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alright, first its hard for you guys to answer my problem because you are missing a bunch of valuable info, because i'm still late in my chapters
1. i've installed brand new splitfire coilpacks month ago, that were first tested on Mitch's car and ran perfectly
2. none of my injectors are leaking
3. during its recent 2 week stay at autoworx 2 important things were done;
3,1 the whole intake system was pressurized for a leak test, minor leaks were corrected by tightening clamps (so no vac leaks)
3,2 my old school bovs on the passenger side were remove, 1 flange was plugged, a stock recirc vavle was mounted on the 2nd flange and connected back into the recirc Y pipe
4, the atmo BOV have absolutely no link to this problem, since everything happens off boost
so i went to Almasi tonight (lucky me i booked an appointment 2 weeks ago)
we found the problem
at first i explained my problem to Robin, he really couldn't see what the problem could be
i clearly explained everything that happened and when it would happen, even showed him the pics of the backfire and small blue flame (not a backfire, much worst)
he really like the blue flame one
then we put the car on the dyno, check its idle, then kept the RPMs at 3000
it kept doing "Pff Pff Pff" and such
AFRs were all over the place, good thing the UEGO wideband is digital because a mechanical needle wouldn't have been able to move fast enough
then put it in gear and tried to keep it at 100km/h, again Pff Pff
so then he checked the consult on his laptop and adjusted the TPS to the correct voltage
after that was done, he just kept staring at the screen
after a couple minutes, he went; WTF
the O2 sensor signals were completely f'ed up
so he went to check on the connectors,
the O2 sensors were swapped !
i mean, the connectors are different so you can't swap them this way, the actual sending units were each plugged into the other's dump pipe
un-ending loop
when sensor#1 was rich, it told sensor#2's injectors to go lean
then sensor#2 runs lean, and tells sensor#1's injectors to go rich
thus the un-ending loop
thats why i had a blue flame constantly coming out the back
3 cylinders were running FULL RICH
3 cylinders were running FULL LEAN
thus creating the perfect mixture of air/fuel in the exhaust
and a blue flame is very bad news, it means the flame is extremely hot, much hotter than an orange flame
so instead of physically swapping the O2 sensor back, which would have taken the whole afternoon, Robin simply swapped the pin-out in the ECU board, which took 2 minutes for the exact same result
another thing i already knew and everyone should know, is that the GTR ECU uses the O2 signal only when its under ~4lbs of boost, after that it only relies on MAF and boost signal
thats why i had absolutely no problem under boost
then fired the car back up, and it ran PERFECTLY
did a couple pulls and ALL my issues were gone, and almost no more turbo shuffling either
YEY
than Robin re-tuned the car with the proper boost controller settings i was doing from the passenger seat
the bad news, driving 500+km with that issue hasn't been good on the engine, either the spark plugs are destroyed (completely burnt or fooled)
or as Robin said, maybe i melted something in the cat back (HKS Legal) and made it much more restrictive
or i messed up the compression in some cylinders,
..because i lost 26whp
even with a much MUCH better looking boost curve
then i drove home, and i must say the car has NEVER ran so well, its unbeleivable how smooth it is now,
and another good things is that i'm still doing small backfires, but the usual "correct" way, just when i let off the gas completely,
thats because of the decat
then it immediatly goes to full lean like it should
i love my car !!!!!!!!!
about the LED thing,
i put it on last year, must never have talked about it
its simply a 60cm LED/silicon strip, spliced into the driver side brake light
the strip is stuck right between both taillights, but is hidden by the edge of the trunk
so you from the back all you see is a glowing red line, not the individual LEDs
this is my way of having a 3rd brake lights, even if its still not legal (3rd brake light needs to be higher than the tailights)
even Haig @autoworx was impressed by my idea
pics from last year
(they were hard to dig up)
1. i've installed brand new splitfire coilpacks month ago, that were first tested on Mitch's car and ran perfectly
2. none of my injectors are leaking
3. during its recent 2 week stay at autoworx 2 important things were done;
3,1 the whole intake system was pressurized for a leak test, minor leaks were corrected by tightening clamps (so no vac leaks)
3,2 my old school bovs on the passenger side were remove, 1 flange was plugged, a stock recirc vavle was mounted on the 2nd flange and connected back into the recirc Y pipe
4, the atmo BOV have absolutely no link to this problem, since everything happens off boost
so i went to Almasi tonight (lucky me i booked an appointment 2 weeks ago)
we found the problem
at first i explained my problem to Robin, he really couldn't see what the problem could be
i clearly explained everything that happened and when it would happen, even showed him the pics of the backfire and small blue flame (not a backfire, much worst)
he really like the blue flame one
then we put the car on the dyno, check its idle, then kept the RPMs at 3000
it kept doing "Pff Pff Pff" and such
AFRs were all over the place, good thing the UEGO wideband is digital because a mechanical needle wouldn't have been able to move fast enough
then put it in gear and tried to keep it at 100km/h, again Pff Pff
so then he checked the consult on his laptop and adjusted the TPS to the correct voltage
after that was done, he just kept staring at the screen
after a couple minutes, he went; WTF
the O2 sensor signals were completely f'ed up
so he went to check on the connectors,
the O2 sensors were swapped !
i mean, the connectors are different so you can't swap them this way, the actual sending units were each plugged into the other's dump pipe
un-ending loop
when sensor#1 was rich, it told sensor#2's injectors to go lean
then sensor#2 runs lean, and tells sensor#1's injectors to go rich
thus the un-ending loop
thats why i had a blue flame constantly coming out the back
3 cylinders were running FULL RICH
3 cylinders were running FULL LEAN
thus creating the perfect mixture of air/fuel in the exhaust
and a blue flame is very bad news, it means the flame is extremely hot, much hotter than an orange flame
so instead of physically swapping the O2 sensor back, which would have taken the whole afternoon, Robin simply swapped the pin-out in the ECU board, which took 2 minutes for the exact same result
another thing i already knew and everyone should know, is that the GTR ECU uses the O2 signal only when its under ~4lbs of boost, after that it only relies on MAF and boost signal
thats why i had absolutely no problem under boost
then fired the car back up, and it ran PERFECTLY
did a couple pulls and ALL my issues were gone, and almost no more turbo shuffling either
YEY
than Robin re-tuned the car with the proper boost controller settings i was doing from the passenger seat
the bad news, driving 500+km with that issue hasn't been good on the engine, either the spark plugs are destroyed (completely burnt or fooled)
or as Robin said, maybe i melted something in the cat back (HKS Legal) and made it much more restrictive
or i messed up the compression in some cylinders,
..because i lost 26whp
even with a much MUCH better looking boost curve
then i drove home, and i must say the car has NEVER ran so well, its unbeleivable how smooth it is now,
and another good things is that i'm still doing small backfires, but the usual "correct" way, just when i let off the gas completely,
thats because of the decat
then it immediatly goes to full lean like it should
i love my car !!!!!!!!!
about the LED thing,
i put it on last year, must never have talked about it
its simply a 60cm LED/silicon strip, spliced into the driver side brake light
the strip is stuck right between both taillights, but is hidden by the edge of the trunk
so you from the back all you see is a glowing red line, not the individual LEDs
this is my way of having a 3rd brake lights, even if its still not legal (3rd brake light needs to be higher than the tailights)
even Haig @autoworx was impressed by my idea
pics from last year
(they were hard to dig up)
Best post yet!
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