My 1995 GTR project thread.

[cortexx]

AT LAST - the materials list for the catch can plumbing (all russel parts) :-

6 ft -12 Nylon PROCLASSIC HOSE #632213
3x PROCLASSIC 90° FULL FLOW SWIVEL HOSE ENDS #613193
2X PROCLASSIC 45° FULL FLOW SWIVEL HOSE ENDS #613123
2X -12 AN 3/4" NPT 45° Black Flare to Pipe Adapter #660893


Basic Instructions for plumbing installation of a RIPS oil catch can / washer tank :-

Buy a tank from RIPS

Remove the factory breather fittings from your cam covers (see further back in the thread to learn how NOT to do it)
Machine the holes out and cut 3/4 npt threads.
Install part number #660893 into each cam cover and pint in the direction you want the lines to route.
Make up 2 lines using part number #613193 on one end and part number #613123 on the other end to run from the cam covers to the rips tank
Make up a drain line from a length of hose and part number #613193 and either plumb it back into the oil pan through a turbo drain using a y- adapter OR vent to road or plug
cap off the other fitting on the side of the tank with a russel -12 blank cap ( cant find it on their site )

that just about covers it , if you want pics look back in the thread - the rest is common sence

[quadracer111]

Wow, I love your car.

You do such neat work. Did your defi come with a remote for playback, and changing settings? My car has the same main box yours does (CR gauges), but it looks like someone ripped the remote out during transit.

[JDMricer]

Dash looks great! I did the same thing, it was a ****ing skank, took a long time to get it perfect, Chances are you'll have a few spots once the sun hits it on a hot day that wants to peel a bit but a bit of elbow grease and youll get er. Some people aren't crazy about it, but if you saw what a 15-16 year old r33 dash looked like youd understand. Gotta admit I'm pretty jealous since our cars are very similar cept, mnp r33 gtr, carbon wing, carbon dash, just yours is much much faster now

Sucks the gauge faces on the new defis are white though. I wanted to do the same thing with a triple pod with mine but I couldnt bring myself to build up the balls to drill through the dash, props for having the balls to do it.

[cortexx]

Thanks guys

I do have the remote for the gauge controller , i havnt played with it much yet , it allows me to set limits for the alarms on each gauge including the oil pressure which i hate when i first get in and put the key in it goes right through my head until the engines running and the pressure goes above 1.5 . Also records and plays back about 5 minutes of gauge activity too .

I'm actually going to install a fuel cut solenoid that operates if low oil pressure is detected so i wont need the alarm for it.

The hole for the small cable was done by cutting an H pattern in the dash material , taping the 2 flaps back and then drilling a small hole through the plastic underneath. This allows me to reseal the dash with the 2 flaps later if i want to remove the pod and leaves an almost undetectable mark where it used to be . ( upholsterer friend gave me that tip The key is to not remove ANY dash cover material.

The cableing took a long time , I swear the worst part is passing it behind the drivers side inner fender skin into the drivers footwell then passing it over the steering column and onto where it has to go. I'm not the most flexible person lol.

I liked the CR gauges over the BF gauges , they are pretty neutral at night , and arnt a big source of light during the day and they match the factory gauges to some degree.

I'm still waiting for the primer to come from 3M , been 3 weeks now and im beginning to lose patience , i'll probably end up removing it again , reheating and crazyglueing the offending pieces back into place (3M suggested this btw) .

[cortexx]

Actually i'm patiently waiting for the plenum and the rest of my parts to arrive for my fuel system .

Stuff i already have:-

Tomei fuel pump
HKS rail
HKS 680cc injectors
Sard FPR
Russel -6 black braided line for fuel line
Russel black silver 120deg , 90deg and straight -6 an fittings to plumb in the fuel rail


Stuff im waiting on:-

Nismo plenum
Russel -6 an billet aluminium Y splitter block
More Russel 90 Degree and straight black and silver full flow fittings
Russel Billet racing fuel filter ( 10 micro paper cartridge )
Russel oem fuel line to aluminum -6 an push on fittings .
Nissan water hose kit
Russel fuel pressure gauge

then ill install my :-

power fc with datalogit box and tune it all with fcedit and co-pilot

then i might dyno it to see what a hash i make of tuning it myself

[quadracer111]

Dash looks great! I did the same thing, it was a ****ing skank, took a long time to get it perfect, Chances are you'll have a few spots once the sun hits it on a hot day that wants to peel a bit but a bit of elbow grease and youll get er. Some people aren't crazy about it, but if you saw what a 15-16 year old r33 dash looked like youd understand. Gotta admit I'm pretty jealous since our cars are very similar cept, mnp r33 gtr, carbon wing, carbon dash, just yours is much much faster now

Sucks the gauge faces on the new defis are white though. I wanted to do the same thing with a triple pod with mine but I couldnt bring myself to build up the balls to drill through the dash, props for having the balls to do it.

