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are all these also recomended while keeping the motor stock, or after you start modifying.
im planning on getting a gtr this winter, ill try to get the best possible condition, but id like to know if i should do all these right away, or when i start modifying.
its important to know cause i might keep my current car a bit longer until i finish the motor on the gtr. you see the skyline will have to be my only car for one to one and a half year.
any feedback would be appreciated.
thanks
are all these also recomended while keeping the motor stock, or after you start modifying.
im planning on getting a gtr this winter, ill try to get the best possible condition, but id like to know if i should do all these right away, or when i start modifying.
If the car is fine, oil pressure fine. No weirdness, then you can leave it until you start to modify it.
GT-Rs will last a long time if you dont beat them to death. Dont do anything silly in the car, dont go to the track every weekend. Don't try and win every stoplight dragrace.
I would recommend stockpiling parts. Get the parts ready to go in the car.
I wonder if a deeper oil pump gear would solve this rather than replacing the crank?
could you install a new oil pump without tearing down the motor?
I understand the problem is with the connection of the drive to the crank. The early ones are 1/2 inch wide, the 'fix' is 1 inch wide. You can change the oil pump without pulling the engine, but the jury is out on whether that's actually any easier. The main problem is that you have to mod the crank to fix the drive issue.
I've chosen to run 10W30 and limit revs to 7500 as drive failure is most likely to be driven by torsional overload. Pump torque is driven by K * pressure drop * flow rate. Keep the pressure drop modest by not running heavy oil and limit the flow to that produced by reasonable rpms. As I write this I'm realizing that crank torsional vibration will contribute to oil pump drive fatigue. I should be looking at a crank damper as well.
JZ do you have one in your bottomless parts bin? I'll buy it!
is there just no room or way to mod the oil pump drive gear to engage the crank more?
I've not had one apart, but I understand you need access to the end of the crank to get the gear on and off. The fix for a narrow drive crank involves machining the crank. I've seen a description of the retrofit somewhere, but I'm not sure where right now.
I'd probably look for a car with that fix and a rebuild already done if I was doing it again. The flip side, which has been discussed quite a bit around here, is to buy a miled out car that has a decent body, interior, etc and budget a rebuild into the original purchase committment.
Thank you for the response Dan. I was hoping to hear from someone that has been inside the motor and seen the engagement problem.
Is there any reason why the gear couldn't be modified to increase engagement with the crank? Is there a lip seal in the way or just no physical room?
The reason I ask is that we have custom gear pump gears made for high pressure fuel applications and it may be possible to make a new gear for the oil pump that sticks out further to engage the crank deeper.
Would this even save any hassle? Can you change the oil pump without pulling the crank or rebuilding the motor?
I had discussed this issue with my mehcanic at Zele/Nismo and he assured me that there is nothing to worry about! Keep in mind guys that your GTR has been running like that for 15 years without problems, so I don't see why it would become an issue just now. Plus how many of you guys had suffered engine failure on your GTR because of this?
Plus how many of you guys had suffered engine failure on your GTR because of this?
Probably nobody in Canada yet - but that is not really the issue. It is a mod that the "experts" have indicated SHOULD be done WHEN you are rebuilding the motor since it was identified as an engineering problem with the early RB26DETT's. That is why Nissan modified the cranks to correct it in the 1993 & on production runs. I looked at Farmer's RB26DETT when he had it apart and the oil pump drive boss on the crank definitely showed signs of significant wear (rounding of the edges of the flats). In extreme cases, this could cause the crank to spin without turning the oild pump drive gear - immediate loss of oil pressure and boom, there goes your motor. He had a new boss machined up and installed on his crank by a local (competent) machine shop.
Does this seem like a solution, or just a temporary fix until you can get a rebuild? I would like to change my stock pump out for an N1 or a JUN, but I won't do it if it will still have drive issues.
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