Work Log: R33 GT-R

[R33-East]

Thats a respectable amount of power, I have heard good things about the Nismo twin plate clutch if you haven't already looked into it. I can't wait to see how it all turns out Do you plan on taking this to the track?

[PurpleStreak]

Thats a respectable amount of power, I have heard good things about the Nismo twin plate clutch if you haven't already looked into it. I can't wait to see how it all turns out Do you plan on taking this to the track?

That's what I'll probably go with..but I think i'll save it for next year when I can get the car on a lift and change the clutch and rear main properly..

Alberta is not known for its circuits, not a big fan of the drag strip either..having said I will definitely try some AutoX

[ColinR33]

Come on down for some of the events at Namao and lapping at Stratotech. They are quite well done and a lot of fun.

[PurpleStreak]

Come on down for some of the events at Namao and lapping at Stratotech. They are quite well done and a lot of fun.

Ill be sure to check it out!

[PurpleStreak]

My thoughts on the Nismo Oil Separator

I would like to offer why I think a oil separator setup for recirculation is better than a catch tank vented to atmosphere on a RB26 with a stock oiling system.

Everybody knows that the stock RB26 head receives too much oil, and there are numerous band aids available for the problem for which the only straightforward solution really is to install a smaller feed restrictor.

With so much oil going to the head, the oil is churned and misted, and it would take the easiest route out, which would be the vacuum draw from the turbo suction.

When the vacuum source for the oil vapor and blow-by is removed and replaced with an atmospheric vent, back-pressure is increased in the system, which is both good and bad. It is good in the sense that the dynamic pressure drop of the vapors will result in reduced velocity, resulting in condensation of the vapors. It is bad in the sense that the placement of the catch tank becomes ever more important.

If the catch tank is placed lower than the vapor source, all condensed liquid, including the relatively larefe amount of oil vapor, will accumulate in the catch tank. Any true blow-by vapors, being lighter than the fluid, would stay at the high point if it were not for the velocity of the vapor itself (dynamic pressure). As you can see, if the catch tank is placed lower than the cam cover nipples, the working principles of the atmospheric catch tank fight against each other. The engine would lose more oil this way.

If the catch tank is placed higher than the vapor source, things work out much better. The much heavier hydrocarbons flow back to the cam cover, while the lighter blow-by gases and by-products are stagnated and accumulate in the higher catch can and/or vented to atmosphere, due to pressure differential. Unfortunately, the RB26 engine bay is ill suited for a high mount application. Also, it is possible to smell fumes due to the proximity of the catch can vent to the HVAC air intakes.

Baffles are available in the N1 engine and from other sources to attempt to slow the velocity of the mist and cause it to coalesce. The Mine's baffle plate is more elaborate, and it appears to be a sound design, but reviews vary from person to person about its effectiveness.



Lastly, we come to the oil separator that is recirculated to the intake. A properly designed oil separator should be large enough to handle liquid slugs, while allowing for vapor separation from the liquid. All that is really needed is a change in direction of flow to separate the vapor from liquid. This is how 90% of the much larger vertical separators/degassers are in the oilsands industry that I work in.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Separat..._production%29

Given that the vapor stream is largely composed of oil, it makes sense to separate the heavier oil and send it back to the oil pan. There will be some by-products that are sent back to the oil pan, but the quantity is likely miniscule. The key point about the separator is that it is not a coalescer, meaning that most unwanted contaminants are not given the opportunity to condense (get knocked out) and are sent directly to the vacuum source instead.

This operating principle is different from a knockout drum (like a catch tank) , where the vapor is stagnated, enough for condensation to occur.

"When the direction of flow of a gas stream containing liquid mist is changed abruptly, inertia causes the liquid to continue in the original direction of flow. Separation of liquid mist from the gas thus can be effected because the gas will more readily assume the change of flow direction and will flow away from the liquid mist particles. The liquid thus removed may coalesce on a surface or fall to the liquid section below."

