Frankiman's street/track GTR project

[archaeic_bloke]

good work frank, how come you're pulling everything apart? just to do a service like clean and grease etc? its a good idea i think, props man.

i guess i wasnt the only one with a gnarly filler neck hahahah

yo! i was just at tuboquip (theres no R in their name...lol)! i picked up my new water lines, and had some adapters made for my oil lines, which were not bolt on despit what mike @ ztune told me...lol im surprised i have yet to run into u man, we seem to go to the same places often.

[frankiman]

did you end up going to tuboquip in st-leonard, i just found out the other day that its closed down is st-laurent

and yeah i'm pretty much cleaning everything, but i also took the rear completely apart because i needed the back plates, i sent them to get modified by a welding shop to fit my 330mm rotors

and is the water line well made? fit nice? how much did it end up costing you?

[Bugsly17]

thats not a bad thing... MOST are like that... only legit N1's had the real precut factory rebar.... mine is pre-cut too, so was my last GTR and so is probably everyone else

thats interesting...my rebar is not custom cut. and its not an n1...i dont think......this is interesting. i have what are the vin differences for N1?


sorry to ask this question in your thread franki!


edit-nvm!

franki is your "twin turbo" pipe divideD?

[archaeic_bloke]

hey frank,

yah i did go to tuboquip, i had to go to the one in st. leonard... mega far,

i paid $250 taxes in. for the following:

- oil feed lines to extended and have the proper fittings (cause they way mine came from Z-tune were not bolt on as i thought)\
- complete water feed lines from the front of the upper rad hose entry, all the way through the "T-section" to each turbo, and to the connecter at the back of the block.

id say for $250, i was super pleased, everything lined up perfectly, every fitting went together as it should, one of the better shops in MTL for us skyline guys.... although when i first went in to see the guy he said it was impossible and he didnt want to do it... but after i hounded him and convinced him how to do it (lots of modding required) he accepted the job and it was finished a week later. (only took so long because i needed to wait for money to pay lol)

also frank, go check my build thread, i finallty posted the photos you asked me to post hahah...and i checked, under my drivers side mirror i have a sticker that says "A6" too.


@Bugsly, well there is one way to check, on the inside back part of your rebar should be a part # sticker....ill post what # mine is later tonite

[frankiman]

franki is your "twin turbo" pipe divideD?

hells yeah!

also frank, go check my build thread, i finallty posted the photos you asked me to post hahah...and i checked, under my drivers side mirror i have a sticker that says "A6" too.

a bit too late, but thx neways

[frankiman]

Chapter 15 - Theworkinprogress, week3, part1

---------------
Day 9

so before i took any part of the intercooler system off, i wanted to test my compression

another quick call to mitch32 to make sure i had everything setup properly



i unhooked the igniter, the CAS, took the fuel pump fuse out, and all the spark plugs

mitch was like; do you know which fuse is the fuel pump's ?
i'm like; ohh yeah, itouch ftw



then what the hell, took the whole coilpacks out



plugs out



then one by one, bolted the pressure gauge in place of the spark plugs
then, with the battery plugged on a 40amp charger, cranked the engine about 5 revolutions till the pressure would max out



these are the numbers from the most forward cylinders beeing #1


-#1---------#2--------#3---------#4--------#5---------#6
155psi-----157psi----156psi----161psi----159psi----160psi

pretty solid numbers IMO !! 158 average

i was going to do a wet test, but with numbers like that it wasn't necessary

then i took out my new Splitfire coilpacks and OEM harness



before and after



installed



then took off my front bumper rebar, and intercooler and its piping





quad BOVs ftw !!!



then i went outside and cleaned my intercooler with massive amounts of brake cleaner

omg alot of crap came out!





---------------
Day 10

i bought some flameproof header clear paint
and painted my cat delete



then, since my muffler tip was starting to corrode, i put a wire wheel to it, then sanded it down a bit, and also high temp clear coated it



did the same to my downpipe, since it was completely covered in surface rust

before


after


then also clear coated it




then waited the night to overnight for everything to dry


just for fun




---------------
Day 11

ok, wrap time,

TOMEI heat wrap
i thought i had 20 feet of it, but measured it and had 36 feet, yey



let it soak in water over dinner



then i setup a workbench, to make sure i wouldn't pour water everywhere
and just started wrapping away

the soaking in water is to make the wrap more flexible and strechable, since when it dries it shrinks



don't forget to put a hose clamp at the beginning



after a while, the wrap starts to get tangled, and its a MAJOR PITA to work with



done, thats 36 feet of wrap for 1,5 feet of piping
don't forget to also clamp the end







then put it outside to dry overnight



DO NOT forget to clean up, or people will be pissed

[frankiman]

