1989-1991 GTR R32 compared to 1992+ GTR R32

[Snake556]

The crank shaft.......

Also, negative. I should have been more specific. Shafts on your turbos themselves, not the crank. If the shafts on the turbos (which hold the wheels) move, then your wheels are moving at EXTREMELY high speeds and because they are unbalanced, they can basically just implode on themselves.

[Nvdgtr]

Snake556, wanna make 100$ lol

[GAWDZRA]

Also, negative. I should have been more specific. Shafts on your turbos themselves, not the crank. If the shafts on the turbos (which hold the wheels) move, then your wheels are moving at EXTREMELY high speeds and because they are unbalanced, they can basically just implode on themselves.

I thought he was talking about the oil pump drive issue.

[Snake556]

Snake556, wanna make 100$ lol

Lol, I -do- like cash, but if you need help, just ask. Don't need to pay me.

I thought he was talking about the oil pump drive issue.

I was replying to when he asked about how to check his turbos. The oil pump will fail easier in a 89-92 if you're on the rev limiter a lot (Not saying 93+ won't fail, they just improved the design). Best thing for a 89-92 GTR if you want to save the oil pump some pain, get an A/M collar pressed onto the crank shaft

[Nvdgtr]

Lol, I -do- like cash, but if you need help, just ask. Don't need to pay me.

lol, Thanks..But im sure you wouldnt want to go to brampton.

This is my plan to check, (please inform me if im worng)

compression test - 150-170
check turbo, oil in piping, smoke from exhaust (after car is at warm temp)
wiggle the shaft to see if there is any play, if there is then thats not good..
check brakes,suspension, tie rods, ball joints etc
make sure oil pressure doesnt drop while going around a corner.
boost should be at 0 psi while idling, and around 7-8 psi at about 3500 rpm.
check all interior options. ie, ac,pwr windows, etc.
look under car for any leaks
take for a test drive and hope for the best...

Few more questions:
1. What pressure should the oil pressure gauge be at?
2. Any way to check AWD is working? (can i put it on jack stands, turn it on and put it in first gear, then all wheels should spin?)
3. Tried searching, but not luck. for gas is 91 octane ok or is 94 a must?
4. What would best oil be for summer driving, possibly a few times at the track?
5. Any other tips to know before going to look at it, or to look for?


Honestly I thank everyone here for helping me and giving me all this helpful information!

[narface]

GT-Rs were designed to run on 100 RON gas. So get the highest octane rating you can.

Check for rust. Rust can form around window moldings when the rubber hardens and cracks. Look for rust under the chassis, side sills, wheel arches.

[DreadedFist]

Tomei pump is supposed to be the best. I've seen people on SAU say that JUN pumps have cracked in the past. Also, watch this for comparo between Tomei and JUN.

edit: comparo between early and late crankshafts

[DarkCaporaL]

lol, Thanks..But im sure you wouldnt want to go to brampton.

This is my plan to check, (please inform me if im worng)

compression test - 150-170
check turbo, oil in piping, smoke from exhaust (after car is at warm temp)
wiggle the shaft to see if there is any play, if there is then thats not good..
check brakes,suspension, tie rods, ball joints etc
make sure oil pressure doesnt drop while going around a corner.
boost should be at 0 psi while idling, and around 7-8 psi at about 3500 rpm.
check all interior options. ie, ac,pwr windows, etc.
look under car for any leaks
take for a test drive and hope for the best...

Few more questions:
1. What pressure should the oil pressure gauge be at?
2. Any way to check AWD is working? (can i put it on jack stands, turn it on and put it in first gear, then all wheels should spin?)
3. Tried searching, but not luck. for gas is 91 octane ok or is 94 a must?
4. What would best oil be for summer driving, possibly a few times at the track?
5. Any other tips to know before going to look at it, or to look for?


Honestly I thank everyone here for helping me and giving me all this helpful information!

Nissan calls for a rebuild at 127? if I recall.

These are all good things to check, however, just know that checking turbo piping / shaft play requires alot of disassembly, and will take some time. As long as the seller agrees and is aware that you intend on doing so that's fine.

Boost should be vaccum at idle, meaning it shouldn't be zero but negative, on the lines of -0.4bar ish (this varies a bit).

1. Oil pressure at idle and operating temp should be roughly 2 bar. Pressure should go up throughout the rev raange. Note that the stock oil gauge IS NOT accurate.
2. Check the AWD gauge in the dash when you punch it a little. It should move up. Also, if the AWD is not working and you floor it from a standstill, you will quickly know because you will not be going anywhere. Jacking it up is also another way of knowing.
3. Gas is based on tune. You can run whatever gas you want as long as you are tuned for it. If it's not tuned for Canadian gas then 94 should reduce detonation. You can safely run 91 with a tune. I think most people here run 91.
4. Factory specs are 7.5w30. For daily driving I would run 10w30 or anything in the w30 range. For track people usually run either w40 or w50.
5. I always found it best to start the car when it's cold, then get your head into the engine bay and listen to everything as it's warming up. You should spend at least 10 minutes in the engine bay listening to the car as it's warming up and slowly giving it throttle and listen at different rev ranges. It helps if you already know these cars as you can quickly identify any abnormalities. This should give you a clear idea of the car's state in both cold and operating temp. Certain issues only show up in one of these.

Best of luck.

[Nvdgtr]

awesome, thank you very much for all the info!

[Nismoist]

Keep in mind that 94 octane is hard to find in Brantford as over the past year or so the Sunocos in the area have converted to Huskys which dont sell 94. I have tried on my way to the cottage before, you will likely have to go to Hamilton to fill up (I had to double back). Check the Petro Canada website to find out what the closest stations are that sell 94, you may find that you need to retune for 91. If so keep that in mind when setting your budget.

[Nvdgtr]

theres a shell in paris ontario which is about 15 min.

but crapppy thing is the deal fell thru. the dude selling it is keeping it n basically wasted my time.. oh well guess it wasnt ment to be,.. ill keep looking

thanks for all info guys!

[Nismoist]

theres a shell in paris ontario which is about 15 min.

but crapppy thing is the deal fell thru. the dude selling it is keeping it n basically wasted my time.. oh well guess it wasnt ment to be,.. ill keep looking

thanks for all info guys!

Shell is 91 not 94 so you will still need to pay for tuning

[Nvdgtr]

oh alright, thanks. ill see what i can do..

[gtrjerry73]

Can someone check mine for me? I tried to google it, didn't get too far. what do you guys use to check? bnr32-003806 thank you in advance.

[Snake556]

Can someone check mine for me? I tried to google it, didn't get too far. what do you guys use to check? bnr32-003806 thank you in advance.

Jerry, your car comes up as follows:

R32, made 8911 so November of '89.
Colour AH3 - Red Pearl Metallic
RB26DETT
HICAS 4WD
GT-R trim
Manual Transmission