What I don't like is that you have combustion gases and by-products being sent back into the intake. Addition of a filter or catch can will almost do nothing at this point if the vapors are gaseous, asides from catching fugitive liquid particles and adding backpressure to the system. This is one aspect of the recirculating setup that cannot be effectively mitigated.

It is difficult to size a separator for this engine, as blow by quantities and quality can vary so dramatically.

Coming to the Nismo Oil Separator, theoretically it appears sound. It is well packaged and consistent in quality. It appears to be sized properly for the application; only the minimum dimensions of a separator are usually sized, with margin added for upsets.

http://www.enggcyclopedia.com/calcul...ical-degasser/





The picture below shows how the separator works; the vapor stream is subject to an abrupt direction change. This is enough to separate the blow-by vapor from the oil.



I'm not sure if the baffle is really necessary, but it will help protect the outgoing vapor stream from any mist particles that spray towards the direction of the outlet. You can see that it is just tacked and not seam welded, which does not make any difference.



What is lacking is a vortex breaker on the oil outlet. I can't comment any more on this because I don't know if there is that much oil flow that a fluid level is maintained in the separator long enough for a vortex to be generated.

All in all, it seems to be a thorough design, although I think it could be a few hundred dollars lower in price The recirculation aspect is an unfortunate necessity in the setup, but all in all the system is an improvement over the stock setup.

[speedracer1610]

I have a similar engine build my car made 591hp to the wheels. Nice work.

[NismoS-tune]

Mr Purplestreak, I believe we have met. Let me know if I'm correct...

Some random GTiR guy you may have run into
Anyway, let me know if you need help as I'm sometimes in town for work, I know a thing or 2 about GTRs.

As for your parts, have you bought those yet? If not here's my opinion if it matters:

-Forget the Cometic head gasket. Go Tomei or HKS.
-As for spark plugs, forget Iridium, if they ever foul, they are most likely scrap, plain Race coppers work fine and I run really rich without issues all the way to 9500rpm and I also use high voltage ignition coils so they're tough. They're cheap and can be ordered at NAPA, I'll get you the part number.
-Turbos, -5s are great but at 450whp, you're better off with SS or -7s as they spool faster and have been known to be able to go over 500whp where the -5s are laggier but good for more power. If you don't have those yet, I have a set available, they have less 2000km, ceramic coated (kickass) and are ported to improve flow. PM
- If your engine is showing low numbers on 5 and 6, I would be careful on making more power. It can make things fail easier and could cause more damage when boosting more. If you do find a tuner that will get you that power, don't tell him about the comp test. I had 165 across the board and a clean car but the tuner stopped at 300whp on -5 which means a stock GTR was faster lol.

2 cents.

Franc

[PurpleStreak]

I have a similar engine build my car made 591hp to the wheels. Nice work.

Thanks, my goals aren't quite as lofty, but the setup should certainly be capable of that after an engine rebuild..

[PurpleStreak]

Of course I have met you and your GTiR!
Your advice was definetely heeded..

- I'm just getting assorted gaskets for the header and turbo, going no where near the head gasket yet!
- Marwan told me the same thing about the copper plugs, now I feel kinda stupid for paying $130 for spark plugs lol. BKR7Es, correct?
-I already have the -5s...At the time I was looking there were no -7s available, and I was split between the -5s and N1s..I decided to go for the -5s just because they offer more potential and I don't have to improve flow everywhere else to improve their efficiency over 500hp..I just want to use them as a stepping stone after a built bottom end and before a larger single.
-That's pretty much why I set my sights low..I'm kinda prepared in the back of my mind to do a rebuild in case things do take a turn for the worse lol...but at any rate I would like more power albeit with a safe tune. I'll do my best to convince them to not stop at 300whp lol..

Thanks for the input!

Mr Purplestreak, I believe we have met. Let me know if I'm correct...

Some random GTiR guy you may have run into
Anyway, let me know if you need help as I'm sometimes in town for work, I know a thing or 2 about GTRs.

