Project.. !!FREAK!!!

[Kunzz]

Amazing work on the car Chris! Cant wait for you and the guys at Pur Auto to finally reach your HP goal...let me know if you need any of my footage for the thread. I will work on making the full video of the different tuning stages once everything is done *fingers crossed*

For now i'll just leave this here for people to enjoy

[tryingtobebest]

Hey speedfreak, sick project man... So, what turbo are you running now? What ex AR? Didn't quite find clear answer: Timing pulleys are showing RB30, how did you manage to install front diff? Cant really see any spacers!?
What ignition coils?
What Fuel Pump and what injectors?
Also, can you possibly send me your Haltech fuel and ignition map?

[Dragon Humper]

Your issue with your Meth is exactly why I think its a bad idea. Even if you get the Haltec to run it you will always have some sort of issue with it. I would suggest that you cap your boost to 22psi on pump 94 and max out your ignition timing at that pressure. Get them to get really aggressive in the off boost curve to bring in the turbo quicker. I am hitting my target boost sooner than you are and I only have 2.6L and a T88H turbo and manifold. I see you are finally all in at 5700 (based on your torque curve) an I hit all in at 5500 rpm (1.5bar, at 1bar I am all in at only 4800 rpm).

When you want to scare the wee out of yourself dump in some 100 octane unleaded and crank the boost up to 30 psi with the same timing curve you used for the 22psi setting. I run the same curve up to 25 psi and it pulls like an F18 on afterburner. I don't know why tuners even want to go down the road of water/meth, it has WAY more inherent risk in it than having a pump fuel boost setting and a race fuel setting.


Something to think about.....

Oh yea, more info about the final product pls.....



Jon.

[speedfreak]

Hey speedfreak, sick project man... So, what turbo are you running now? What ex AR? Didn't quite find clear answer: Timing pulleys are showing RB30, how did you manage to install front diff? Cant really see any spacers!?
What ignition coils?
What Fuel Pump and what injectors?
Also, can you possibly send me your Haltech fuel and ignition map?

Thnx for the compliments and I'm working on updating the build list.
The turbo is a GT4294R with a 1.01 ex housing.
My ign coils are RS4 coils and for fuel I have 2x Bosch 044 pumps and 1225cc SMP injectors.
As for the oil pan fit there is an adaptor I made but I never took pictures of it.
I really would suggest getting a tune on the dyno just because every setup is different and
One persons maps may not work with another's setups.
The haltech base RB26 maps were good to get it running but far from running at its best.

[speedfreak]

@Dragon Humper

I like input like yours it does good for everyone.
In defense of Stan and Vlad at Pur they both expressed there preference to not run the meth so it was not there
idea but mine and against my gut feeling about AEM I used there product which in the end removed itself(lol)
I am still on the fence about it....
Have you had experience with water/meth injection?

This is my first build of this nature and controlling psi to the mark of 30 has been different.
It seems that the sooner we get the boost to come in the boost spike becomes difficult to settle.
But I do think that more attention to timing down low will up the response.
I was looking at the greddy specs on your turbo and it looks to be slightly smaller on the turbine side about 10mm
It I'm correct so I'm wondering if this too may be a factor.
What do you think?

[Dragon Humper]

I ran the snot out of a Dodge LeBaron with a non-intercooled 2.2l, boosted it to 22psi with nothing but a 5th fuel injector and water/meth. Made about 250whp on a turbo only rated to 225fwhp. It was awesome, I was blowing away Mustangs with the crappy, fake Landau roof flapping in the wind. It was brown too boot. At that level the water stopped, rattled the living hell out of that motor more than a few times, pushed the head gasket out a bit but never blew it up. (tough little buggar)

You have so much invested in that motor I'd hate to read a "so I blew it up today" thread because the water/meth effed up.

Maximizing the off boost curve gave me at least a 700rpm drop to target over the Japanese tune that was in there. It made climbing hills around here much better and a nice bump in city mileage. The only tweeks to the Jland tune on boost was a slight drop in timing at the torque peak so that I can run the car at 1bar on nothing but pump94 even in the 35 deg. heat of summer. In the late fall I can go as high as 1.2bar on 94.

What kind of boost controller are you running again? *EDIT* I re-read the begining, the E-boost should be able to compansate for the spike, they seem to make a big deal about that in their advertizing. Maybe the wastegate is too small if you are having spike issues.

As far as the turbos go, my 400cc deficit and 50mm primary tubes should even us out if your turbine is bigger than mine (response wise). Trust rates the T88H to 950hp, but I have seen guys push them to 1100hp with a 3L bottom end and E85. You should be an easy 1000fwhp on VP110 unleaded. What is your injector duty at 740whp?


Bitchen build by the way, I wish I had that kind of time these days, haven't done a build like that in 10 years.

Jon.

