My 1995 GTR project thread.

[ColinR33]

Thanks , alot of it is mundane to read but it's the small obvious jobs like this that takes the majority of the time. Sometimes even the most simple of installations presents challenges. Not much info on R33 builds really , everything i found is R32 and it's suprising how much these cars differ when you start doing things to them..

When the plumbing is done i will supply a list of fitting parts numbers and hose lengths so that someone can order a list and have everything they need to complete the job, I had a hard time finding facts on this, just lots of theory and points of view!

Mundane or not, it's good info to have when you're working on the car. The hose list is a great idea, that is something I'd like to upgrade in the future.

The avatar creep factor is going down slightly too....

[cortexx]

Update ..

Got some more fittings today for the cam covers , so i cleaned all the drool and other body fluids from their reflective surfaces and chased out the threads in the bungs to make sure there was no swarf left in them..



Coated the thread on the NPT parts of the 90deg bends (3/4 NPT thread to 12 an compression fitting) with antisieze to make them easy to disassemble later if need be . -



Then fitted the bend into the cam cover , it doesnt stick up too high , looks almost oem



and with compression fitting attached -



Happy with the fittings in the cam covers I threw them back on the engine and connected everything up to see what it all looked like and how high the hoses would sit - This is not necessarily the final fitting position , but it can stay like this until i reassemble more of the engine bay ...



you'll notice I have routed the hoses down the length of the engine rather than to one side as others have done. this is because I have yet to install a remote oil filter and want as little clutter as possible down the plenum side of the engine bay, hopefully want to get my hands on a nismo plenum for next winters work . I plan to fab a bracket utilizing one of the bolts the front cam wheel cover to hold it all in place.



I have now just got the oil return line to plumb into the turbo oil return . I can replace the original block nipple fitting with a T assembly made up of 4 russel fittings to accomplish this . Once this is done I'll have a complete list of components needed to replicate the job if you guys want to give it a try.

[ColinR33]

Kewl, looking forward to the final product, are you doing all the turbo oil and coolant lines as well?

...but what happened to your avatar....it's so.....mainstream now....I was looking forward to the next installment of Mr. Bean as much as the build!

[cortexx]

I have a Tomei Arms kit on the way (over night parts from Japan ).

The kit comes with an entire fitting kit including stainless water and oil lines , i also have a greddy suction kit to install that should match nicely .

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-ca...ms_rb26-e.html

going with a 7655 kit.

My goal is pretty clear now , im chasing a healthy 500 hp with the best response i can get. I also have a tomei fuel pump to match with a sard fpr , hks fuel rail and a set of hks 680cc injectors controlled by a Powerfc . Initial setup to get it drivable will not include the fuel upgrade until the engine has been built internally . Ill be keeping it at around 8psi until fuel setup is installed and tuned. The engine has 105k on it and im not about to destroy it. Once I have driven it a bit this summer I'll consider a plan of attack for the longblock. Will also be looking for a set of Nismo MAFS

I'll try not to disappoint on the avatar installments

[RWD_GTR]

wow. do NOT make it go back into your oil!!! such a bad idea. its made to catch moisture and fuel vapors. barely any oil. you will have to change your oil once a month if you do this.

dont be lazy. empty the thing every once in a while.

the whole point of the thing is to catch **** you dont want in your motor.

[cortexx]

Well the RIPS guys told me to plumb it like this , the oil will drain back to the pan , once the engine is warm the water vapour and other fumes will evacuate through the breather. If any water vapour gets back into the pan it'll recirculate back again until it evacuates . I asked them the same question ..

[RWD_GTR]

ok. idk ive never known anyone to have very much OIL in the can. its usually other stuff

[frankiman]

Update ..
Got some more fittings today for the cam covers , so i cleaned all the drool and other body fluids from their reflective surfaces and chased out the threads in the bungs to make sure there was no swarf left in them..

where you from dude?

[Matty]

Paul is from England.
Love the DIY lines Paul. I cant wait to see this beast out this summer. Want to attend some events with us?

[cortexx]

Of course Matty ... and Frank yes i'm mostly from England , but lived in Germany and also fairly well travelled ending up in South Western Ontario

[cortexx]

Update :

Carbon fiber wing :-

This is an aftermarket wing that i bitched about the quality of somewhere else on these forums however i'm not going to revisit that too much here , rather i'm going to show you how i made it somewhat safe to mount.

Problem being that the original nissan wing is held on with 4 fixtures on each side that can be adjusted to change the angle of the wing. I have 2 holes in the carbon wing that don't align properly with the holes in the end plates so i cant mount it.

this is an original wing :-



This is chinese manufacturing at its best (or worst ?) :-



I started off by measuring and drilling the missing holes so that more fixtures can be used to mount it.



