My 1995 GTR project thread.

[nimblestix]

mine is setup like the top pic without issues.... which is incorrect?

[cortexx]

actually guys the egine shot with the plenum was taken earlier , the top picture is the correct way as the fan pillar fits into the depressed part of the pulley - onthe earlier pic it was just sitting there not attached for the shot lol .

[MarusGTR]

Ah figures, wasn't sure which of the two was the right one, should of figured that the recess would of pointed towards the interior like the OEM WP pulley.

Don't let my post distract you from the fact your build is awesome btw

[burton160]

Wow just read the whole thread! Absolutely amazing! Where did you get the carbon fibre wraping?

[cortexx]

Thanks for the praise - it keeps my enthusiasm up

Umm if you mean the carbon wrap on the dash - it is dynoc dry carbon textured to look like real carbon (which it does) .

Mine is coming out soon because after about a year since install it bubbles , cracks and even peels off in some curved areas when left in the summer sun . Don't do it , i think im going to cloth or leather wrap the dash instead .

[R33-East]

Yeah mine went the same way, it looked great until we got a few hot days then it began to peel up around my clock, vents, etc.

I may also take it off this winter, I really like the look but it just doesn't hold up.

[ColinR33]

Huh, had mine for two years, no bubbles yet (knock on wood!).

[cortexx]

Thats because you live in Alberts where it either snows or rains lol

[ColinR33]

Hah! Been doing both the last couple of days.

[cortexx]

So as i sit here with an endless river of snot dribbling down my upper lip due to some nasty shite i picked up over the last few days i figured it was not a workshop night , but is a thread update night ...

Had a bit of drama last week - was driving home not clothed appropriately for the cooler weather so i had the heating cranked full blast in the GTR for the 60klm drive home . First time I have ever really used the heating, i usually whip along with the windows open no matter what the temp because i love the freshair however .....

I get about 5 klm away from my home and a nasty burning stink made its presence known the same instant the stereo decided to stop playing my Abba's greatest hits cd - after about another 15 seconds i had smoke on the inside of the car so I pulled over , opened the trunk and disconnected the battery. Called CAA and had them pull me the last 5klm home.

I pushed it into the workshop and pulled the center dash cover out to inspect the source of the smoke and found a bunch of wires from the stereo loom with unravelled electrical tape and melted wiring . Being extremely pissed off i went to bed and didn't touch it for a few days until I had calmed down a bit.

As i started to pull things apart it was obvious that the wiring to the stereo loom had been horribly installed . The Nissan plugs had been cut from the loom and the wiring loom for the stereo had been twisted together and wrapped with cheap electrical tape (the shiney stuff - the good stuff is a matt colour) . With 2 years of hot summer days and finally the coup de Grace of me blasting the heating system had softened the glue and the tape had unravelled exposing the wiring which shorted together and melted the wires insulation before blowing 2 fuses.

I removed the now dead stereo and cut back the wiring to remove all the crappy section and then traced 2 wires back to the main loom that had melted. I replaced the fuses to bring the accessories back to life and with the help of my meter determined that the live wires that feed the stereo loom were now not shorting as they held a constant 12v . The problem i had is that these 2 wires were melted all the way up into the loom and i couldn't leave them like this.


I came home the next day early and had the entire dash removed in about 3 hours so that I could get to everything. I cut the binding on the main loom and traced/pulled the 2 offending wires out of the system right back to the fuse box and found to my horror that nissan has a live 12 volt feed directly from the battery circuit unfused WTFARK - fire waiting to happen . BTW you all have this , the wire colour is red with a white stripe and silver coloured bands around it . I removed this wire completely at the fuse box where it originates and then ran a replacement wire from the original fused location through the loom back to the stereo . This time it's fused with a 10 amp blade.


I then ziptied the loom closed in various places and went out and bought a new Kenwood cd player for the dash. This time I soldered all wiring and double heatshrunk it all so it was safe , the excess length was folded and heatshrunk into neat bundles so that it can't get into trouble.

I can't believe someone chopped the original loom for the sake of a $10 conversion loom. And i can't believe I didn't pull it all apart and check it all when i had the dash apart to run my defi gauge loom last year. I knew I should have , next time i'll follow my instincts.

By 2:30 am I had the complete dash all back together and everything functioning again an drove it out of the workshop.

why are there no pictures of this ? Well I was worried about the damaged and was not in the mood to take pictures - rather wanted to know the outcome and just get it repeaired . I( guess this isn't really part of the build but it serves as a warning to others on how not to install a stereo so I decided to cover it here anyway ....

