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Nelsonmxmarc 1993 GTSt Type-M Build / Tips-tricks for HCR32 (Skyleezy!)

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  • So the weld in cage idea is on hiatus at the moment. Legality issues would prompt me to remove it upon sight, and since i removed the tints, it's going to pose a problem.

    On another note, our carbon door sills are almost done! No logo yet, but i'm debating on a GTR or Skyline logo for them..

    Battery relocation kits are in the works, as well as oil catch cans.

    Was supposed to go Mexico next week, but i've decided to stick around and try to get my car and this overwhelming work load complete! Haven't yet posted a GB or FS add and business has been great thanks to you all! Big props to the GTRC community for that!

    Would REALLY love to get my headstuds, but i have absolutely no idea where they are and i'm becoming incredibly impatient. The car needs to be running and 99% done by March 15th.

    Turbo ships out Tuesday. Should have that back the following week. If the studs are here by then, i'll have my motor reassembled and back in the car the same day! Then all that's left is to route my new oil cooler lines and fittings, place, cut and weld my intercooler pipes up to my front facing plenum, lengthen my throttle cable (or s13 cable apparently works), fashion a hard-pipe kit for the intake and change my rear pads!

    Going to order a new rad, either koyo or mishimoto and may run e-fans, but that can wait til the car is back together.

    And.... Upper control arms for the rear, because my camber is out of control. This is a BIG maybe, but i've been looking at modifying the stock RUCAS with adjustment tabs.. I feel that it'll cost more than ordering the AMS kit so i may just finish my suspension off completely and order everything from them..

    Then... Run an inline fuel filter, 40 microns or so.. Allows me to clean it rather than swap out the OEM every 20,000 km's, not that its a big deal, but i'll extend the line so that its easier to access. OEM placement is a bit of a pain with the lower hose.

    Oh and then fit my AN valve cover fittings and run - lines off that to my catch can setup, atmospheric, since i didnt want to re-tap my plenum for the PCV valve. Tune will rid of this demon. As long as the lines are sufficient in size (-10 min), then breather problems are not an issue. I've had my fair share of experience with smaller diameter hose..

    What else.. I think that's actually it. I feel like i've spent HOURS working on my car and it hasn't gone anywhere, it's incredibly discouraging lol. I'm sure it will pay off come dyno day; hopefully the first week of April if i'm lucky!

    After countless hours spent reading about turbos and such, as well as nice article from Skym, i've finally decided on a specific setup. Will cost a bit more than i would have liked, but it's going to produce quite a bit more midrange, and still see full boost in the same area, i hope.
    It's going to be a hi-flowed RB25, that's for certain. I wont go into details now..
    The only issue with response is my large RB26 intercooler, but i think that, coupled with 2.5" pipes throughout, front facing plenum (kills at least 4 feet of piping), and my head work as well as all the gasket matching and etc, i should still see low rpm spool.
    Running High rpm won't pose too much of a threat since the pistons/rods/bearings and etc aren't stock/old, and i am running an oil cooler. But i'd still like to keep the band within the 3000-7500 rpm range for reliability.

    Made 281 whp (at 18 degrees) with a stock turbo/motor at about 15 psi.. With this new setup and turbo, i'm actually thinking i'll see more than my expected goal of 320-340. At 18 psi i should hope to see 360 and perhaps more.

    The transmission has been rebuilt, bearings and etc. We'll see if it's still noisy. I'm not worried about breaking the gearset. The final our projected weight of the car is what i'm hoping to be 300kg less than stock, which means 300kg less work on the drivetrain. In theory, the proportion of weight to power in which gearsets break will be nearly equivalent to this new power/weight, which means it should be fine. Only other factor is friction (tires). However, again, its reduced weight should help warrant any problems.

    I guess we'll see!!
    Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
    www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
    Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
    Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

    Comment


    • had a quick looksy on MR, chapters heh? :P
      sigpic

      [links to all chapters in first post]

      Comment


      • Originally posted by frankiman View Post
        had a quick looksy on MR, chapters heh? :P
        Ya, sorry to infringe copyright.
        lol

        I also put them here http://nelsonmx.wordpress.com/r32-skyline-build/ .. and SAU.. and GTRPWR.. Chapters for days
        Last edited by nelsonmxmarc; 02-13-2011, 09:47 PM.
        Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
        www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
        Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
        Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

        Comment


        • chapters are good, so much awesomeness on your site

          About the AC delete...what do you do when you're driving in the rain in summer with the windows rolled up and the windows get fogged up?? Right now I only use the AC for defogging the windows when its raining...other than that its windows down for air conditioning

          Comment


          • Thanks man!

            You know, its funny.. I haven't had AC for the last 2 seasons and am yet to have an issue.. I find as long as the air temp is at it's lowest-coldest setting, and the fan speed is highest, or second highest, you can get away without AC and manage to defog the windows without an issue.

