Project NashZilla: R32 GT-T NEO

[amnash]

its actually really easy. was my first engine removal. just make sure everything is removed and dont force anything. the pics showing how i removed mine is the easiest way (with both manifolds off etc)
but definitely not needed. im putting it back in with everything on the motor lol

edit: to answer ur question about the chain.. you can thread bolts into the front right corner and rear left corner(from drivers perspective) of the head of the engine. u can see in the pics too :P

[M13]

I strongly advise agianst it as it just cost me my engine. Tensioner backed off, belt vibration Sheered off bolt and valves met pistons BAM! Its 2$ to replace the bolt and nut+washer. Put lock tight on it even the red stuff you have!

Just watchen out for ya man.

You shouldn't need to put a red loc-tite on the nut/thread, as FSM does not mention it nor do local shops.

Follow correct torque specs and the wash facing (it's a conical washer, and needs to be placed PROPERLY)

Adam, did you use N1 oil pump or regular?


cheers

[amnash]

ya i have a FSM printed out, so i know how the lock washer goes with torque. but if ive come this far ill swap it out. i have to wait a while for my lower timing belt sprocket to come in from nissan anyways
+
its an N1 oil pump

[M13]

Cool, and the oil pan bolted right up to it?

[Supraclean]

[QUOTE=M13;466022]You shouldn't need to put a red loc-tite on the nut/thread, as FSM does not mention it nor do local shops.

Follow correct torque specs and the wash facing (it's a conical washer, and needs to be placed PROPERLY)

Ill agree that the loc tite is probably to much but I can tell you 100% that the washers bolts/ and torque spec was dead on used with a brand new Torque wrench. Just would hate to see it happen to anyone else.

Hope you get her up and running soon man, break her in gently:P

[amnash]

[QUOTE=Supraclean;466132]

You shouldn't need to put a red loc-tite on the nut/thread, as FSM does not mention it nor do local shops.

Follow correct torque specs and the wash facing (it's a conical washer, and needs to be placed PROPERLY)

Ill agree that the loc tite is probably to much but I can tell you 100% that the washers bolts/ and torque spec was dead on used with a brand new Torque wrench. Just would hate to see it happen to anyone else.

Hope you get her up and running soon man, break her in gently:P

no worries, ive got all new hardware on there now, only took nissan a day. put on with blue thread locker

Cool, and the oil pan bolted right up to it?

dont actually have the pan on yet because i have to put the rear main on first(hopefully tomorrow) but should be fine.

[M13]

Blue loctite is better for engine stuff IMO bc RED is "heat" activated, as in it deactivates when heat is applied.

Engine sees heat of 100-200C all the time, so blue would be better. Blue is designed for vibration resistance and will come loose from torque break.

[amnash]

set the cam timing today, it looks like both cams were only set to 10 degrees instead of 15 factory spec.. :S
i used the edge of a piece of paper from the center of each cam for my horizontal reference then used a math protractor lol i couldnt think of another way
you can see the white line behind the gear thats the old alignment mark.. odd.


also, engines going in

[amnash]

engines in and cleaned up the shop



my fuel leak issue is back... this is driving me nuts, this has been happening since the day i bought it..
#3 injector is now leaking, i noticed it when installing cam cover.
while trying to avoid this stupid leak from coming back i had both sets of injectors leak tested turns out a couple from each set were leaky.
so i made sure i had a good set of injectors, all new oring's and seals and even went as far as a light coat of prc when installing.

and now its back.. im thinking maybe my fuel pressure is way to high and it keeps blowing out my injectors. is this even possible?

[amnash]

i have two leak tested injectors here, ill change the seals on all of them, put a different injector in the leaky spot be liberal with the prc.

ive ordered new 550cc SARD injectors by Denso. when they come in ill set the wiring loom back to high resistance and put these in. im tired of dealing with these old ass gtr injectors lol

[amnash]

and now its back.. im thinking maybe my fuel pressure is way to high and it keeps blowing out my injectors. is this even possible?

made up a new fuel line to monitor the fuel pressure

new vs old

[amnash]

so its been 6 months. car is running well with only a rough idle. put a driving permit on it for yesterday and today to get the engine broken in a little and to stretch her legs(its been over a year since on the road). man what a fun day this has been.
first thing to do was give it a good wash. had been outside collecting dirt for a year.



Who said skylines aren't practical?

[Xeno-Vibe]

been to busy with car/work/exams to feed myself lol steady diet of mcdicks at the moment.

Wow, just wow. LOL.

[amnash]

assembled the fan shroud to the rad today and installed it:





theres not enough clearance with the p/s pump in there:





i could just remove the fans and have one big electric fan..but i like this set up to much. so im going to run a electric power steering pump out of a toyota MRII. havn't done much research on it yet but it should be fairly simple. if anyone has any experiance or has found any good threads on running electrical p/s systems in the r32 post it up

[Supraclean]

I'd say ask M13 and don't run a PS pump at all:P

Yea allot of people run into the same problem. I ended up mounting one fan as a pusher/ and one as a puller fan. I don't have the mishimoto setup but same deal. If you run one big flex-i-lite fan with controller that works 2.