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RB20 project S14

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  • RB20 project S14

    I'll start from the very start. I use to have a 1G awd Talon with some goodies on it. Then one day I said I'd like to try rwd nissan turbo. I sold my 1G DSM (I should have just parked it ohh well). Paid $600 back in 04 for the a stock 89 240sx. It had bad paint, ugly interior but I really didn't care since I only drove it after I got of work and it was always dark when I got off lol. I had planed on just doing a SR20DET swap into the car but I had rough time from a supplier. Then I heard about a 2.0 inline 6 motor, and started looking into it. The most common thing I heard about it was that it loved to rev. I was sold at that point and got my motorset from Karime (importer out here in Socal) He got me a really clean motor and trans. I got a mount kit and installed it into my S13.





    Found a good RB forum and wired up my swap myself. 6 wires later it ran and I was happy even it if was the crappy stock turbo and intercooler. I threw in my PFC and installed a Greddy Power Extream 2 on to the car and I loved it. Took the car to the track and ran a 13.7 my only good pass out of the 3 I got . Next up was a FMIC install and piping. I had Mike @ Protech-Fabrication get on his knees and make it for me lol, he wasn't very happy but I twisted his arm. Also got a RIpps intake manifold for my RB20 since greddy didn't have one for my anemic motor (why bother is just a crap 2.0l inline 6 motor)






    Car ran really good I was happy and on my way to the dyno to check out my gains then I got served by some crazy lady on 2 lane highway . I got trapped behinde some guy watch the whole thing and I had no where to go and the chain reaction got to me. Car was totaled out by the insurance company and they gave me 1k for it lol. I was pissed but I didn't know any better, live and learn.



    Then one of my friends told me about a 95 240sx that was for sale. guy wanted $900 because the motor was blown. I thought to myself no fuking way so I took the trip out to the guys house to look at it. Yup he wanted $900 for it and I forked over the money and got the pick slip the same night!. It was rough but it was better than nothing.





    Had Mike @ Protech come pick it up with his trunk since I don't own one lol. What a nice guy, he did my intercooler piping and now he picks up my car for me. So I yanked the RB20 from the S13 and what ever else I could use and paid $50 to a wrecking yard to come and get it. I was out of town working for 6 months so before I left I dropped my motor off to my friends at OSR to do some work for me. I had a new timing belt, tensioner, idler pulley and water pump for the swap the 1st go around but didn't bother since the motor was is such good shape. I had them install those, and some Tomei stuff I ordered. I would like to say that I got this stuff from RHDjapan. Tomei 270 intake and exhaust cam, Tomei headgasket, Tomei valve springs, Sard 800cc injectors. I got a very good deal on all this stuff. When I got back home it was time to throw the motor back into the car without the exhaust manifold because that too was getting an upgrade.





    This is where time kinda stopped. took a while to get the manifold and 02 housing made but it was well worth the wait.











    It hasn't had direct sun light in YEARS lol.


    2.75" intercooling piping mild steel that hasn't been painted yet lol. I'll get to it after I get the car running.




    Lightning maf blow through.




    I also threw on my GTspec with the cartboy mounts and OMG. It was like fighting in 8' of water.


    need a new downpipe *** .


    I had CarlH @ blackboxtuning@gmail.com do my S14 harness since this go around I didn't feel like messing with the wiring. He did a great job and wired in a resistor box for my Sard 800cc injectors and made sure my consult plug worked. I sold the PFC a while back and went back with a stock ECU. I got a Nistune realtime daughterboad for the car. I had a huge problem with my stock regulator and I couldn't get my car to start much less idle for 2 weeks. OSR saved me again, with there help I tracked down the problem and got the car to fireup on a stock bin with just the injectors size and maf changed. In a few weeks I'll be getting it on the dyno to start working on the tune . So for now the only vid is of it turning over.

  • #2
    Painted the intercooler pipes.


    I threw it on the dyno with the my friends at the shop pushing me because they wanted to see what it would do.
    Nissan S14 with RB20DET. Mods are Tomie 270 intake/exhaust cam, Tomie headgasket, Tomei valve springs, Ripps intake manifold, Sard 800cc injectors, Protech-fabrication…


    Major problems that night with the Nistune, I think I had the injector latency all wrong in my many attempts to get the car started. I also think I had to rewire the fuel pump because it wasn't getting good enough voltage on the top . They shut it down because it started to go lean. The Rev limiter was set to 8000.

    Front Bumper on with Greddy Lip


    Will be back on the dyno in prob 2 or 3 weeks and hopefully the new bin works right and I can get my tune under control. Also hooked up my EVC4 so no more cheap boost controller like we used for that night lol. I'm hope it will help with the spool time. I'll update when I get it done.

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    • #3
      Nice project. And 400whp is impressive. Stock bottom end? Also wondering what turbo you used.


      Sean

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      • #4
        .....................

        Originally posted by Nissan_Sean View Post
        Nice project. And 400whp is impressive. Stock bottom end? Also wondering what turbo you used.


        Sean
        Yeah it's still stock bottom end only thing I did was pull the head off and installed Tomei valve springs,ARP head studs and Tomei head gasket. It's a Precision SC61 its the older version. I bought it new back in 02 just never got a chance to use it till now lol. This project has been a long road with no real end in sight.

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        • #5
          so how doid you attach the fuel sender unit to the fuel pump?? is this bigger than the stock ka unit?? iam currently running a rb20det fuel pump(came with my motor set) and its the exact size as the oem ka.. looking to upgrade. i don't want a whalboro as they also take up a lot of electricty..

