Originally posted by archaeic_bloke
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REIMAX (Collar clearances, pics)
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Originally posted by jdms13rhd View Postyep^^
I've been saying whats been said since 2007. Just look at the posts ive made over the years in other sticky threads in this forum. Its only been since recently that people take note of it. Too bad jun/nissan cant figure this out :S Dont need to be smart to know its just a sloppy design.
to vaderj: Its cheaper to replace a collar that machine a new pump gear. Also, with a collar built, it would suite most pumps (jun, OEM//N1 + more Im sure) So if you wanted to upgrade to a better pump, you could do so. or you can machine a new gear each time like you said.
If you guys have time, take another read at my f/s thread. Ive updated a bit ago with lots of easier to understand info. Its over 2000 words to read :
I still think a 2J style drive would be best is you were to even consider making a new custom gear set. Screw this 2 flat drive style. Then, you can use the oem pump, slap in the new 4140 alloy gears with a 2J drive collar. 3 pieces, hopefully cheap enough most us guys can afford it. Its something ive been wanting to do for over 4 years. Id jump right on it but it takes capitol to get it done and I just dont have any. I dont want to jump into it and have to wait a year to get my investment back. if anyone wants to sponsor this, i can get a quote within a week. Have everything drafted a couple weeks after and do a small production to start. Then need people to try em out. If everything works well, do a larger production and then cheap gears and collars for everyone! I already have the plan, just need to pick a pump style and send the info to get a program built for the CNC then go from there.oh hai!
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Originally posted by Black BNR32 View Posti believe the forces are not high enough. even if deformation occurs in this application, it is likely in the .0001 magnitude.
I'll get the engineering equation this weekend and if I can figure out the math, Ill prove to everyone with professional reference. End one more debate.ALLEN PETERSEN
Number (604) 961-2449
4XTOYS/ Lower Mainland Skyline Service and aftermarket RB parts.
RB30`s for sale!
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Originally posted by Black BNR32 View PostAllen, I'd happilly do the engineering and drafting for free.ALLEN PETERSEN
Number (604) 961-2449
4XTOYS/ Lower Mainland Skyline Service and aftermarket RB parts.
RB30`s for sale!
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Originally posted by jdms13rhd View PostThat doesn't make any sense. Ive been talking to archaeic_bloke. I was telling him that there is an engineering equation to prove two theories. One for the difference in stress put on the pump with loose clearance and then with tight clearance. Believe me, there is more stress put on the pump with loose clearances. Plus, how would the drive round off when its tight. Another, is the percentage of area used and that used with the amount of load the pump sees using both loose and tight clearances. .002 is damn tight! if your oil pump has been used, its actually an almost press fit with the collars I made. With that said, its as little stress that design will see.
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You are correct in that a loose fit creates more stress as a shock load is introduced.oh hai!
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Originally posted by Brando13 View Postwhat would happen if you took the time to spline it on instead of the flat surfaces? sorry if i took a swing and missed but that seems like the obvious answer to me....Last edited by Black BNR32; 03-05-2011, 01:58 AM.oh hai!
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Originally posted by Black BNR32 View PostI believe that deformation (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deformation_(engineering)) is not occuring, as Josh claims.
You are correct in that a loose fit creates more stress as a shock load is introduced.
I just figured since there is less stress with tight clearances that would practically eliminate any chance of the drive and gear deforming from slamming the pump gear. Because, from what I see, with loose clearances the drive and gear both get "deformed" from the excessive stress caused from loose clearances. Maybe thats just a different equation from that strength equation in that wiki-link you posted?
With loose clearances I do suppose that it would get further more "loose" (even larger clearance) from the slamming action. But one thing you may be able to answer: on the basis of something needing to be harder than the other to be able to "deform" I can think to relate it to the plastic trim putting scratches in my door window on my 86 chevy truck. The plastic mold is softer than the glass for sure yet still scratches it to hell.
Im no engineer tho. Just looking and wording this stuff as my brain thinks it up. :S so forgive me haha. In the end I think were all on the same page here.ALLEN PETERSEN
Number (604) 961-2449
4XTOYS/ Lower Mainland Skyline Service and aftermarket RB parts.
RB30`s for sale!
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Originally posted by Black BNR32 View PostYes, a splined connection would be best. But, your manufacturing costs increase.
In part with the clearance issue it may also be that harmonics and the 2 flat design drive dont go well with each other. 2JZ engines dont have that problem and Id like to see a simple, affordable solution to equal the reliability of a JZ engine with the splines style drive wet pump. I could be totally wrong on that tho. Its just a thought really. Only one way to find out and thats to try it out.ALLEN PETERSEN
Number (604) 961-2449
4XTOYS/ Lower Mainland Skyline Service and aftermarket RB parts.
RB30`s for sale!
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I was merely suggestiing that deformation could be going on here...
