Nelsonmxmarc 1993 GTSt Type-M Build / Tips-tricks for HCR32 (Skyleezy!)

[nelsonmxmarc]

Hahah that's what i'm saying!
Lip should be around quite soon few other cool projects underway as well..
Yup;



Gonezo..

rerouted hose;





Removed some other poop.. Carbon capture hardlines that i forgot, and random bolts n junk.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Tires for sale;
Falken Ziex ZE912
225/50/16

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/parts-sale/44819-tires-oem-gtr-gtst-rim-fitment-225-50-16-falken-ze912.html#post428403

[nelsonmxmarc]

New toys!



Lincoln MIG 140 and Lincoln TIG 175 welders. Just finished installing the conduits at work, should be operational tonight. Oh how i spend my winter weekends....

[M13]

BIG LOL @ Fram.

[cschepp]

Just out of curiosity what did the tig welder end up setting you back? I would mind picking a tig up.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Lol yaya .. The orange clashes anyways ..
I read that post by marus, pretty serious business.. That's my last fram lol
Gonna grab a wix I GUESSSS....

Chris, TIG was on sale for 1900 tax in, so 1700 give or take.

[cschepp]

Wow that's not bad at all. Where abouts did you pick it up? I was looking at them and was interested in a few that they have in their catalogue. I know we have a licoln dealer in Brampton but want to know if they ship.

[nelsonmxmarc]

They do ship I believe, however I'd you have a Lincoln distributor in the area, I encourage you to check it out! You'll get some opinions as well as grab some deals on gloves, helmets and the works. We have a deal on gas an alloy rods just for snaggin these!
Check out lincolns special now. You get 150 back or your choice of cart or mask. It's autodarkening etc, nice piece.
We went to Linde for our product, as they bought out BOC and moved in nearby.
I would suggest getting the cart, the 140 is small and but the 175 weighs an effin ton for doing work where you need to be mobile. Its also a 240v circuit, so you'll need a standalone 60 amp running it.. Mig is typical 120

[amnash]

the pic oh the hoses you rerouted, am i looking at the power steering lines? get rid of the cooler?

[nelsonmxmarc]

Yup exactly. Reroute where the steering would go to the cooler and the hicas solenoid
My hicas delete is a few pages back

[amnash]

ok ill check it out, so the power steering cooler was for the hicas, mines been removed/locked but cooler is still there. gonna look at how u did it

[nelsonmxmarc]

----------------------------

Well i'm in class before exams, figured i'd give a little update.. Tons of parts are on their way, some of which have already came in! Going to take a big group pic once everything has arrived!

Expect.. suspension.. engine.. interior.. intake... Lotsa goodies!

Car is taking a pretty dramatic turn around - meaning more hp, and lighter

[nelsonmxmarc]

Round 2 - Winter 2010

Round 2 - Winter 2010

As most of you know my RB20det build was going to be quite simple - leaving the top and bottom end stock, cams, turbo and all other necessary goodies, however after having pulled the head, i've run into a bit of a wall.



Scoring on cylinder 4 has forced me to look into a rebuild. The scoring isn't TERRIBLE. Towards the top of the cylinder wall, it begins to catch my nail which makes me a bit leery of running 18 psi on a stock top end. Compression is 150 though, which prompts me to think it still has life in it, but being its the beginning of winter, i'd rather use the time and resources to do it properly as to not run into issues next summer.

The motor still pulls strong, and could be dropped in - but i'm rather anal.

My new build project ensues...