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          • #6
            AFM after the turbo?? does that work? i always thought it had to be before (like stock set-up on a RB20)
            1966 Pontiac Beaumont | 1972 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-X | 1990 Nissan Skyline GTS-T Type-M
            1991 Toyota Celsior C-Type Supercharged | 1991 Toyota Cressida | 2008 GMC Acadia

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Boyscout
              AFM after the turbo?? does that work? i always thought it had to be before (like stock set-up on a RB20)
              Nah, it works after the turbo fine. Interesting place for it though, I thought people usually put it as close the throttle body as possible.. It makes it so you can run a blow off valve that vents to atmoshpere I think. Also makes it easy to run aftermarket intake pipe from turbo to filter.

              Completely eliminate the bov, run a steal/aluminum intake pipe between turbo and air filter, and you'll get the best shhhhtew tu tu tu tu tu tu ever, lol.

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              • #8
                .....................

                Originally posted by supersayianjim View Post
                so how doid you attach the fuel sender unit to the fuel pump?? is this bigger than the stock ka unit?? iam currently running a rb20det fuel pump(came with my motor set) and its the exact size as the oem ka.. looking to upgrade. i don't want a whalboro as they also take up a lot of electricty..
                There is no extra hardware to go with on the fuel pumps in the S13 or S14. We just pull the old pump and change the clips and put it back in. The Pump I used is a Denso pump from a Twin Turbo Supra.

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                • #9
                  .....................

                  Originally posted by DreadedFist View Post
                  Nah, it works after the turbo fine. Interesting place for it though, I thought people usually put it as close the throttle body as possible.. It makes it so you can run a blow off valve that vents to atmoshpere I think. Also makes it easy to run aftermarket intake pipe from turbo to filter.

                  Completely eliminate the bov, run a steal/aluminum intake pipe between turbo and air filter, and you'll get the best shhhhtew tu tu tu tu tu tu ever, lol.
                  I have mine I think 6" from the throttle body can't remember. It was recommended that it not be right on the throttle body. I can't recall why tho it's been a while. For me the Blow through with Lightning maf was done mostly because of the space needed for a 4" intake pipe and filter. If I didn't have that adapter installed on the intercooler pipe I probably wouldn't have gone blow through.

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                  • #10
                    how is the lightning maf different in the way of tuning the car compare to 300zx.

                    You can easily tune it?

                    i am going to run blow throug also on my set-up which look pretty muche like your, but with a gt2876r and 256 tomei poncam.
                    Alexandre Canuel
                    PERRY AUTO LAVAL
                    PERFORMANCE & RACE- OEM
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                    450 662 8886

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                    • #11
                      So far I can say no it's not easy to tune lol but I only had it on the dyno once to tune it and the other time I got it on I spent the last bit of energy I had trying to figure out why it was over boosting. If your going to go blow through with that maf check out this thread. A guy made a billet adapter so u can do what I did and place it in the pipe. http://www.sr20-forum.com/turbo/31671-mmmm-billet.html

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                      • #12
                        I thought I posted the vids I guess I didn't.
                        http://vimeo.com/9264535 <~~~~~The night I did the 398hp with a manual boost controller

                        http://vimeo.com/11203320 <~~~~This last month at the end of a long dyno day. I helped my friend do the event so at the end I got to put my car on the dyno. I had major issues with my EVC4 and vacuum lines got it figured out the next week and had other drama with my oil filter.

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                        • #13
                          ......................

                          Ok so an update of some sort. I haven't had the time or the money to work on the car. Now I just don't have much time but it's a little better now. Got the car on the dyno last week and had 2 main goals for the session. 1 was to get my EVC4 working right, 2 was to get the ecu to us the maf and fuel/ignition maps right. Before it would not go beyond a max TP of like 20 no matter how much boost I threw into it. So after I redid the vacuum lines and printed out the instructions to refresh my EVC knowledge I put it into learn mode. Did the pulls on the dyno to get it set so all good there. turned it up to 1bar and it did that 1bar, The ecu also worked like it was suppose too. The problem I was having with my Nistune was that I never did hit the burn to Rom button when I was done playing with the tune. This goes back from when I 1st tried to start it. So since I loaded the map and hit the burn to rom button it worked like it was suppose too . It was major user error on my part lol. So 14psi and limiter set to 8k it pulled all the way there and I was happy, A/F looked good even tho it was on the stock RB20 fuel and ignition maps.

                          I didn't pay much attention to the numbers I was just happy it reved out like it was suppose too. Then I said ok let go back to 18psi!, That was when it turned into half of a victory. @ 18psi it would not rev over 7k rpm, it was as if I was hitting a speed cut or fuel cut. The limits for both are set very high so that shouldn't be the case.

                          When I got home I posted the logs on the nistune forum. I was just too tired and extra pair of eyes always help. Turns out the Lightning maf is maxing out! I need to step up to a bigger cold intercooler pipe. The 2.75" is just too small and prob needs to be at least 3" or 3.5". Not sure if I can do 3.5" but 3" shouldn't be a big problem. So for those going blow thorough with a Ford Lightning Maf 3" cold intercooler pipe at the minimum.

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                          • #14
                            Cool build man, Nice numbers for an RB20. Good luck on figuring out your mapping problem.
                            Heart rate 160, I'm goin 260, RB26 run me past you in a jiffy

                            GT-R

                            O O SKYLINE O O

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                            • #15
                              Great build.


                              I was the one posting on nistune regards to HPX+05 MAF for blow-thru set up.


                              You were my inspiration.

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