Project NashZilla: R32 GT-T NEO

[amnash]

here is a tiny write up on how to cut a stock shifter (tons of pics). i was sick and tired of my car feeling like i was driving a semi and i wasn't gonna pay $500 for another shifter. soo given you have all the tools for the job, this mod is free. end result was it looks great and feels even better.

here is what the stock shifter looks like. so high i can use it as a damn arm rest.. and on top of that i literally had to look Around it when using my air con.. lol terrible



so you need to take a dremel or something and cut that top piece down the side in a couple places, then pry it open. Its kind of a pain in the ass and takes some messing around but the lower part will come out eventually.



i used a box cutter to cut the bulk of the bushing off and then i used a torch to burn the rest off until it was nice bare metal, clean it up with some sand paper after so its nice and shiny again.



then you'll have to grind down the end a bit so that a m10x1.25 die can fit on. i just used a demel with a sanding wheel on it and went to town until i couple get the die to grab by hand. then using some lubrication and a bench vice make your threads.




then install as per normal

[amnash]

working on the shifter after driving and noticed it was pretty friggin hot.. I'm hoping it hasn't been overheating this whole time and just waiting for something to fail. oorr do these Trans run hot anyways?

Sent from my GT-S5830D using Tapatalk 2

[S13Jordie]

Love this thread dude. So many "how to's" and an overall great attention to detail. Im eager to start working on mine again. just gotta trailer it from ottawa to my new house in toronto (warmer weather will help too) Keep up the good work.

[Skym]

working on the shifter after driving and noticed it was pretty friggin hot.. I'm hoping it hasn't been overheating this whole time and just waiting for something to fail. oorr do these Trans run hot anyways?

Sent from my GT-S5830D using Tapatalk 2

If RB25DET transmission in R32 chassis it's common due to not much air getting around gearbox (small tunnel). Most fit a gearbox oil cooler, pump, temp activated switch (or manual switch for pump in centre console), etc to keep temps in check on racetrack.

Or exhaust is hot (need to put heat sheilding material inbetween the transmission, exhaust).

RB20DET transmission doesn't have this problem due to bigger gap inbetween tunnel, gearbox.

[amnash]

what do you guys think of this cluster?? i picked it up on ebay for a pretty good price. a 260 km/hr nismo cluster with battery gauge for hcr32 it has a blue backing and the one in my car is blue so it should work.



after i bought it, i was trying to find other GTS nismo cluster like this one online and the only ones i could find had the boost gauge at the top left. I have an aftermarket boost gauge and no battery gauge so this is perfect.

I thought maybe some genius modded a battery gauge from a GTR triple gauge unit but then noticed the battery logo is in a different spot.

what do you guys make of this?? i hope its some rare goodness

[Skym]

As far as I know, the 260km/h speedo is rare, because Nismo don't sell them anymore.

Battery gauge in corner = GTS cluster.

Boost gauge in corner = GTS-T cluster.

Also grey face = Series 2 R32 cluster and blue face = Series 1 R32 cluster.

What would worry me is the calibration for speedo part of cluster, but that can be sorted via playing with gearbox end of speedo cable. Probably worth it to check circuit board on back of cluster for calibration info of original cluster (should be printed on circuit board).

Also Tomei did make a 300km/h speedo (seen the blue face version on a mates R32 GTS-T).

But these days Do Luck make them for Series 1 and 2 R32, up to 320km/h and displays mph as well up to 200mph -

http://www.do-luck.com/tuningparts/electronics/speedmeter/index.html

[amnash]

ahh that makes sense. well hopefully it works when i plug it in. pretty stoked.

[amnash]

that cluster works fine. installed it a while ago just didnt update this.

ive determined that my diff is super sloppy back there and something is either worn out or just loose or something. wondering what are my options here, is it just a matter of adding some shims to compensate for the wear? or do you just get a good used one and swap them out?

[Skym]

Good to hear.

From what I understand, the shim adjust's the backlash (clunk sound when backing off throttle). When wheel starts spinning on passenger? side only (from what I can remember), then you'll know stock LSD diffhead has failed. If that happens, halfshaft's x2, propshaft can also be damaged at same time, so check for play in joints (easy to spot if there's alot of play) by putting one hand on each side of joint and twisting each side in different directions.

Usual refresh of diffhead is new bearings, new seals and new shim (Nissan has many different thickness shims / options). The backlash is measured to workout what thickness shim is needed (look in GTR manual which should have the basic procedure for checking backlash, etc).

Aftermarket LSD's give you more options as far as rebuilding, tuning for how car exit's corners, etc goes.

KAAZ LSD is probably the best LSD for this application -

http://www.kaazusa.com/

[amnash]

I skimmed over the fsm for gtr diff. Would that be 100%the same specs for backlash torques etc for a hcr32

Sent from my GT-S5830D using Tapatalk 2

[Skym]

R32 GTR rear LSD is mechanical. R32 GTS-T rear LSD is viscous. 2x different types of LSD's, but rebuild, shim / adjusting backlash procedures should be similar. There might be diffhead specs (how much backlash there needs to be, etc) in the workshop manual for HCR32.

[amnash]

Soo who has experience tuning a greddy profec II boost controller?? im starting to get into it and its getting confusing

[amnash]

Ive bought myself my first home.. so ive been busy. A somewhat related update is my new tiny garage, one of the first things ive done was took down a weird ass wall that was cutting the garage in half and used the salvage wood to build a nice workbench, ive seen pics of some of you guys using plastic folding tables like i used to so thought i would share.






heres where i found the "how to" , mine is bench #5

http://freebies.about.com/od/free-pl...ench-plans.htm

[amnash]

all done now, had a roofing supply store make up a bench cover with 26gage sheet metal.

[amnash]

Nearing the end of last summer i was having issues with the pump not priming initially when trying to start and that got worse and worse to the point that at the end of the summer (luckily the car was in storage) the pump wouldn't prime at all so.. no start either.
I thought the soldering joints in the harness i made during the swap had cracked or something because the pump and pump relay were fine but no signal from ecu. so after taking the harness out and checking everything even going as far as ordering another ecu.. i finally traced it down the the ecu not getting ignition power, followed that back to the 6 pin relay and that was the issue, the relay was only letting 3.5 volts through instead of 12. bypassed the relay and it fired right up. so that goes to enforce the theory of START simple.. spent a month figuring this one out.. but now its fixed

some motivation from a fellow nissan enthusiast came with the ecu


http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gts-tech...-ecu-help.html


after getting it running i caught "the must drive fever" and have been working on it every night because i just was to drive it now.

removed the coil-overs to take them apart to clean/grease them because i was having major creaking noise, all four had nuts on the mounting studs before they were installed which is sketch to say the least, the rear coil-overs locking rings were loose and one was actually longer 1.5inch.



I took them apart and set the spring-load to 0 and height using hammer and punch for the rings (they're ******* tight now). i followed these links and got them all within 1/16" so im happy

http://www.meganracing.com/tech/inst...ing%20pre-load

http://www.meganracing.com/tech/inst...s%20been%20set

After all that i moved onto the diff hunting down some clunking in the rear.
http://forums.gtrcanada.com/general-...-backlash.html
Took it apart and it appeared to be in great shape, and the backlash was better then i was expecting. so i just put it back together with a new gasket and some redline heavy shockproof and bolted it back on the car.
redline for the transmission too.