Frankiman's street/track GTR project

[archaeic_bloke]

ill just leave this here...

HD teaser #3 - footage from trackday

http://vimeo.com/15234000

enjoy!

[frankiman]

that is uber sick

i just wish there would have been less footage of the non-skyline, and more of my epic powerslides

[DJ]

H8er.

[JosiahP]

when are we going to get another update man!!!

[bellis_GTR]

Is the brake ducting gonna be done before UR2?

[frankiman]

H8er.

when you see them, you'll **** bricks, its even hard to comprehend the GTR is AWD

when are we going to get another update man!!!

soon soon, i know i'm super late

Is the brake ducting gonna be done before UR2?

not this year, got to much stuff to fix...

[DJ]

i've seen some crazy awd powerslides in my life.

[Snake556]

ill just leave this here...

Hd teaser #3 - footage from trackday

http://vimeo.com/15234000

enjoy!

Hawt!

[frankiman]

i've seen some crazy awd powerslides in my life.

well they weren't AWD powerslides,
because, well, for some reason, this car's AWD as never seemed to function properly,
like the torque gauge practically never moves

with my old GTR, the gauge would move when i took any corner or hit big bumps

[TW]

franki, did you get my fb message? answer me back on fb or text, 514.826.0444

[frankiman]

yup, i'm checking my winter budget..

[mitch32]

Attesa works very weirdly, Im surprised most ppl don't even realize that its not a full time all-wheel-drive system. Basically in corners your r32(33/34, not 35) gtr has no power going to the front wheels, when exiting the corner and when the front wheels go straight the 4wd then turns back on. The awd system is usually not working, it only works when you accelerate and surpass a certain g-force, its also based on wheel spin (front and back), and TPS. The harder you crank the steering wheel the less torque you have going to the front wheels.

[frankiman]

i'll check my ATTESA ecu tonight, because i think neither my AWD or ABS is functionning at all,
both lights sometimes stay lit in the dash after startup, about 1 in 10 times


so this weekend i took my brakes apart, (sry mitch, forgot to call you back)
neither the pads or rotors are grooved,
pads surface looks good
i had my girlfriend pump the brake pedal to see the calipers in action



the pistons come out with very little effort, hence not seized
but i realized something, the R33 brembo have staggered pistons, and the bigger ones come out first, while the smaller don't even move, until i stopped the bigger ones from moving, creating a pressure buildup in the calipers and only then did the smaller pistons move
and the seals look very good

so now i comes down to 2 possibilities;

1. the material of the front rotors isn't all that great, has a poor coefficient of friction, hence the metal-to-metal "harder" brake feel

2. the is too much braking power in the rear, which is messing up the brake bias, not allowing the front to work as good

maybe3. front tires were done and not sticking at all? but they weren't locking up?


anyway, last night i also inspected my spark plugs,
interesting discovery, i had BKR7s in there, which i did not put,
so it would seem Autoworx changed my NGK-R copper plugs for BKRs without asking/telling me

anyway, heres how they looked



the tip is pretty white, from running too rich/lean/rich/lean from the O2-sensor-swapped issue

and come to think of it... that the plugs i dynoed with last week... could they be part of the reason i lost 30hp?
haig told me last year that the copper "racing" were really incredible..

ideas?

also, i got my broken power steering line repaired, and while i was taking it off, i found this..



which is pretty worrysome, it seems the input shaft housing/bushing (i don't know what to call it) is broken apart

at least i have a spare rack&pinion assembly sitting on a shelf :P



oh and this is simply a small update, my chapters will resume next week when everything is fixed and i get time to write

[nelsonmxmarc]

Plugs wouldn't account for a 30 hp discrepancy.. Unless the plugs we're REALLY shot/ungapped and etc.. At which point you'd commonly experience misfires, and would have been noticed on the dyno, if not audible already..

The way your caliper acts is pretty typical. I've yet to see a proper condition caliper move all pistons in unison.. And you'd think, well its not possible because the pressure exerted should be equivalent over all surfaces, but im pretty sure, and this is in my opinion; pistons closest to the actual brake line will move first. Only because the fluid is looking for the quickest and closest point of exit/surface area that generates the slightest movement.

I did this the other day to resolve my 'creaking' brakes.. Pulled the pads and pumped the brakes, to my dismay, the pistons closest to the line (inside) popped out.. Sooo after cleaning up all the brake fluid.. I jammed the moving ones with a C clamp and pushed the pedal to get the others out there.. All worked perfect.. Relubed, bled and replaced. Got rid of my creak (possible seizure on one, or perhaps just dirty pins).

I would assume brake bias would only be affected if the front calipers weren't allowing the pistons to move to their fullest potential. As if something was restricting the brake fluid.. Then fluid would have nowhere to go, placing all bias and boost on the rear brakes.. Again this is speculation because im 90% taught on these brake systems, and I have no ABS, and i know you do..

Seized pistons COULD cause what i just mentioned, but you said they're Okay..

Those plugs are pretty white considering how rich your car is still running.. Maybe run 6's and see how they look?

[mitch32]

Those plugs aren't bad it means the car is burning the fuel 100% and the carbon is coming off with the heat. If your gauge says 12AFR or lower on boost and your plugs look like that, the tuner did an awesome job.

Spark plugs if not gapped with hi boost with blow the spark and your get misfires like nelson said, your not going to lose 30hp. 30hp can be air temp, humidity, or a heat soaked intercooler.

And creaking brakes are normal if you have the nissan shims on the pads.