Nelsonmxmarc 1993 GTSt Type-M Build / Tips-tricks for HCR32 (Skyleezy!)

[archaeic_bloke]

SMS Sent!!! lol

[nelsonmxmarc]

SMS Sent!!! lol

Lol douche. I'm down, sorry i didnt text you back, got caught up with some stuff! I probably wont even go to class monday, so anytime lol.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Engine is coming along!

For reference, ARP studs use a 12 point, 1/2" socket. The only issue is clearance on the head and most 1/2" drive sockets do not fit (the tooling size, not the nut size). So 3/8" is a safe bet. Another issue to be aware of is the socket depth or shelf as some are quite shallow, and the stud protruding will hit this and hinder you from getting good contact. Most mastercraft and craftsman tools are like this and don't work.

I picked up a 12 point 1/2", 1/2" drive from West tool, it fit, just, and since the final torque on the ARP studs is 80-85 ft lbs, you'll most definitely be using a 1/2" drive torque wrench. So this is a good option, its slim and fits great (that's what she said)!

So... Head's on;



Torque sequence went something like 25 ft lbs .. 55 ft lbs... 85 ft lbs.. inside out.



Cams;



So since there's a lot of broken poncams and cams in general circulating, i was obvious hesitant to jump into this.. However it went quite smoothly..

Since the motor is at TDC, and the TDC marks for the cams are about 15 degrees up from 0, there are going to be lobes contacting and compressing valves. This makes the install a bit tedious and time consuming.. The first thing you'll notice in the FSM is that the torque sequence is outside in. Starting at the front raises flags off the bat. The lobes touching are on either cylinder 3 or 4 (can't remember) and forces the cam to ****. Since this is quite far back, it means you should NOT be tightening down bolts 1 and 2 off the bat. Nurse the lobes into position as they're producing the greatest force on the whole. Once this starts to settle, then work the rest into place and it should go flawlessly. You need to take your time, and i find the sequencing in the FSM is garbage. Focus on getting it in place, then make sure that contact point always has a good amount of torque, avoid cocking the unit and it should be okay.





And voila..



Now, i thought i had 2 new idler/tensioner pulleys sitting around but i dont, and since i dont want to dig into this again, i'll be changing all belts, idler/tensioner and rear main (Again fml lol). I should have all that next week! Along with my Redline trans oil, fresh Hawk pads, AMS RUCAS/FUCAS and tension rods, and my new turbo
OH and of course, a new shifter bushing for my sloppy shifter.

[M13]

good. The torque specs are easy to follow. I have yet to break my cams yet. Pretty simple procedure.

As for the head, did you make sure to loosen all the way after a torque sequence to "seat" the gasket?

Make sure to get a new tensioner stud too. 5 bux insurance.

[nelsonmxmarc]

good. The torque specs are easy to follow. I have yet to break my cams yet. Pretty simple procedure.

As for the head, did you make sure to loosen all the way after a torque sequence to "seat" the gasket?

Make sure to get a new tensioner stud too. 5 bux insurance.

I spoke to our guy here at Autoworx and he's like fu the tensioner bolt. I told him about the sheering issue and he seems to think its just shoddy install, or over tightening. I mean, its like 4.5 kg/m... so like 36 ballpark ft/lbs. It isnt CRAZY so i just dont get it. But yea, i'll change it regardless..

You know.. I debated the whole head tightening sequence in the FSM.. I've read mixed reviews from everywhere saying that the FSM seating step isn't necessary, and as long as you do an even torque sequence across in 3 stages, you're more than set. I honestly dont know. There was a write up on some s13 forum about it, saying that ARP has recommended they skip the step to properly ensure the studs seat? Not sure what to believe. As far as i know, i wouldn't be concerned with an MLS gasket, but perhaps a copper or lead gasket i'd be more inclined to follow that step?

[Supraclean]

Looks good marc, you get what I ment by geting it started now hey. Kinda of a PITA really but after its straight its smooth sailing. Also good call on the shifter bushing, my cusco one should be here anyday:P

Also what Cams did you get? 256?

[nelsonmxmarc]

Yup definitely a bit of a pain but once you get into the groove you start to stress less about them breaking in half.

Yea, 256 - poncams.


On another note - about headgasket torque sequence - i spoke to an engineer at LN engineering who uses ARP studs for nearly all applications, he said not to release the head back to 0. He said that the ARP studs don't stretch, and releasing them to 0 isn't a necessary step, in fact, he said it's better to do the torque sequence in the 3 steps ARP recommends (ie. 25-55-85 ft/lbs).
Also, he said that MLS headgaskets and seating arrangements for head gaskets isn't stringent (basically just torque it down in the normal inside out pattern in 3 steps). Normally it's best to place it on the deck, torque it down and leave it to not disturb the gasket.

[nelsonmxmarc]

Oh yea, i cleaned my seats the other day with a steam cleaner.. Lol

So there's a lot more fart and ball sweat in these than i had imagined.. Definitely worth doing IMO..

Before;



2 buckets of this..



and after.. i dont have, but i'll get one.. they definitely look a lot better than the first pic.. and smell fantastic!

[cobrAA]

Marc, let me know if you would be down to do me a brake stopper and stop doing detailing grrr! I will do it for you haha!

[cschepp]

Still waiting on payment info for the cf stuff Marc. Oh ya I will be texting you within the next few days about the gtr bumper I might have for you

[jdms13rhd]

Nasty. I did the same some years ago. Forgot how sick the water is. Thats almost pure fart and swas I bet. lolz.

[M13]

that's nothin', you should have seen the seat juice that came out of this van I bought for 350....


PUDDING.

[jdms13rhd]

haha poo-ding

[Stuntmonkey]

What sort of steam cleaner did you use? I've been having trouble finding one other than the rug doctor types.

[nelsonmxmarc]

The one on the left (though i think they're both the same). Worked wonders! Just make sure the water is good and hot, and use a good, deep-cleaning soap or something that will break down the goop goop.