            Usually i crack the window open slightly, but i think the fan manages on it's own.
            Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
            www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
            Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
            Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

            Comment


            • Yeah that sounds like it could work...well then, the AC has to go! Thanks

              Comment


              • Originally posted by nelsonmxmarc View Post
                Nice! Where'd you get the relay? I think i'll go about doing this too, since i've already relocated the battery to the trunk.. Basically just cut the white wire out of the equation, splice in a relay, and feed the 12 gauge to the battery +? Any reason to redo the ground, or is the ground in the circuit with the ECU?
                Is this a must if you want to run a larger fuel pump? I have a tomei now
                Miss driving sooooo bad! Need to get a car on the road ASAP!

                Comment


                • Not a must. You can use the 12v source from the rear defroster to 'boost' up the voltage to the pump. Theres a few DIY's roaming about. The easiest and most efficient solution is to run a direct 12v source, however. It's even easier if you've relocated your battery to the trunk. If you haven't, use the defroster 12v - if you don't want to, now's a good time to relocate the battery
                  Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
                  www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
                  Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
                  Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

                  Comment


                  • What fuse does that rear defrost use on its circuit? and what else is on that circuit?
                    ALLEN PETERSEN
                    Number (604) 961-2449
                    4XTOYS/ Lower Mainland Skyline Service and aftermarket RB parts.
                    RB30`s for sale!

                    Comment


                    • Just rear defrost and if I'm not mistaken, 20 amps.
                      Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
                      www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
                      Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
                      Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

                      Comment


                      • ahh, thats fair enough then. Never heard of this idea before and wasnt sure if it was on an acc fuse with other junk on it.
                        ALLEN PETERSEN
                        Number (604) 961-2449
                        4XTOYS/ Lower Mainland Skyline Service and aftermarket RB parts.
                        RB30`s for sale!

                        Comment


                        • Yup! I had no idea either but when our local tuner here hooked up my friends tomei pump, he advised we run the extra juice otherwise it would have a hard time pumping out whatever LPH it's rated for. Only issue is, you no longer have a rear defroster.. However one cool thing about it is, is that your rear defroster button now doubles as a fuel pump kill switch And the wiring is 12 gauge i think? It's pretty much perfect! :P
                          Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
                          www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
                          Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
                          Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

                          Comment


                          • So i've been really busy lately.. And my ARP studs are lost somewhere in ARP land, so my engine reinstall is on hiatus.
                            In the mean time i've been running speaker wire for my new setup.. Leaning towards Infinity Reference 6030US fronts; 2 way component, and 6032US rears, 2 way, standard format. The rears will pump out a nice low freq, and i can manage to tune the crossover to gain some mids up front between the highs on the tweeter and lows on the main. Should sound awesome! Hopefully cuts out all the external drone on long drives after the exhaust note is beyond killed. And yes, these will be run on an amp.

                            I sent my turbo off.. After a long conversation with Herman at Cherry turbos ( outstanding guy btw! ), we decided on a pretty radical design.. I wont say much yet, but i can honestly say i dont think it's ever been done.. To my knowledge the largest CHRA fitted to RB25 housings was a 2871.. This is going to be quite a bit bigger.. We figure solid spool around the 3200 mark, but possibility of 400+ whp.. Should be a really nice setup!

                            I relocated my battery, and as i may have mentioned, i'll be making custom battery relocation boxes soon. Unfortunately when i fabbed this one up, i was using some hefty 16th inch filler rod.. 32nd rod would have been ideal but i was kind of antsy to get it done. None the less, it's done! Not as nice as i would have liked, but for a trial it turned out great!
                            And yes, there is a top; i'll get another photo soon.



                            Anyways, the wires tucked nicely, and the fuse for my amp is in there as well so there is literally nothing in my trunk but this black box!

                            My amp is hidden away nicely I'll get some photos of that as well.. Basically, if you imagine where the spare tire sits, its on the far side towards the back, and slightly towards the passenger (Weight distribution? lol..). The wood cover fits over without a problem, as does the carpet; like it was never there!


                            Oh.. and i cant seem to get my fuel pump to turn over. I'm worried that whilst in my wild hacking of wires phase, i may have removed something detrimental to the system.. LOL
                            As far as i can tell, i havent. All the wires to and from the pump are there, so i dont know.. Can't quite put my finger on it unfortunately and i'd like to sort it out so i can put my interior back together in the mean time.

                            Where is the relay for the fuel pump? and are there any grounds in the engine bay that are part of the fuel pump system? All grounds, earth, ecu wires are untouched, so you can see why i'm a bit confused!

                            Any info here would be great!
                            Last edited by nelsonmxmarc; 02-22-2011, 03:50 AM.
                            Check out the GTST Projects page and keep up to date with my build!
                            www.nelsonmx.wordpress.com
                            Like us on Facebook! www.facebook.com/NelsonMX
                            Any part inquiries can be forwarded to marc@nelsonmx.com

                            Comment


                            • Marc, I'me sure you checked to see if you got voltage at the pump, if so I hope this helps. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...el-pump-relay/
                              sigpic

                              Comment


                              • batt. relocate

                                BTW how did you bolt down your batt. box? I am doing the same thing and it looks like I have to remove the muffler heat shield to drill holes into the trunk.
                                sigpic

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