Allen, you and I (even from 2 years ago) have always both argued that it was never the short nose drive collar that was the problem, but instead its the large clearance between oil pump inner driven gear, and the collar on the crank. which, when bouncing off the rev limiter causes that repeated bashing front and back as the oil pump spins freely for a micro second, and then slams into the crank repeatedly.
we both agree there! But I still maintain there is deformation occuring on the crank, my theory of softer metals being the cause I now believe was wrong, as you pointed out, there must be a reason its happening in the first place, and thats because of clearance! but definitley the bashing between crank and oil pump causes deformation, just look at the photos... but I was backwards in suggesting that deformation may cause pump failure.
the last thing I'm still hanging on to is my own personal expeirence. heres what I know to be true 100%
- I bought a brand new R34 crank
- I bought a brand new N1 oil pump
Sitting at home, i took the crank and put it on my work bench... I then took the oil pump and attempted to slide it onto the crank. at first it did not go on and I freaked out thinking something must be wrong...
So I measured the inner diameter of the oil pump gear flat spot to flat spot (stupidly didn't write it down of course!) and I measured the outer diameter of the crank drive collar, again flat to flat, and it was exactly the same.
So after speaking with my engine builder he said that was normal of a new crank and oil pump, and its almost press-fit. the clearance on it was soo tight that it has to be installed perfectly straight, even the slightest tilt from perfect 90 degree perpendicular will cause it to bind during installation.
there was a guy on the forums (won't say name) who had a nice oil pump and crank and tried to force the oil pump onto the crank using a sledge hammer.... probably because he too had a super tight fitting clearance like me... so I know I'm not the only one here who had that.
but like I said, if you can get a new R34 crank, and the N1 oil pump and use the feeler gauges to measure the clearance, I think you'd find that to be the best solution.The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com
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i hope so lol josh i followed you exactly and bought a brand new r34 crank. i am going to measure it with my n1 pump i have already talked to allen and we are going to see the clearences if they are too large i will be getting a collar off him1991 Nissan Skyline R32 GT-R: 710whp 521 ft/lbs 27.5psi 11.8 @126mph low boost
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we're all on the same page, just that 'deformation' isn't quite the right term me thinks
hey josh, a near press fit is what i would expect, so i agree with your builder.
most will already know, but you can (should) heat your pump gear and/or cool your collar/shaft to make installation easier. you will gain a couple thou of clearance easilly. at least that's how press fit bearings are installed.oh hai!
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Originally posted by Black BNR32 View Postwe're all on the same page, just that 'deformation' isn't quite the right term me thinks
hey josh, a near press fit is what i would expect, so i agree with your builder.
most will already know, but you can (should) heat your pump gear and/or cool your collar/shaft to make installation easier. you will gain a couple thou of clearance easilly. at least that's how press fit bearings are installed.03 lancer dead
68 gmc w/355 cid rice killer
05 chevy silverado L33
2010 crv Wife's ride
1987 Harley Softail custom
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Originally posted by archaeic_bloke View Postthe last thing I'm still hanging on to is my own personal expeirence. heres what I know to be true 100%
- I bought a brand new R34 crank
- I bought a brand new N1 oil pump
Sitting at home, i took the crank and put it on my work bench... I then took the oil pump and attempted to slide it onto the crank. at first it did not go on and I freaked out thinking something must be wrong...
So I measured the inner diameter of the oil pump gear flat spot to flat spot (stupidly didn't write it down of course!) and I measured the outer diameter of the crank drive collar, again flat to flat, and it was exactly the same.
So after speaking with my engine builder he said that was normal of a new crank and oil pump, and its almost press-fit. the clearance on it was soo tight that it has to be installed perfectly straight, even the slightest tilt from perfect 90 degree perpendicular will cause it to bind during installation.
Jon, next time your heading to Alans shop, give me a ring. I'll pop by with an oe pump and one of my collars. we can measure and see.
I do know that slipping the pump over the crank can be a little tedious sometimes. Only way to measure is to remove the gears. I usually measures the clearances with Two tools. Thats why my numbers at times are a full tho off of the measurements in this thread because they are not in ten tho intervals. I just wanted a centered measurement. Doesnt really make any difference tho.ALLEN PETERSEN
Number (604) 961-2449
4XTOYS/ Lower Mainland Skyline Service and aftermarket RB parts.
RB30`s for sale!
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I have an interesting story to tell you about...
This past summer I worked in a machine shop, where a learned quite a bit about machining techniques... we had a batch of 35 brass sleeves which act as bushings around 35 stainless steel rods. They are used for elevation shafts on the machines we were building. Anyways, the machinist who I was watching did the first 3 unites and they came out perfect, the fourth was off by a few thou and then wouldn't fit into the brass sleeve. we were trying to find out why, because the lathe was set perfectly the same! it didn't make sense... until we realized that the hardened steel shafts, had worn down the milling bit and caused the shafts to be off by the amount the bit had worn down.
I wonder if the variance in cranks could be attributed to machining variances... like maybe nissan uses a wide tolerance for acceptable crank sizes...causing some to be too loose, and some to be super tight, just a thought.
anyways, heres some photos I dug up of my own N1 pump
Crank
lastly it may be worth considering the crank ratings as an indicator of this machining tolerance...see the numbers stamped onto the journal....Last edited by archaeic_bloke; 03-05-2011, 05:04 PM.The SkyLife Community & News Website --> http://www.skylife4ever.com
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