[gtrjon]

I couldnt agree more with John on the issue of water/meth. I also had an aem water meth kit in my car as I planned on going beyond the limits of 94 pump gas. Well first drag night of the season for me last year first pass she blows!! I had my go pro on and i primed my meth kit before and after the pass to make sure it was spraying. My meth flow light was on during the pass but meth wasnt flowing for god knows whatever reason. Lucky for me the damage was minimal as it just blew a couple rings. So this time around I originally bought the aem failsafe gauge and I was going to tie it into my vipec for added safety but i said **** it. I bit the bullet and ordered a 54 gallon drum of shell urt advanced 110 octane (unleaded). Yes its expensive as hell at over 1k after it shows up but it really is the proper way to do it. You have so much more of a safety net with proper fuel and you minimize the risks with less components to fail! just my 2 cents! good luck.

[speedfreak]

I think I'm gonna have a wicked windshield washer pump for sale soon...

Jon- that build list isn't accurate yet as so many things have changed
I am using the Haltech for boost management cause I sold off the eboost in the switch over and im not sure about the duty cycle I'll check that today.

Both of these horror stories are all I've just read online so it a lot more real when people I've seen on here for years can relay these things.
Learning on an old beater that the water system is unreliable is somewhat acceptable but to learn on this will be my divorce LOL.



I am gonna update that parts list today.

[speedfreak]

So I can't update my origional build list post, due to it's age I'm gonna guess.

Here is the breakdown for the RB30 build

Revised parts list.


Cylinder head


Super tech 1mm oversized valves
Super tech bronze guides
Tomei type B poncams
Tomei type B springs.
Combustion chambers all cc matched and full port n polish in/ex
Custom fabricated rear oil drain
Tomei head gasket set
HKS exhaust gaskets
Welded Greddy intake manifold.
STR adjustable cam gears


RB30 Cylinder Block


Wiseco custom pistons top/skirt coated
Resized oil returns
Tomei oil restrictor
Deburr block casting and oil returns
Resized head bolt threads and tapped for idler.
Partial block fill with Hardblok(used original 2.6 coolant passage depth as guide)
Removed oil passage plugs at rear of the block for cleaning,tapped and pipe plugged
Line bored mains with ARP studs
Oil collar
Re-nitrided crank
Balanced crank
Argo connecting rods 22mm pins
ACL bearings
Greddy oil pump modified for external oil pickup
Ross balancer
Custom oil pan adapter
Trust pan extension
Oil pan to tranny bolt holes refabricated
Custom catchcan


Cooling


R34 Koyo rad ( larger than 32)
Spal 16" fan
Samco hoses
Nismo Tstat


Exhaust


Manifold was fabricated from sched40 pipe in a 3 into 2 into 1 design ( thnx again to Manny for the guidance)
Quick spool valve from SP Performance
Garret GT4294R with a 1.01 ex housing.
Wastegate is a modified HKS 50mm racegate with the top half of a 38mm wastegate for clearance reasons.
4" down pipe with a 4" QTP electric dump valve at the bottom.
The rest of the exhaust is still the original that came on the car lol


Fuel system.


Stock pump fills a 4L surge tank
2xBosch 044 pumps ( only 1 runs when off boost)
10an line front to back
SMP 1225cc injectors
Mallory 4 port fpr with a 1:1 riser
STR fuel rail
Hobbs switch for fuel pressure feedback.


Electronics


Haltech Sport 2000 engine and boost control
4 bar map sensor
RS4 ignition coils
Custom harness
NGK coppers

[tryingtobebest]

Thanks alot for this specs, I currently designing my fuel set up and your way of running only one pump when off boost sound genious!))) I honestly was thinking to run EXACTLY same set up stock pump to custom surge tank with 2x023s but at someting like 9v off boost and 14+v when boosting = complicated system!)
But now im definatly going one off boost one on...
WHAT boost level has to be reached for the second one to kick inn!?
And did you hardwire the STOCK pump to run all the time at 14v?

EDIT: Any pics of the fuel system in the trunk?

[speedfreak]

I have the haltech turn the second pump on at 11psi which may seem pretty low boost but I found for normal driving I'm not up there unless I want to be so that keeps the second pump off most of the time. Plus with the larger lines I like the thought that volume is there earlier than I will need it.

I didn't mod the factory pump so it still runs in variable voltage.

Just remember to run the the pumps the way I have it you will need a check valve so pressure isn't lost throught the pump that's off.
Pics I'll get up later.

[Supraclean]

Awesome project/ great looking car man.

Good for you for sticking with it all those years.

Also rb30 mmmmmmmm.

[JZ]

Sweet jesus, amazing thread bump.

You had me at 740 whp

[PurpleStreak]

Don't see too many QSVs on Skylines, do you have a before/after boost vs rpm curve for that? From what I've seen on the 2JZ, the QSV does bring on boost a lot quicker

[speedfreak]

No I don't have a dyno run from before but the difference is noticeable.
We have found that each engine will need the valve to open at difference psi depending on turbo size and engine.
I have tried using a manual boost control valve and it works but digital control like duty cycle is more precise and allows you to stretch out or open it quickly at whatever boost valve you need it to.
This was only visible through dynoing, seat of the pants doesn't work so well at least for me.