Engine
- Forged top end (CP,JE,Wiseco.. up in the air)
- Stock rods
- Rb20 Crank - ACL bearings, carriers etc
- Block - 78 mil, line-honed and acid dipped/cleaned
- Head - Cleaned and decked
- Valves - Brian crower (or stock, depends still)
- Valve guides - stock
- Valve springs - Tomei
- Cams - Tomei Poncams
- Head gasket - Tomei 1.2mm
- Head studs - ARP
- DIY porting/polishing
- Greddy - Timing belt
- Billion Rad hoses
- Oil cooler - Setrab cooler, homemade lines, godspeed relocator and sender

Fuel
- RB26 fuel pump
- RB26 injectors - rebuilt and flow tested @ 480cc

Exhaust
- Stock manifold - ported mouth, gasket matched and honed
- XS Power - 3" downpipe/ 1.5" divorced WG
- Apex'i decat
- HKS Hi-power - (resonator deleted)

Turbo
- Hybrid RB25
- 2876 CHRA
- Ported, gasket matched

Intake
- Apex'i Power intake
- Custom Intercooler piping
- RB26 OEM intercooler
- Custom front facing plenum
- BOVless

Suspension + Brakes
- Megan Street's - 32 way/height adjustable (Yes, i gave up on the HSD's)
- AMS FUCA/RUCA/Tension arms
- AMS Ft/Rr Slotted rotors and pads (Z32)
- Goodridge braided lines
- Tomei HICAS delete

Miscellaneous
- Nistune + consult
- Battery relocation to trunk
- Infinity mids/hi's
- In dash computer - running Nistune to monitor gauges etc
- AEM Wideband
- Prosport - Oil temp, Oil pressure, Boost gauges
- Greddy Profec B Spec 2 EBC
- Nismo Shift knob
- Top Gaiters leather booties
- LED Replacement cluster globes
- Custom Cross bracing/Cage and rear strut brace
- Sustec/tanabe front strut brace
- A/C Delete
- Sound deadening delete
- Rear seat delete

And.. lots of carbon feebray

This is how my build looks at the moment. 80% of these things are purchased/done.. My main objective now is to complete my engine.

[nelsonmxmarc]

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Winter 2010 build has been on for some time.
Car was stored approx. a month ago, and since then the interior has been stripped, and the engine as well down to only the block.

Storage;


AC deleted


Engine being stripped down;




Cleaning up and removing dead weight;




Now that i've been introduced to this cylinder issue, i've put a lot of thought into rebuilding my other 20 block;


Ideally i was going to go the route of the 2.3, as i have all these parts available to me.. However, due to simplicity and the sheer fact it's not the most RELIABLE route due to wall thickness and gallery size, i'm going to simply rebuild the 20 as is.

IF, and thats a BIG IF, I HAVE to rebore, i will use a 26 crank, 26 rods and 81 mm pistons/or 80 depending on availability. 4AGZE pistons are hard to find new, however they're forged and a great fit in the case of the 23.

My best bet now, for simplicity and reliability;
Forged pistons
Rings
Line hone and block cleaning
Crank bearings
Stock rods/Crank
Ported head and affiliated head cleaning


Paired with poncams, tomei valve springs, possibly stock valves and a hybrid rb25 turbo, a 'refreshed' motor will still see a nice 8000rpm limit, and should yield the likes of 350 whp..

My other target is weight. Trying to break the 1100kg limit for a Daily driven vehicle, but with cage and other variable, i'm likely to see around 1120kg, as which it weighed last fall (no pass. seat or rear seats, soundsystem and other stuff. AC Still intact)

Items removed thus far;
Rear seat
Rear decklid
Remaining sound deadening
AC unit and affiliated lines
Front and rear rebar cut, an drilled to a minimum
Rear deck lid cut and shaved (Replaced with a carbon fibre panel)
Driver and passenger seats - current R&D into fabricating adjustable carbon fibre seats ( will release in spring, most likely )
Carbon canister and all lines from tank
BOV and lines
RECIRC piping and PCV return
HICAS lines/pump/rack
Along with other crap i cant recall off the top of my head.. But yea, with the cage and bracing, the car will hopefully break the 1100kg mark with glass windows and still street legal.

[nelsonmxmarc]

RB20DET block disassembly

Started to take this guy apart today. As of now i'm left with only the crank in place as well as the oil pump..

Going to get around to pulling that soon and see what the condition the cylinders are in. As far as i can tell, they're in good shape with absolutely no nicks/scrapes or scoring. Just the typical old age, beaten motor scarring. All this can be cured with a line hone, so the bore should remain 78.





Head;