The defi advance CR's come in black faced as well..

That is a genius idea with the H pattern.

[RWD_GTR]

do you have any extra -12 nylon braided line? i wouldnt mind buying if you wanna sell some.

[cortexx]

I bought a box of it and i do have some left over , i'm going to need a bit more but once iv'e used what i need i'll let you know what i have left and sure you can buy it

do you have any extra -12 nylon braided line? i wouldnt mind buying if you wanna sell some.

[MikeyRHD]

Hey dude, so I was wondering how you are liking those turbos so far? I know you haven't finished everything and tuned it all up but just curious how they are working out for ya =)

[cortexx]

The Turbos are great , they start to spool at 3200 rpm range and hit full spool by around 4500 depending on what gear im in. The spool time will be faster after i install tweaked poncams b's and a nismo plenum. Also considering a Zex nitrous express intercooler sprayer for track work.

No turbo shuffle , very linear power build with lots of torque - hoping for alot more with fuel system upgrades only running .8 bar atm .

When all is said and done i want 500 awhp but with ultimate response

[cortexx]

Stardate 5:9:2011 (labourday)

Ok - finally after about 8 months of my diffuser sitting on top of my wifes dune buggy i decide it's time to install it. I've been a bit apprehensive about doing this because the source of the carbon parts i bought has not been of the greatest quality , I almost put this piece up for sale a few times , but this weekend i decided to throw caution to the wind and use it.

On inspection , the quality of the carbon mouldings are very good , it's a repro of the top secret rear diffuser for an R33 GTR . The only minor gripe at this stage was that the holes used to hold the bolts that hold the main piece to the side pieces do not match up. There are 3 of them and i made the outside 2 each side match up with a dremel .

Everything was mocked up and propped into place to see where it all went , because my car is lowered on Zeal coilovers it became apparent that the diffuser would travel a mere 2 inches above the ground , so i set out to mount it slightly higher .

The kit came with 4 brackets . The first bracket holds the rear up and attaches it to the lower number plate frame bolt , this worked perfectly, The side pieces were held in place utilizing the existing trim mounts behind the back wheels on the fenders . This is great because i didnt really want to be drilling new holes in the sheet steel.

The 2 long brackets hold the leading edge of the diffuser up under the car . They anchor on either side inline with the rear frame rails. BUT like i said they were too long. So i set about making new ones .

Using some aluminum bar (from home depot) i cut a couple of lengths 23cm long to use as suspender brackets. I like aluminium , its cheap , light and easy to work with and doesn't rust like steel.



I drilled holes in each end on my trusty pillar drill



21 cm from hole to hole (im including the measurements incase anyone else wants to replicate what im doing)



insert the bar in the vice to engle one of the ends (this is the end that bolts to and fits flush against the frame rail , incidentally , the drivers side fuel line bracket will share the same bolt as this bracket. The passeneger side frame rail had a tapped thread already to use from the factory

BTW the smelly rag is because i am going to hammer the bar to get a clean bend and dont want to damage the finish on the aluminium.



hammer the bracket close to the vice to get a nice clean bend



Remove smelly rag and it should look something like this



Wrinse and repeat once and you'll have 2 brackets that should look something like this :-



This next picture shows you where it bolts to the frame , picture is taken between the tire on the right and the inner fender liner on the left . It's a bit fiddly to get in but not to bad to do.



attachement at the bottom is simple because there are mounting tabs already moulded into the carbon



There is also a bracket that comes within an inch of the hicas at the back , i knew the hicas had to be useful for something so i used the fourth bracket that came with the kit , chopped a couple of inches off it and bolted the center of the diffuser to it .



This is a side view so that you can see the bracket that attaches to the back of the diffuser and bolts up under the license plate bracket, very slick and the supplied bracket was spot on for size.



Once this was all tightened it was time to finish securing the carbon side pieces . They basically bolted to the existing fittings which hold on the factory mouldings as i said earlier BUT each side there was one hole that required a mounting hole to be drilled into the bottom of the fender and i didnt want to do it. SOoooooo the decision was made to epoxy it to the body instead.



I started by scuffing up the clear coat a bit so that the epoxy had somehting to key to :-



I then mixed up some 5 minute epoxy glue and spread it on the carbon piece and pressed it up against the body , this showed me where excess was and what area needed more so i redistributed the glue with a spreader to cover about an area of 6 inches long by 2 inches wide. I kept doing this until i had good glue coverage but no excess was squeezing between the carbon and the body . This also stops water and crap gettin trapped between the carbon and the body.

To hold it in place while it dried i used packing tape along the joint length. It has enough adhesion to hold it in place until cured.



And the drivers side was a repeat of the passenger side



Although the glue was 5 minute epoxy , it actually takes a few hours for a permanent bond to form , and 24 hours to fully cure.