As for your parts, have you bought those yet? If not here's my opinion if it matters:

-Forget the Cometic head gasket. Go Tomei or HKS.
-As for spark plugs, forget Iridium, if they ever foul, they are most likely scrap, plain Race coppers work fine and I run really rich without issues all the way to 9500rpm and I also use high voltage ignition coils so they're tough. They're cheap and can be ordered at NAPA, I'll get you the part number.
-Turbos, -5s are great but at 450whp, you're better off with SS or -7s as they spool faster and have been known to be able to go over 500whp where the -5s are laggier but good for more power. If you don't have those yet, I have a set available, they have less 2000km, ceramic coated (kickass) and are ported to improve flow. PM
- If your engine is showing low numbers on 5 and 6, I would be careful on making more power. It can make things fail easier and could cause more damage when boosting more. If you do find a tuner that will get you that power, don't tell him about the comp test. I had 165 across the board and a clean car but the tuner stopped at 300whp on -5 which means a stock GTR was faster lol.

2 cents.

Franc

[PurpleStreak]

My lack of updates can be attributed to 3 weeks in China and 2 weeks of a wicked sinus infection! I've been holding off on removing the turbos till I manage to fit up the downpipe. But of course, the eBay downpipe doesn't fit..



Hopefully one of the two downpipes I bought will fit. Once I decide which one to go with, I can get the bung installed and get those stock twins out!

In other news, I got something I've been looking for a very long time from a good guy in Australia, a Pivot turbo timer!



It's not as flexible as my current TT, but it looks much better with it replacing the coin slot! ( as pictured below, ignore the damage on it)

[PurpleStreak]

Finally got some progress..I don't know how some of you swap turbos in a day, but gettign the stockers off is a royal PITA!!

I removed some of the ancilliaries from the -5s to attempt to fit the new coolant and oil lines. Removing this 'manifold' means limited access during installation and future removal; but the advantage is it eliminates some of the bulk of the assembly. The 'manifold' can be removed via the bolts onto the compressor housing and the oil and coolant banjo bolts:




The coolant return fitting threads out of the housing:



Test fit of the new fittings is a success. It won't be possible to install these at either end when the turbos are in place, but should be doable when the turbos are placed in the engine bay prior to bolting up the manifolds.




The oil drain on the rear turbo has to be changed to the new Nismo fitting for the separator, however this needs to be modified as the oil drain flanges are smaller on the -5s than the stockers.



As for the removal of the stockers, I had removed all the inlet piping last year.



I simply broke the coolant return tubes because they were in the way and it was not possible to get them off. Besides this, the oil and coolant supply lines, turbo supports, brackets, and oil drain line came off with relative ease. Overall, the front turbo and manifold came out with relatively less trouble..



The rear turbo was more of a story, due to the limited access to one of the manifold-turbine flange bolts provided by the firewall. The manifold and turbo had to come out in one piece. Access to the manifold was much better this time around though.



Of course, during all this time, because I didnt bother trying to get to the poorly located coolant drain plug on the block, I dealt with periodic coolant showers. I would like to install a little drain line off this fitting to faciliate easier coolant changes in the future.



Next up is:
-replacing manifold studs ( I damaged some of these during the struggle with the front manifold )
-match outlet port of manifold to turbine inlet port
-paint manifold with VHT Flame Proof ( since the heat shield bolts broke off lol)
-transfer all turbo ancilliaries from stockers to -5s

[gtrjerry73]

Nice car man love the color. It really suits the 33. What site do you work on? I'm at albian

[PurpleStreak]

Nice car man love the color. It really suits the 33. What site do you work on? I'm at albian

Thanks! I work at Suncor Base Plant..are you in camp or local?

EDIT: Ah the grove, nvm

[Robin026]

The perfect color for a 33GTR, good luck with the car and updates.

[Billy_Jack]

Nice car! I wonder who owns the other R33 GTR Midnight purple that was sitting at Fraser Wharves last month. It had a CF hood and Sparco hood pins.. RHD maybe?

if it had 3 spoke rims chances are that was mine