Here's the steering wheel, I wish I could start slapping the interior back together but too many loose ends
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Caliber's R32 GTR Project
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So my hand is basically healed, just a little sore but now the doctor says I need surgery so in two weeks in back with a bummed hand...bullsh*t is my word for our medical system.
So anyways I have been saving what money I could and selling my unnecessary parts so with that being said I ripped the a/c evaporator out with the rest of the system to make room for the upcoming dry sump setup! So anyways I took the box out and sealed it up with some extra carbon fibre sheets I had then covered the rubber grommet holes with them too.
The box isn't pretty but it does the job of sealing it
And got the gas tank all cleaned up and sprayed with plastic high temp paint.
Boring stuff but hopefully the good stuff starts rolling in soon and my surgery has a fast recovery“Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"
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Ok so I'm not sure who's following the thread about shortening my lower control arms, but between my stubbornness with loving my wheel size and not wanting to modify the stock body lines I came up with the idea of shortening the lower control arm. I'm sure ill get a lot of mix opinions, but I went through with it and it has turned out great.
Anyways I didn't want my vehicle running excessive camber, nor did I want to pull or flare my fenders out other than a roll. So starting off with this without any modification as it sat;
Turned into this with the plan of shortening my lca a bit less than an inch, which after closer consideration was more like 1/2" (this is a mock up)
So I had to cut the control arm a 1/2" and reinforce it and also shorten the ams hicas delete arms. The hicas arms were easy enough, just tapped about 3/4" deeper into the bore.
And then cut the arm ~ 1/2" shorter and clean the threads, looks like this
Then the control arm, I had to keep the same sway bar mount points so I had to work with what room I had. After about ten remeasurements I got this
So I went to a reputable fabrication shop and consulted there expertise on the matter and they sent me off with there plan to reconnect and reinforce the control arm to make it stronger than before, which they kindly did for free. So here are the rough templates I had.
And when up dropped them off for welding I got them back like this.
And the back
The fabricator assured me this would make it stronger than before and give me no troubles, I just have to open a hole up for the sway bar links.
It feels very solid and don't have any doubts but I will check them when I start driving the vehicle. I'll grab some pictures tomorrow of it on the car.Last edited by caliber676; 02-22-2013, 11:57 PM.“Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"
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I would recommend machining some drain holes in the bottom plate so that water and junk does not accumulate in there and rust them out. Then I'd get them powdercoated .
Great idea though ... nice to see some people using their minds and coming up with new and well thought out logical solutions.
I wonder if you will have to shorten the driveshafts at all ? ALso the shock / spring rate at the rear of the car will need to be lighter to account for the different leverage of a shorter control arm assuming you want to retain the same ride quality.
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I will have to make some holes for the sway bar links so opening up a decent hole should be good, and each end isn't boxed shut so they can drain. Powder coating is a good idea though, I will look into it“Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"
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Here's the result. It sits with a bit less than 2deg camber and still adjustable. Best part is no cv shaft modification! Now I'm happy with how the wheels sit.
“Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"
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So i couldn't pass up a great deal on Craigslist and found some aero parts, when I got there I found out they're were authentic pieces and got them at a good price with the seller not knowing much about the car.
So I got these authentic n1 side skirts for $125, just a bit dirty
And the side mirrors were authentic ganador which I got for $100.
I also grabbed some of these rear dealer option mud guards off adam@ feast just waiting for those
And now with my hand healing with a titanium plate in it looking like a club
I'll have to drop my paint and body parts off at the body shop for them to paint them up in the quantum silver.
Check back soon for the aero parts and some more goodies hopefully coming in!“Hey, come on, its a car right? No. It’s a symbol of your history, its a thread of continuity from which you came to where you are. It’s important that you don’t want to forget who you are.” -Dr.Phil in "Love the Beast"
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This build is an inspiration...mark my words, I will attempt to rival this to become the cleanest car in Canada! it will be incredibly hard to beat you on it though.
Very nice work and again I'll hope to scoop the AC from you soon.Victory is on the horizon..
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