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Spares are fine when they're stock but when they get beefed up, they're too expensive to run spares.
Black 1991 GTR. Serious garage stand mantle/parts car.
Black 1990 Pulsar GTiR. Sold
Silver 1989 GTR. Sold
Black 2010 Subaru WRX. Weekend warrior. Sold.
Black 2013 F-150 FX4 ecoboost. Daily driver.
White 2012 Ford Explorer Limited. Family wagon.
Sorry for my offensive comments, I r socially retard.
start by having A ROLLING GTR then we talk u ******* mofo funzy little *****
so Mitch came to help me out with my timing belt,
and to show off his freshly tuned beast (check out his project thread for more info)
so i got all my new stuff out;
-timing belt
-tensionner pulley
-tensionner spring
-tensionner stud
-idler pulley
then, because i had told mitch i had all the tools needed, he didn't bring his puller
then i couldn't find mine, lost over half an hour there
then found it, but it was too short, so we messed around for over an hour using different bolts, washers and etc..
then mitch invited some of his friends who live close to my house to come by to check out his car,
while they were talking, i almost died.....
i was grinding a washer just outside my garage, using my washing machine custom crazy grinder, when the grinding wheel blew up
scary as hellllll
but didn't get hurt... luck
then while we were working, mitch's eagle eye spotted that my water pump was in fact an N1 pump and in really good condition
and remember i said i had stock cams in the last chapter?..
well no..
surprise
HKS 264 deg duration 9,5mm lift !!!!! woah
basically, mitch told me my engine was in really really good condition and that i could also have upgraded valvetrain..
it got later and later,
and for some reason we could not get the new timing belt on
we stopped working after midnight, without the belt on.. so tired,
i was 2,5 hours late at work the next day
------------------------------ Day 26
so mitch came back on saturday
in a couple minutes, and a nice idea from mitch, we got in on no problem
but forgot to put the pulley cover on, will have to do it later...
then someone (the ratchet) came by to pickup my old OEM front upper control arms
we started talking.. for about an hour.. maybe more
then my dad comes out, hes like; ''hmm i like the gunmetal better''
then my mom comes out, shes like; ''wow, red, now thats my color''
the i was; ''well too bad because mine's white !''
so i got my new HKS EVC-S boost controller out, and we started installing it..
mitch reading the instructions;
then he had to leave for a diner
------------------------------
after he left i kept working;
first i took out my P/S pump
because to setup my p/s oil cooler, i'll need the hicas side of the pump,
BUT when autoworx deleted my hicas, they took the fins off the hicas side of the pump
and since mitch is deleting his hicas, and i need a functionnal hicas pump, we worked out we might just trade
then i attacked the headache that is the UltraRacing fender braces
i started by cleaning the frame, then mock where i would need the new hole,
then using 3 step drill bits i got a nice hole,
the problem is the sheetmetal inside because its at an angle, so its hard to drill through
then i used my stack of rubber to keep the door from falling out while unbolting the hinges
then i found that the OEM bolts for the hinges were a bit short because of the thickness of the brace, so i searched everywhere in my boxes of old bolts for ones that were just a couple mm longer
as you can see, its a real PITA to reach the bolt inside there,
and actually, the bolt that came with the brace was too short !
and luckily i bought the exact same bolts, but 15mm longer, a couple weeks ago for another application (which i can't remember..)
i tried getting my whole hand in there, but its too big
then tried pliers, no
then tried a magnet, hell no
finally went with the visegrip option, which finally worked
then as i tightened the bolt, i could feel the inside sheet metal bend, but it never to settle,
i feel like its just going to loosen with vibrations
so i'm getting nylon locking nuts and doing it again,
anyways, this is how it looks after install
lets just say that, beeing in engineering, i would have designed the brace quite differently to use existing holes to make it much simpler to install, and i think more functionnal too
this is the e-mail i got back from UltraRacing Canada when i asked them about fitment;
Ultra Racing Malaysia tells me that you must drill an additional hole for each of your fender bars. Please let us know how the installation goes and we will update our website to reflect your experience
------------------------------ Day 27
i had a friend do me a great service,
professionnaly sand-blasted my brembos
super job!
and hes got a nice car too
also picked up a plethora of new vaccum hoses, and small t-bolt clamps to refresh the engine bay and properly install the b/c
ohh and i dropped my coil cover to get machined, should be done tomorrow, eager to see how it will look (crossing fingers), then its going to regroup all its other engine cover brothers and intake pipnig sisters for powder coating
and designed another version of my future center caps
i will eventually have to send those for estimates..
anyway,
/week7
yup the 8 week build will need go into OT
edit; just realized i'm not the first one to thing about machining the coil cover..
hoooly god, good progress but dude honestly those fender braces hardly seem worth it!!! what a headache e?\h?
looks like its going well thoubh..
one reccomendation.. DONT use clamps on vacuum lines...lol,
i know ur not gonna agree with this because when haig told me not to use clamps on vacuum lines i ignored his instruction... result, the metal edge of the clamp... cuts into the vacuum line, leading to a huge boost leak, and for me, completely un-restricted boost. apparently the best way to do vacuum lines is,
1) measure and cut length desired
2) spray WD40 on inside of hose and or outside of pipe to go over (this does 2 things, one its easier to slip the hose on, and 2 when the WD40 dries it makes a bit of a sticky residue... like glueing the hoses on.
3) secure hoses using TIE WRAPs only...
ya i know it sounds dumb, but autoworx swears up and down by that method, and after my boost leak im doing it there way.. or i should say, RE-doing it their way lol
also... damn you for finding hidden goodies all the time..lol super lucky!! those are like $700 cams.
The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com
most of those small t-bolt clamps are for the SS oil lines, but you're right i was going to use some clamps on the vaccum hoses, i'll try the method you stated, seems logical enough
and the fender braces aren't ~too~ bad, but they were much cheaper than the japanese options
and yeah, i was pretty stoked to find these cams, mitch was jealous my engine was in such good condition
that skyline is a gem for the price i paid, seriously
love the build btw, but the reason im posting is about your grinding wheel....
glad your ok, I seen a buddy of mine grinding a aluminum panel (big no-no) it blew, ad a 3" by 5" section of wheel hit him suqare between the eyes. hes ok but has permanet damage.
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