Nelsonmxmarc 1993 GTSt Type-M Build / Tips-tricks for HCR32 (Skyleezy!)

[nelsonmxmarc]

Wooooow, why didn't you tell me you put that Monster on the front? I see what you mean now by cutting the re bar. How much weight did it save? Did you do the rear as well?

The suspension looks tighttttt.

Haha thanks man. Ya it looks great, and rb26 IC is a nice addition.

Yup rear rebars cut too.. I shed ~10kg each, so 20 kg by chopping the front and rear! Worth it.

Speaking of suspension looking tight, THIS IS TIGHT;






As well as this!
Center vent delete. Angled down slightly as the dash is contoured, as well as angled towards the driver at the same degree as the center console!

[nelsonmxmarc]

Anyone know what this is?



Was in here;



Has been moved to here;

[nelsonmxmarc]

Goodbye dash bubbles lol



I'm now a qualified seamstress! Much better IMO.. Was going to do white but now i'm glad i didnt..





For sale;


250$ - shipping not included.

[Skym]

I like the stitching of bubble on dash. Nice work. Curious, did you have to drill holes on back of dash, so stitching can go through solid part of back of dash????

Interior expert said you can srcew down a piece of trim over that area to hold it down.

[nelsonmxmarc]

I like the stitching of bubble on dash. Nice work. Curious, did you have to drill holes on back of dash, so stitching can go through solid part of back of dash????

Interior expert said you can srcew down a piece of trim over that area to hold it down.

LOL you got it! Using a small drill, I spaced the holes every quarter inch or so to make a uniform pattern, also, it helps estimate where the next hole is when coming back through the top!

Really wasn't too difficult. You'll need a heatgun or a hairdryer. If the vinyl is warm, it stretches and returns to shape much easier. As well, the needle goes through without too much struggling!

I can grab you pictures of the other side if you like!

[Skym]

If you don't mind, thank you.

With vinyl and leather, I noticed they use steam machine. Similar to from what comes from a iron.

[mitch32]

That gauge pod looks awesome. Wanna make me one?

I like the hellaflushness!!!

[mitch32]

Btw that Nissan thing I believe is the fuel pump voltage regulator.

[LettoGTST]

Yea this image is the FPCM (Fuel pump control module)

[nelsonmxmarc]

That gauge pod looks awesome. Wanna make me one?

I like the hellaflushness!!!

Sure can!
Hahah thanks, me too! lol


Ohhhh i see... Thanks guys. Thankfuly i didnt butcher THAT harness, so i'll put that back.. There is a way to run a constant 12 volts though, from what i remember.. However its just hard on the pump.. Probably better off leaving it in i guess..

[nelsonmxmarc]

And on another note, i have a new FRP GTR bumper and lip to pick up friday Thanks to Blake (trickey) for hooking me up with that!
Also, my engine rebuild gasket kit should be in tomorrow.. And Joe is working on shipping me the proper ARP headstuds by the end of this week, meaning i can potentially have the motor back in the car in the following 2 weeks! Way ahead of schedule, thankfully..

Turbo will be out the door in the next few weeks, and is the last remaining project on the list. I've also played with the idea of doing a steel wheel rebuild MYSELF with my stock RB20 turbo.. The one thing i'm toying with now is that i'd like to keep the spool considerably low as it's more of a 'response > power' vehicle IMO. And due to the sheer weight of the car when its finally complete, even with 320 whp, i'd be content.. I think with stock rb20 turbo with steel wheels at 16-18 psi, tomei cams, my headwork and front facing plenum, i should see FULL pressure at 2500-2800 rpm consistently to 8000..

My only question - namely to Skym who sees more hi-flowing and stock rebuilds on that side of the world, is, is the rb20 turbo capable of seeing that power. I understand the compressor trim/AR may not be sufficient enough, nor would it flow the appropriate CFM's just based on the snail size.. I dont want to run into cavitation problems.. Any input here?

If 320 hp is achievable at the wheels, for instance, i'd prefer to use the stock turbo with a steel wheel, proper balance and new seals, than an rb25 with steel wheel, simply because that's a 600-800 rpm difference in spool and realistically 30-40 hp gain. In my personal opinion, i rather sway to the side of response over sheer power for my application.. Again, simply because after all my calculations, if my car reaches <1100 kg mark, 320 whp is a GREAT hp/weight ratio comparable to a lot of top end cars. I'll still have the advantage and STILL maintain low enough spool levels to have a powerful midrange.

[M13]

You can just ground the big white wire. It's totally fine for the pump if you replaced yours.

I might just scrap my fuel pump harness entirely and make a relay for it.

[nelsonmxmarc]

You can just ground the big white wire. It's totally fine for the pump if you replaced yours.

I might just scrap my fuel pump harness entirely and make a relay for it.

Really eh?
Well i mean for the few grams it saves it's not the most CRUCIAL thing to ditch, but it clears up some wiring in the trunk, and yes i removed all the trunk panelling lol.. Save for the carpet....

I guess in theory, if you ran the pump at 12v consistently, you'd be supplying cooler fuel, as the return rate would be increased what, 2x since regular voltage is 6v under normal load?.. I'm not sure i understand WHEN it runs at 12v or when it's even necessary.. As far as i can tell, when i touch the gas ever so slightly, the pump ramps up to 12 v, meaning it must be running 12 volts no matter how much fuel is being drawn...

[M13]

also keep in mind the voltage doesn't wear out the pump as much as not cooling the pump enough.

Boost a Pump by KB ramps to 17V and they claim it's better than 12V bc it allows more fuel to cool it down.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Did you ditch the voltage regulator and ground the 'white' wire? No issues im assuming?