
    much the same with the whole 3mm seal thing. just find that picture with the 58psi of boost that detonated and blew a hole through the rotor. Seals were still in one piece and were 2mm

    corner seals though much important.

    Leave a comment:


  • curtisgoodman
    replied
    rotaries do NOT like pinging... pinging = rebuild most of the time... 2mm & 3mm apex seals are the way to go and ceramic if you can afford it and steel if you cant tune worth sh*t

    Leave a comment:


  • Velders
    replied



    :wink:

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  • falcon
    replied
    Originally posted by FunnyGas View Post
    define built right.. im intrigued
    Proper porting done with proper ign timing, port opening/closing. Good side seal clearancing, 3mm seals or ALS 2mm seals. New housings, lapped irons, dowel pinned.

    That pretty much does it.

    Then as long as you have a quality fuel system up to the task, good ignition and a good tune (along with pre-turbo water injection) there is no reason the engine shouldn't last 100k.

    There are a lot of different ways to build a rotary. The one I described is how my new engine is being built. Most rotarys blow due to poor tuning, running too much boost on pump gas and poor porting templates. Too much exhaust overlap creating higher EGT's.

    Leave a comment:


  • M-SPEC
    replied
    Originally posted by falcon
    No, they don't. Only if you don't know how to take care of it. Built right they are just as reliable (if not more than an RB26) as a piston engine.
    once you get some 3mm apex seals in them:wink:

    I love the rotarys too ..... sound uber sexy with a bridge port

    Leave a comment:

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