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mitch32 rebuild/winter project

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  • mitch32 rebuild/winter project


    I'll give a quick introduction and then some pictures.

    So I bought my r32 gtr in May 09 and I drove it for a month and noticed my oil pressure gauge never really moved passed 2.5bar. I didn't really think too much of it, as you know the oil pressure sender is known to not work properly. I then installed a new oil pressure sender, and some defi gauges. My new gauge(s) read the same oil pressure, so then I test with a mechanical gauge and still same thing. I then read that the oil pump back plate is known to come loose and cause the symptons I had. I figured at this point might-as-well just go all out (built motor with bigger turbos) since the motor has to come out of the car.

    I took the motor out over the past two days, it wasn't too bad. All I can say is holys**t is theres a lot of hoses. I ended up taking it out without the tranny which required some crazy number of extensions and a swivel.

    My build details:

    Current Parts (In Boxes):
    GT2860R-5 Turbos
    Trust 13row Oil Cooler
    Defi DIN Gauge
    Denso 280lph Fuel Pump
    Sard 700cc Injectors
    Synapse Synchronic Recirc BOV
    Apex'i AVCR

    Parts On Order/to be Ordered:
    R34 Crank
    N1 Oil Pump
    N1 Water Pump
    Nismo Bearings (Mains/Con-Rod)
    ARP HeadStuds
    ARP or Tomei Main Studs
    Tomei Oil Pan Baffle
    Nissan Rebuild Gasket Set + Tomei Gasket Kit
    Nismo Timing Belt (Nissan idler/tensioner)
    ATI Big Damper
    Nismo Thermostat
    CP Pistons
    Eagle Rods (or stock with rod bolts)
    Tomei Type B Cams
    Tomei Type A Springs
    Tomei Bronze Valve Guides (or equivalent)
    Nismo AFMs
    Nismo Twin Plate Clutch (or similar)
    Trust Turbo-Back Downpipe (or custom)
    Fully Balanced/Blueprinted rotating assembly

    Pictures from around when I got the car:

    Pictures from this weekend:

  • #2
    for having seen this car in person and even sat in it, its super clean, one of the cleanest GTRs around

    lol i love that picture with you on top of the engine
    ''sp where were you when he got crushed?''
    ''well i was kind of sitting on the engine on top of the car..''

    this is going to be a nice engine build!

    but you forgot about external upgrades, like the intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and dump pipes

    hey mitch, don't know if i ever showed you this pic but.. look whos in the passenger seat haha

    [links to all chapters in first post]


    • #3
      I'm anxious to see the engine back in the car with all the goodies, this is going to be a sweeeeet ride.

      Coming from a guy who spent the whole weekend under this car getting coolant spilled on his face!


      • #4
        Nice build, looks pretty similar to what I'm doing. Any reason why you chose to take off the plenum before pulling the engine?
        Originally posted by Z-Tuned
        Next question is: should I stroke it??
        Originally posted by Wingnut
        Yes, but leave the engine alone.


        • #5
          Hey Velders,

          I had my oil cooler installed and didn't want to break the lines. So I decided to take the plenum off to remove it. I've removed the plenum a few times, its not too bad once you've done it, the first time took me 5 hours though!


          • #6
            Hey frankiman,

            Nice pic! Your car always looks good. As for the intake manifold I'm gonna keep it stock for now just cause aftermarket manifolds are really expensive unless I make my own. Also the stock intake manifold will keep good response so I figure I'll try it as is. The exhaust manifold I'll port it but it'll remain stock theres guys in Australia and the UK doing around 700whp on the stock exhaust manifold. The Trust Turbo Extension pipe inlcudes the dump-pipes and downpipe in one unit. I might go for an upgraded intercooler but again theres people with 700-800+whp on the stock intercooler, also the stock intercooler will help with engine response. I want 500whp (or more) but I really would rather response over shear power. Plus external stuff is easily replaced.

            I might also do water/meth injection or add some toluene to the tank each fill up.


            • #7

              Worked for a few hours today on the engine. Turbos are off, pretty much all the lines on the turbo side are off, all pumps and alternator are off, timing belt is off, and clutch/flywheel are off. I think thats pretty much everything. I'll post some pictures later on, I also noticed on a freeze plug at the back of the motor on the head someone wrote '83' with a marker (don't know what it means, kinda of interesting). The timing belt was a Gates PowerGlide pretty sure its an aftermarkter but Gates do make OEM stuff.


              • #8
                Some Pictures from today. I have alot more but on another camera (so I'll post them later).

                The 83 on the back of the head.

                Some Parts:


                • #9
                  nice, apexi ACV-R

                  and what the specs on the turbines?

                  and your engine looks pretty clean, and that ''83'' is mysterious

                  [links to all chapters in first post]


                  • #10
                    did you look at your oil pump and see whats actually going on with it?... why were u seeing low pressure all the time?

                    please elaborate im interested
                    The SkyLife Community & News Website -->


                    • #11
                      That '83' is very mysterious cause to have written it the motor had to be out of the car and also the lines on the back of the motor had to off. Or I guess it could of been written if the headgasket was done.

                      I haven't gotten to the oil pump yet, I think I'm through the big stuff so hopefully one more day and I'll get to the oil pump. I have to just remove the head and then oil pan, the oil pump..... Its pretty crazy, most of my time is spent taking pictures of hoses/wires and labeling stuff. There so much stuff on this motor its unbelievable.

                      One thing that was interesting is my old turbos are in mint condition, theres less shaft play then on my new turbos. It's around .001" shaft play on the old turbos (amazing for 20 year old turbos). Also, so far everything looks stock, even the clutch is OEM and in good shape.


                      • #12
                        thats sounding good then bud!

                        please post up more about the oil pump situation when you know more, its the first ive ever heard of that problem and it sounds VERY interesting, can you describe what exactly you were seeing while driving on the oil pressure gauges?

                        and did you have any oil leaking from around the block because of that?
                        The SkyLife Community & News Website -->


                        • #13
                          So finished up the complete engine teardown today. As expect there was some of the Philips screws on the back of the oil pump loose, two to be exact.

                          If you want to read about the oil pump screws issue I made a post here, click here, and someone replied saying he also had the same issue.

                          This is the oil pump, you can see the two screws that are loose

                          Now the good stuff, if any one needs I have somewhere around 150-200 photos of the whole block in detail (aka where all the bolts,hoses, etc... are attached, there not pretty but I have a lot).


                          • #14
                            wow great thread!!!! keep the pics coming


                            • #15
                              Nice stuff man.