I decided to set out on a drive to allow the pieces to move around and settle into place before it all cured. I'll remove the tape tommorrow.

This is the diffuser from the rear



and from the side



And thanks to C-unit for a great piece , very well made , fitted well and easy to install. I say this because I was quick to bitch about his other parts . This part is highly recommended.

Next job is the adapter for the defi temp sensor :/ - been dreading this lol .

[frankiman]

nice work, i did pretty much the same thing to mount my TS diffuser
made 5 brackets out of home depot aluminum (added 2 at the rear, so the carbon doesn't shear off the plate bolt)

but one thing i noticed (and know from my courses) is that bending 1/8" aluminum bars at a sharp 90deg angle makes the metal alot weaker at that area, with vibrations they might snap at the bend

i know its just a little detail, but its important if you don't want to see bits of carbon flying out the back of the car

what i do is bend them with a larger radius, like such :


(i reused one of the bad brackets that came with the diffuser and messed around with it to get what you see on the far left, hehe)

[cortexx]

So after 6 weeks waiting for JRP to get me a Greddy Rad hose adapter so i can plumb in my defi sensor i gave up and bought a mishimoto kit.

The part used is a 38mm aluminium adapter that comes with 2 useless hose clamps ( they arn't big enough to go around the hose once the fitting is inside.

So i bought some bolt style clamps for extra security.

I drained the coolant out of the radiator drain plug until about 2 litres had drained.

I had a bit of a problem with where to install the adapter in the hose , most people that i could see installed in the horizontal section of the upper rad hose but the mishimoto adapter was a bit too big to install in mine , i had already shortened the hose horizontally to make up for the thicker radiator i was using . So i decided to cut into the vertical section instead , this also made it easy to route the sensor.

So I grabbed by fish filleter knife and cut a section out of the hose , i used this knife because it's so sharp it can slice the hose like butter leaving no rubber bits on the inside .

This is where i cut out the section.



another view of it



A pic of the adapter before fitting .



I tried to squeeze the adapter into the ends of the hose while they were still attached to the rad and engine , but stretching the hose over the end of the adapter was pretty much impossible so i ended up removing the 2 halves and doing it on the bench. I used fluid film on the adapter flange to allow the hose to slip on easier. They were still a pig to fit but perserverence finally won .



The hoses i am using are megan racing hoses . Very good quality , i also bought a cheap set on ebay but they were nasty and i didnt use them because i didnt trust the integrity of the material.

I cranked the clamps tightly on them , the adapter didnt have much of a lip on the flanges so the extra clamping force of the bolt clamps will be much more secure than regular clamps .

I used PTFE tape on the sensor thread



bolted it in and it all ended up looking like this. I really like the bolted clamps , think ill use these on my intercooler and intake pipes . I can't see anything leaking if i use these



Once it was all back together , i started to fill the rad with the coolant i drained . I'll make a point to say here that if you drain any coolant from your system , you MUST bleed the air from the head using a bleed screw that is on the drivers side of the head near the front of the fuel rail. Failiure to do this will almost certainly cause trapped air pockets in the head leading to hot spots and possibly warpage causing head gasket failiure or distortion of the head casting. Once the fluid fills the rad , start the engine with the cap OFF , fill the rad as the level goes down, tighten the bleed screw on the head as soon as fluid is present ( you can usually hear the air whistling out
followed by fluid gurgling out once the air has been evacuated ) , then tighten it . once the rad is full and the thermostat opens the fluid will rise . throw the rest of the fluid int he expansion tank , put the cap back on and take it for a ride. MAKE SURE THE HEATER BLOWS HOT , airlocks in the heater can also occur.

[cortexx]

Damn you made me paranoid now frankie lol .

Actually im in the process of acquiring a small tig welder and once i have it ill tig some side braces on the brackets to make it all that much more stronger. Im actually planning to make up a new suction kit that utilizes hard pipes into an arc box at some point . Have to learn how to tig neatly first though. Malibusts intake pipes and his amazing tig work inspired me to do this

nice work, i did pretty much the same thing to mount my TS diffuser
made 5 brackets out of home depot aluminum (added 2 at the rear, so the carbon doesn't shear off the plate bolt)

but one thing i noticed (and know from my courses) is that bending 1/8" aluminum bars at a sharp 90deg angle makes the metal alot weaker at that area, with vibrations they might snap at the bend

i know its just a little detail, but its important if you don't want to see bits of carbon flying out the back of the car

what i do is bend them with a larger radius, like such :


(i reused one of the bad brackets that came with the diffuser and messed around with it to get what you see on the far left, hehe)

[RWD_GTR]

huge thanks to you cortexx. i built my catch can setup very similar to yours using the parts list you posted

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/gt-r-project-cars/40038-project-mexi-skyrine-ver-2-a-12.html