[cortexx]

But on with the fun stuff ....

I finally got around to pick up another batch of allen headed bolts for further engine assembly . Had now got the right lengths to mount the intake manifold properly to the head . People ask why do i pprefer them .....

The main reason is that a good set of allen drivers rival a socket for ability to not so easily strip the head. The allen headed driver set i have has a balled shaft meaning that in hard to get at places i have the ability to tilt the drive up to 40 degrees without compromising the integrity or the head or reducing the torque load like i would by using a UJ in on a socket. They also look cleaner and take up slightly less room in tight places.



I then installed the Tomei stainless ITB gaskets and threw on a couple of the ITB's to see what it looked like



Aty this point the ITBS are coming back off to finish being rebuilt . The plastic sheaths that the springs are mounted on near the spindle outputs are old , broken and in need or replacement. They are not available from nissan or from anywhere else for that matter so i decided to make my own .

This is the part i am talking about :-




You can see the missing chunks , these 2 were the best of the 6 that need to be replaced.

I am making them out of Techtron HPV PPS round bar which is a great polymer for this type of usage. I use a lathe to turn the bar down to the flanges you see above ..




I'll post pictures of the finished pieces on my next update , they are not finished yet due to the fact i lost the parting tool i use to slice them off the bar which requires a trip to busy bee when i'm not sick.

[cortexx]

With a little discomfort i remove the lock pin on the engine stand and span the assembly 180 degrees to give me access to the bottom end ....




You can see where and how much material was removed from the crank during the balancing process by the machine shop. This is the last look inside before it gets covered forever (or until i blow it up and need to rebuild it again). Here is the best rod bolt in the business




The windage baffle trays degreased , ultrasonic cleaned and installed .....




Incidentally if anyone can tell me what the second row of small holes around the oil pan are for i'll be eternally grateful Although i had the original fasteners for the trays i ditched them in favour of more allen headed bolts instead .

Its worth pricing out prts from Nissan while doing this king of work, this unit was picked up for $28 brand new in box. For the price it was a no brainer if only to avoid using a used one that might have some unseen debris lurking in it somewhere.



Now I looked at the Nissan Fast pages and also the rb26 engine manual. Interestingly one shows a gasket and the other showed an O-ring and i'm not sure why . The gasket kit came with both so i used a gasket for installation but that might change before pan installation with more research .



And this is where i left it ready for the rear crank seal install and pan install ....




You'll also notice the furl rail is now on - here was that assembly :-

HKS 10.5mm fuel rail with a set of 680cc HKS injectors shoehorned into them. (Incidentally the HKS denso 680's are identical to the greddy/trust 720 injectors - wonder who is telling lies on their flow rates ?)



I also noted that once mounted the injectors while tight did not seat firmly on the o-rings in the intake manifold , wondering if this is normal ? or maybe i have to machine the HKS mounting posts to drop the injector into the intake a bit further to seat the oring a little tighter in the manifold - input from you guys would be appreciated

Also replaced the earlier thermostat housing and top rad hose casting pieces i cleaned a while back with ones with less corrosion damage on them . While the originals would more than likely seal I myself would know that they were badley corroded and would regret using sub-par pieces in my build so Vlad came up with some more pieces that were cleaned ultrasonically






30 minutes later in the tank with my new chemicals I got the following results :-









Its the cleanest you can get them without replacing them with new pieces.

Incidentally - we are currently equipping a lab in Brantford that will specialize in Ultrasonic cleaning and will offer this to anyone who needs the service. We will eventually be able to clean rims , engine blocks . A weekly pickup/delivery service will be offered for anyone in the Toronto area .. Ill post the details somewhere else when the time comes..


should have more updates next week - time to sleep off this cold ... caio

[bellis_GTR]

Bloody awesome craftsmanship!! I feel daft for not coming to see this in person, being so close. I'm sure I'll see in the spring tho!

p.s
Love the detailed pictures!

[Phastwon]

Looking great Paul. You are really going all out on this thing.

[cortexx]

Thanks Jeurgen

Well one things leads to another and having gone to the effort of buying decent parts i might just as well make sure everything is as good as new as it goes together ... It's funny how some of the simplist tasks take the longest though..

Looking great Paul. You are really going all out on this thing.