Chapter 15 - Theworkinprogress, week3, part2

---------------
Day 12


througout the week, i drove back and forth between shops dropping off stuff and picking some up

so i got my new brake lines from TuboQuip



they reused the banjo fittings off my rear Brembo STI line to make to new ones

and i'm going to say it right here, i was an idiot, made a huge mistake with the front hardline replacement
after looking in their catalog for over an over, we never found 90deg M10x1 fittings, so i decided (it was advised to me) to use SAE fittins with adapters

well fawk me, i test fitted them and they don't work because the adapters are too long
thats 97$ down the drain, since there is nothing else to do with those lines (and they are identical, when they should be symetrical)


as i'm writing this, i already got another shop (much closer to my house, but far less specialized) to make me the same lines with the appropriate metrci fittings

also, Haig from Autoworx told me it was useless to take off the HKS BOVs and put a block plates instead, he just told me to find a way to cap them off
(and while i was at autoworx, the guys there had a great laugh about those BOVs, since they are some of the first gen aftermarket BOVs, old old stuff)

so while at TuboQuip again, i asked the guy is they had any silicon type end caps, sure enough he said no
while i walked back store for a bit, i walked around the shop and found EXACTLY what i needed, wtf dude, you don't even know whats 10 feet over the your counter



these caps have a long ''tail'' that i just cut off
and they fit perfectly

then i picked up my coilovers from Selex Racing Suspension

originally only sent them there for reconditionning, and have new bigger/stronger lower nuts made and dyno tested (spring / damping rates)

then the shop called me and told he tested all 4 (for free) and saw 1 was blown and 2 were totally setup all wrong (they are pretty old, like most mods that came with the car)

so he told me he would make a ''good guy'' discount for rebuilding them, since they were already all apart (10$ off the 165$ per corner, ouch)
i didn't have much choice anyhow
so i got them fully rebuilt, matched damping rate to spring rate and vehicule weight and intended use, all this with new self adjusting valves, meaning my damping rate is progressive
quality stuff, great guy, ask for Benito @ selex

and he also swapped my rubber boots for their own, brand new, at no charge

they look absolutely brand new



with the new much beefier lower nuts



old stuff that came out, look how weak the nuts look, easy to see how i broke one WITH the HKS designed wrench



then i got my HKS SSQV welded at autoworx, also got a cap made to block off the recirc system





already started to ''try'' to fit the BOV pipe, since the SSQVs sit much much higher than the OEM ones, its going to be tricky
bendy bendy, cutty cutty



also grabbed a set of new Nismo rear diff forward bushings,
Haig also offered me the rearward bushings, but the were way to much of a PITA to install in my situation, even if they were cheap, i didn't get them



easy 10 minute job



rest the rear diff on a jack, unbolt the support, lower the jack a tad, swapped the upward bushings, then jack the diff back up, then loosely bolt the support back in place, place the lower bushings (which are much stiffer than OEM) and since they are very thight (center bore), they only fit in place when you torque the support in place with an impact gun

after that, i bolted my front coilovers back on,
devised a manney to realign the studs with the lower bolt hole



then bolted in place and front sway bar reconnected, though i'm going to contact Whiteline to get a set of their end links for the front swaybar, i don't trust to OEM anymore (in this pic the bar is misaligned from side to side)





then i worked my A S S off the rest of the evening to bolt my whole exhaust system back into place, by myslef
i really should have jack the car up another inch or two....

so i put a little hight temp silicone on the dumppipe gasket to make them stick into place





and then i found out (i remembered) that the cat delete pipe came with all of the required hardware to install it



and for some reason, i had a hell of a hard time bolting the muffler hangar into place, one bolt would NOT go back into its hole, no matter what i tried, i even tried 2 other bolts with the same thread and they want to screw in, so i eventually took a bolt twice as long, still same thread, and forced it in all the way, whatever...

so after ~3,5 hours i was done, everything was bolted, torqued, fitted
and the wideband O2 sensor fitted perfectly, yey, i was scared about that...




so thats that for week3

work on the car will significanly slow down since i started my intership on monday, dammmm its hot in a foundry, and i'm not even in the smelter's building..

but money will be coming in, so i'm probly going to sent alot of stuff for paint and power coating next week, and order some MOAR stuff

-Tbolt clamps
-new silicone couplers
-AMS R33 front rotors
-Koyo alu rad
-front swaybar endlinks

cheers mates

[Oakville]

amazing, this thread never gets dull. keep it up franc

and I finally got my gopro, im in love

[NismoS-tune]

good thread, I like how you're reusing most of the OEM stuff rather than dishing out for little gain. keep it close to OEM for the true feel!