I then decide that the hole nearest the leading edge of the wing is going to have a steel 1/4 inch bar running through the entire wing to be held at each end with a locknut , here is the bar being measured :-



and marked / cut in a vice with a hacksaw :-



Used a tap to cut a new thread on each end of the new bar :-



then cleaned it up and test fitted niloc nuts :-



On closer examination of the original wing it had a row of open holes on the underside of each end . I figure they are for drainage incase rain gets inside the wing so I make the same hols on the new wing - tape first so that the gel coat doesnt crack or chip and the weave of the carbon or GRP does not twist around the drill bit :-



drilled with a brand new and very sharp bit :-



Next , peeled the tape off and cleaned up the hole with a dremel -



at this point I noticed that the wing thickness varies alot , the material thickness on one side was a thick 4mm while the other end of the wing was slightly less than 1mm as you can see from the following pictures :-





I was now at the point where I had to pass the steel bar through the wing and mount it. Let me tell ya that trying to get the bar out of the other side is a pain so here is a tip on how to use a folded ziptie to help :-



I passed the folded ziptie in through the drain hole i had made on the underside of the wing and then pushed it to expand it around the inside wing profile . The ziptie kind of looks like this but inside the wing :-



Once expanded like this was easily able to pass the rod down and catch it with the ziptie by pulling the excess tie back out of the hole like this :-



once captured it was easy to move it in position to push it through the end of the wing :-



Time to install wing to the car, on each end you will notice a locknut for the bar , 1 security screw and 2 , 2 inch hex cap ends. The reason I am using 2 inch capheads is because tapping into resin is not exactly as strong as tapping into a steel insert. I am expecting them to back themselves out. If this happens they will back out as far as the cap head hits the cover and will still have about an inch of threaded screw left in the wing hopefully stopping it break away. The one security fitting is just to stop theft .

The bar itself pulls the ends together and serves 2 purposes.

1: it closes the gap at the ends of the wing ( this wing was not as wide as the original) when the nuts are torqued.

2: it ensures that the wing will not be able to detach itself and fly off into orbit , at least it will have to break into smaller pieces to come away completely.

here is the mounting :-







If you are observant you will notice a slight hazing , almost milky look to the carbon finish. This is caused by the use of polyester resin in the construction . Most carbon fiber is composed of Epoxy resin, Epoxy resin is much harder and is also completely transparent, polyester resin is softer and is not 100% transparent giving the milky look.

If you buy carbon fibre parts ask the seller what type of resin is used , I didn't realise this myself until recently after doing some research myself .

I pick my Seibon hood up tommorrow , cant wait to fit it , it's a Jun style GTR hood that should match the repro Jun lip i have going on the front ... more to come soon !

[93VSpec]

Great build thread Paul, just read through the whole thing. Keep them coming, as the tips you gave me have been working out so far.

[cortexx]

Update:-

Well I havnt been able to do much work on the car over the last 3 weeks because I had some minor back surgery and figured as they were going to put me out totally to do it , i'd have them give me the "snip" while i was knocked out because if they attempt that while i'm awake , it's possible the surgeon might not make it through the procedure . So for anyone who decides to follow this example please take my advice not to because not being able to lie on my back or my front for 3 days made my wifes life miserable as hell during the night !

So back to brass tacks , got my Seibon hood and an assortment of other goodies I have been waiting for . Fitted the hood , took about 5 minutes and it looked amazing , fitted like a glove as you can see from the following pic :-



It looks so mean even the cat passed out from a boner :-

[cortexx]

I then unpacked the rest of the parts and checked everything out before planning what to install next .

Here you'll see the following :-

Greddy suction kit
Trust downpipe
Tomei Expreme exhaust manifolds
Tomei expreme dump pipes
N1 water pump
Tomei cam belt
Tomei Arms complete turbo kit (7655 ver)
Apexi Power FC
Apexi AVC-r
Innovate wideband kit
HKS fuel rail
HKS 680cc injectors
Sard type RJ FPR
Tomei fuel pump





I also have to install the defi gauges , and some other interior stuff . This is going to wait until i am a little more healed as lounging around the inside of the car is a bit uncomfortable atm.

I am going to attempt a step by step for the turbo kit as the tomei instructions are pretty vague on how to route the stainless lines etc . hopefully this will be useful to anyone else that buys these things

[ColinR33]

Damn, I wish I had that kind of money to put into mine! Lots of sweetness.