Project Modworks Monster R32 GTR

[r32_nate]

Top photo looks like the IACV. Bottom photo looks like the AACV.

AACV is used by ECU when turn steering wheel (bumps rpm up). Without AACV the engine would stall when butterflies in the throttlebodies are closed. The IACV (automatic choke which is activated by heat from engine, voltage and earth) could be swapped for manual choke from early 80's Nissan (Nissan Sunny or similar) if want something different. IACV is only used when engine is warming up (adds extra air on top of what AACV provides to intake plenum to match the engine running rich when cold and slowly closes as the engine warms up / engine runs leaner).

AACV (Auxiliary Air Control Valve)

IACV (Idle Air Control Valve)

http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/217593-aac-stock-oil-cooler-removal-help.html

[r32_nate]

So i deleted the AAC and kinda guessed at a few of the lines, lol T'ing most in, and capping on from the IACV that ran to the AAC. Guess Ill find out today of it worked lol. Plus all my coolant lines are brand new too !!

[r32_nate]

I won $150 amazon gift card, so I just ordered the haltech boost control solenoid too bad it wont be here in time for Monday for my tune

[Skym]

Just thinking, if running MAP sensor it probably would work, as the ECU adjust's to amount of air inside intake plenum.

[r32_nate]

So after breaking 4 spark plugs, and having haltech datalogger tech issues, and 12 hrs at the dyno here, and getting home at 3am and work this morning lol, I finally got the car dialed in. 285hp / 220tq on a mustang dyno. So thats a bit over 320 hp on a down hill dyno , but it works great, spins through second into third now on the street haha. His only suggestion was a smaller hot side, like a .84, maybe a consideration in the future.

Now im thinking, I got my new boost controller on the way, these numbers were at 15.5psi, and 23 degrees timing, how many PSI should i push the bottom end....

[r32_nate]

Okay, so some people asked for a pic of my fuel base and ignition base. here they are

[r32_nate]

So since my number seem low, and a few second opinions on my tune rule that out as the issue, Im starting a list of things i need to do to try and troubleshoot the issue. It seems my two issues are some kind of engine/drivetrain restriction (drive line drag, stuck brakes, air restriction, and/or a very inconsistant ignition signal still, despite the new coils and what not. So, because Im a list person, these will be my next few steps. (not necessarily in this order) Please if their is anything else you can suggest, I will add to my list if it has not already been done.

1.) Full Brake Service - The brakes on the car have sucked since i bought them, stiff pedal with very little brake power. They need to be properly bled and a full slide service and maybe even rotors surfaced, all while making sure none are sticking.

2.) LS2 Coil Pack Conversion - Switching to Yellow Jackets and having a brand new coil pack harness has not changed my original ignition problem, so time to delete the ignition and up the game some

3.) Pull Transmission and check the clutch, flywheel and bearings - I can hear a bad input shaft bearing from time to time, maybe its adding driveline drag if its worse than i think?

4.) New Atessa Pump - Get 4wd working, just 'cuz

5.) Wire fans properly - have haltech control fans by temp instead of them being on with ignition like now, its getting anoying cuz they are loud

6.) Leakdown Test - compression test was good, lets try leakdown

[r32_nate]

So after speaking to some trusted persons, Ive decided to go with a new turbo set up in the spring. Im throwing "budget build" to the wind, and gonna buy a Borg Warner S300SX 61mm .91 a/r (or 1.00 a/r) from full race, aong with a set of Tomei Poncam drop ins. My only fear is this will bring me past the "safe" 350hp threshold for the bottom end. So bottom end build could be in the works too depending on what this puts out in the spring. Im debating a new twinscroll manifold instead of the cams aswell, i refuse to pay the crazy $2250 for full race manifold, so im gonna be looking around for a used decent single manifold too.

Oh and polished a set of valve covers tonight (so my red tops will be for sale soon) as these should look pretty killer with the soon to be started LS2 coil swap. I sourced coils with pig tails for $40 today locally haha. Ill post pics of te valve cover set up in the morning

[bobbo]

Who told you you could only make 350 on the bottom end?!? That's horse $hi+!
There are LOTS of guys making over 500 crank (I'm almost there) reliably.
Your earlier question about how much boost to run? I'm running ~16.5 on our garbage 91 and ran just over 17psi on 93 down in the states.

And regarding your idea of using an LS coil conversion. Although I hear it works well if it were me I'd go the simple and reliable route of the R34 coil conversion RightDrive is selling.
Just my .2

[bobbo]

Some interesting reading when discussing dynos.

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/drivetrain-cooper-s/166641-dynapack-vs-mustang-dyno.html

[r32_nate]

Who told you you could only make 350 on the bottom end?!? That's horse $hi+!
There are LOTS of guys making over 500 crank (I'm almost there) reliably.

My understanding was that 350-400 was the "safe" range for the bottom end. So building ym bottom end would be a waste of money? At what p is it necessary?

And regarding your idea of using an LS coil conversion. Although I hear it works well if it were me I'd go the simple and reliable route of the R34 coil conversion RightDrive is selling.
Just my .2

See the thing is, I can swap to LS2 coils for about $50 and you can say pretty reliably that LS2 coils will work pretty damn good lol, plus no more cooking my coil packs with RB26 heat haha.


BTW heres some pics of what the cars lookin like, and the sick valve cover job

[bobbo]

My understanding was that 350-400 was the "safe" range for the bottom end. So building ym bottom end would be a waste of money? At what p is it necessary?

Are you talking whp or crank? As we know dynos will have an effect when it comes to #s.
The numbers I'm refering to will be Dynapac numbers because that's what mine was tuned on.
IMHO 350-400 can be made with a completely stock motor with boost controller and a good tune. You could drive that to the ends of the earth.
I've proven IF you give a car a safe tune and maintain it properly you can do anything with these cars. As I mentioned to you before on a DynaPac I made 427 wheel at 16.5psi. Probably around 390whp on a Mustang. The car now has 160,000 kms on the clock and it's been driven twice to Circuit Mont Tremblant (14.5 hrs) for 2 day lapping events, I trailored it to Watkins Glen in NY for another 2 day lapping event, I take it to the track every chance I get here at home (4-5 times/year) and the only significant problem I've had the whole time was a popped an intercooler charge hose. The motor has never been opened up.
Does it get driven hard? It's one of the quickest street legal cars at our track often with FTD at our Time Attacks I just never rev over about 7600 rpm and I think that's key.
You'll have no problem making 400 whp on a stock motor with a good tune. Your biggest problem will be our garbage fuel.
Besides, make as much power as you want and when it blows THEN build it better and stronger

[PurpleStreak]

I am close to 500 whp on an essentially stock bottom end (forged pistons). Rod bolts are questionable at that level, time will tell how reliable it will be. The key like bobbo says is to avoid revs above 7k-7.5k and not bounce off the limiter to preserve the oil pump gears.

I second the ls coil conversion, they will be cheaper in the long run.

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk

[r32_nate]

Also just bought Tomei Poncams Type B

[r32_nate]

So my Spring parts pile has started



Next is the turbo...

On a side thought, Im looking into my spare head, and wondering if its usable or not, chime in here if you know...

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-discussion/63413-rb26dett-head-fix-%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A%2A.html#post585933