[bellis_GTR]

I love your friggin garage! I need one of thos

[archaeic_bloke]

Frank, SAME THING happened to me at tubo quip!~ the shop is great but he kept telling me "its not possible" untill i found all the parts he needed and told him what to do specifically, then he did it! LOL

and as for the diff bushings... why not got solid alloy? haig offers those too! and they only charged me 30 minutes to install them~! i got rear subframe and rear diff solid alloy bushings... there is a drawback though and its the noise i hear from the diff... its quite loud! lol.

Selex... awesome, gonna get my teins rebuilt there next winter probably. thanks for the idea!

for your silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps, forget vibrant, Tuboquip has a full selection of both, save yourself time and trouble and go there, ... its in the isles, not behind the counter.


believe it or not autoworx may actualy have the best price for the koyo rad shipped mine was about $575?

+1 on the difficulty of installing cat forward exhaust components, i also spent 3 hours last night just bolting on my downpipe... my god is it ever hard to reach the nuts AND the have a wrench on the bolt heads so they don't rotate at the same time.... and that RVT exhaust gasket maker stuff dries quite quickly.

would you mind PM'ing me where you ordered your whiteline stuff from? im gonna hit up a front swaybar and endlinks later this summer too. the quality looks great,

[frankiman]

Frank, SAME THING happened to me at tubo quip!~ the shop is great but he kept telling me "its not possible" untill i found all the parts he needed and told him what to do specifically, then he did it! LOL

yeah its weird, its like you have to convince them they can do it, its not the same group of guys that were there last year, most of them now come from the shopped that closed down in st-laurent, see a pattern?

and as for the diff bushings... why not got solid alloy? haig offers those too! and they only charged me 30 minutes to install them~! i got rear subframe and rear diff solid alloy bushings... there is a drawback though and its the noise i hear from the diff... its quite loud! lol.

well i had haig install them on my car last year, and hated it, so got him to take them out

so i asked if he had any other option, yes.. nismo

for your silicone couplers and T-bolt clamps, forget vibrant, Tuboquip has a full selection of both, save yourself time and trouble and go there, ... its in the isles, not behind the counter.

they don't have to exact size i need, and since they don't have any in stock, i can only order by load, which is minimum 12 feet, fawk that, the couplers are already ordered anyway (Greddy)

believe it or not autoworx may actualy have the best price for the koyo rad shipped mine was about $575?

haig actually told me he gave you a special ''good guy'' discount, since you absolutely needed one (i beleive your stocker was a gonner) and they had one in stock at the time

+1 on the difficulty of installing cat forward exhaust components, i also spent 3 hours last night just bolting on my downpipe... my god is it ever hard to reach the nuts AND the have a wrench on the bolt heads so they don't rotate at the same time.... and that RVT exhaust gasket maker stuff dries quite quickly.

i did what i mom always told me to do in these situations; ''Use your head''
i did... as a support though

would you mind PM'ing me where you ordered your whiteline stuff from? im gonna hit up a front swaybar and endlinks later this summer too. the quality looks great,

no need to hide it in secrecy, got them through Alex Canuel @ Perry Auto Laval, thats where i order most of my parts locally
and the manager of that shop is the chief instructor of ASELC Autodrome St-Eustasche Lapping Club

i actually the first one ever to put in a order for Whiteline parts, and because of that they became an official distributer to keep costs down, and they have been selling TONS of whiteline stuff for subarus.. nissans.. evos.. etc..

[cobrAA]

What have you remove frank? the subframe alu bushing or diff?

By the way. 575$ for a koyo rad is a rip-off! I paid my mishimoto 240$ and you can get the koyo for 350$ free shipping to freeport + 15$ of gas + 50$ of tax ( or you open the box and say whatever) = max 415$

[frankiman]

i still have to solid subframe bushings,
i installed nismo diff bushings

maybe you can get a koyo rad for less than 500, but with ebay you never really know what your going to get, and the more you buy from ''outside'' sellers, the more you kill the real aftermarket industrie

[NismoS-tune]

I love your friggin garage! I need one of thos

It's a cramped up toolshed lol. Well, with some walking room all around. Atleast it's not his parents place I guess.